Fermenter plumbing for 2 zone tanks?

[noodle]

Hi,

I'm working on setting up our loop and wonder what the best way is to plumb the 2 zone tanks. I'm running the supply header and "T"ing off with 2 solenoid valves (one for each zone). What about the return? Should I come off each zone individually up to the return header or can I connect from the lower zone return to the upper zone return and continue up to the return header?

thanks,

e

[BrewinLou]

Better late than never. I would first add two isolation valves after the Ts for supply and return. Then on the supply add one solenoid valve with a bypass loop around it. After that you T off to all the inlets on the tank. I personally add ball valves on to the low side of the jackets in case you need to isolate them to test for leaks.

[dast]

Hi,
I have attached a drawing on how most of our customers pipe their fermenters. If you want more examples let me know and I can send you a PPT.



Dan Strömberg
Cooling Market Segment Manager
__________________________________________________ ___________
GF Piping Systems

Georg Fischer LLC
2882 Dow Avenue, Tustin, CA. 92780 US
Tel: +1 714 368 4196 | Fax: +1 714 368 4197 | Mobile: +1 951 642 2339
Dan.Stromberg@georgfischer.com, www.gfpiping.com
__________________________________________________ ___________
Georg Fischer - Adding Quality to People's Lives

[noodle]

Thanks

Thanks Dan, Doing it this way, you tie the two zones together. what happens if your vlave fails? If they are seperate, at least part of the tank should maintain temp. Please let me know your thoughts.

thanks,

eric

[BrewinLou]

That is why I add a bypass loop around the actuated valve with a ball valve in the loop, so you can bypass the actuated valve in the event of a failure. I would also add isolation valves right below the header Ts, so the whole tank can be isolated from the header.

[dast]

Hi,
A very valid question.
If you have a solenoid valve you would have a problem yes.
With the actuated ball valve you never have a problem. To explain:
The ball valve have a full bore so no dirt or debris will get stuck and hinder the operation. (this is also why you get about 4-5 times more flow trough a ball valve than a solenoid valve, in fact a 1 1/2" solenoid valve gets less flow through than a 3/4" ball valve)
On our valves the valve is the same as we use for our manual valves.
The actuator have manual override (ours at least have this)so if for some reason the actuator fails you can manouver the valve by hand. You can also exchange the actuator without interrupt with the operation.

So if you choose a solenoid valve instead of a ball valve you probably ending up spending more money in the end when you add your isolation valves and by-pass loops.

I hope this answer your questions.

Cheers!

Dan Strömberg
Cooling Market Segment Manager
__________________________________________________ ___________
GF Piping Systems

Georg Fischer LLC
2882 Dow Avenue, Tustin, CA. 92780 US
Tel: +1 714 368 4196 | Fax: +1 714 368 4197 | Mobile: +1 951 642 2339
Dan.Stromberg@georgfischer.com, www.gfpiping.com
__________________________________________________ ___________
Georg Fischer - Adding Quality to People's Lives

[lhall]

I would just add that if you plan on ever doing smaller batches into the fermenter - i.e. 160 bbls into a 200 bbl tank for instance - you will want to have isolation valves for the top side jacket.

[dick murton]

And don't forget to position the temperature probe / probes for different volumes & different cooling ranges