Honey method and quantity

[jipjanneke]

I was pretty sure I'd seen posts on this forum before regarding use of honey, but can't seem to find any.

So, I would be greatful for any advice regarding use of honey in a Robust Porter recipe. Specifically, hints regarding quantity (I will be brewing 12HL) and when to use (end of boil, direct into fermenter etc), and any other tricks...

Thanks.

[tarmadilo]

I've had nice results putting honey in the kettle right at the end of the boil, using the whirlpooling to mix it in. Got some good honey aroma! As for how much, I used something like 10 lbs for every 100 lbs of malt (I think, it's been 8 years since I made that beer!).

Cheers, Tim

[Mad-Brewer]

Honey

I suspect that much of delicate honey notes would be swallowed up by the character of the robust porter, but that aside I use Gambrinus Honey Malt to enhance a honey note in the finished beer. It is cheaper than real honey and more effective at giving the finish you are after.

Steve

[zbrew2k]

Tim & Mad-Brewer are right on with their comments. I used to make a honey weizen that used both honey malt and honey. We added it to the whirlpool and then knocked out on top of it to mix it in. There were no micro-problems either, although the honey yeast never got repitched.

The rate was about 60lbs (one bucket) for every ten barrels. If memory serves correctly the Brix is about 60-65 degrees, so you could use that in your extract calculation to get an approximation of your final gravity after addition.

Depending on what you are looking for in the porter, maybe you want to use some exotic flavored honey, like a darker honey --buckwheat, wild flower (Madhava Wildflower from Colorado). Maybe a fireweed, or even an orange blossom, although like the earlier post said the darker malts will probably cover most of the honey aroma up.

Dont boil the honey, as you will lose all of the characteristics you are looking for.

Let us know how it turns out!

B

[jipjanneke]

Ok, zbrew2k, now I'll have to publicly show my ignorance at 60 degrees brix. All the info I can find suggests a rough rule of thumb is to multiply by 4 to get gravity units (i.e. SG = 1 +(0.004 x Brix)). But that doesn't seem to make sense using your numbers...

Could you please explain a little more how you would account for the contibution of the honey to the starting gravity calculation? I have beersmith and promash, so any explanation could use their tools for reference if required...

Thanks.

[gitchegumee]

I think orange blossom would be too delicate. Great honey for a weizen, but a robust porter is too much. And it's rather expensive. Buckwheat honey is much cheaper, in part because it is so dark. I think the strong flavor might be well matched to a porter. Keep us posted on your results.

[zbrew2k]

Wow, I forgot you were in Oz, you should have some exotic dark honey to work with. Eucalyptus (gum), and maybe some desert flower, or Tasm. Leatherwood (spicy) http://sres.anu.edu.au/associated/fp...rwood/lw2.html

Ok, Brix/Balling/Plato are about the same measurement (they were developed at different temps). The bee keeper usually knows the gravity of his honey. You'll know the gravity of your brew at knock out (end of boil). Then use M1V1+M2V2=MfVf (Mass times volume) and fill in the missing blank (Mf=mass final). My earlier post was incorrect honey is closer to 80 Brix, not 60-65 Brix.

http://valleyvintner.com/Refrac_Hydro/Refract_Hydro.htm

http://byo.com/mrwizard/730.html

http://beercolor.netfirms.com/saccharometer.html

Let us know how it turns out & what kind of honey you use.

B

PS: "leatherwood honey over Weetbix"

PPS: http://www.nelligen.com/honey-cellars/