Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Inline pitching via corny keg

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Inline pitching via corny keg

    Hello,

    I want to pitch my yeast and add oxygen in-line on the way to the FV right after my heat exchange. I will harvest my yeast in a corny keg and keep in cooler over night then on brew day I want to push the yeast out of the corny with O2 and add the O2 right to the wort in line. I so I can moniter the temp I also want a thermometer right after the heat exchange.

    What fitting do I need to accomplish this?

    Thanks
    Last edited by jcmccoy; 06-18-2014, 03:42 PM.

  • #2
    You're welcome!
    Russell Everett
    Co-Founder / Head Brewer
    Bainbridge Island Brewing
    Bainbridge Island, WA

    Comment


    • #3
      Basically how can i go from corny keg to at T connection with my wort flow?

      And how do I go from tri clamp to a corny keg?

      1.5'' Tri camp to 1/4'' MFL
      Last edited by jcmccoy; 06-18-2014, 04:06 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Haha just teasing (originally there was no question asked). That's exactly what we do when rehydrating dry yeast.

        Put on your racking arm or fermenter drain, depending on how you want to fill it:

        - Right Angle Elbow
        - Sight Glass
        - T with a valve on the off-shoot

        Get yourself a couple of these: http://www.gwkent.com/beer-nut.html That's a standard beer nut, like you'd use to attach a line to a keg, on a TC fitting.
        Make a jumper line that is female beer nut on one end, female flare fitting on the other.
        Get a threaded stainless corny liquid side fitting for your keg.
        You can now go from corny to tri-clamp!

        Yeast goes in corny.
        Jumper line goes from corny to the valve on the offshoot of your T.
        Co2 to push yeast out of corny inline while you do your transfer. Easy peasy.
        Russell Everett
        Co-Founder / Head Brewer
        Bainbridge Island Brewing
        Bainbridge Island, WA

        Comment


        • #5
          Ahhhh Thanks! I get it now! female flare can connect to the beer nut to make it in to tri clamp!

          Comment


          • #6
            Use CO2, not oxygen to push the yeast! Pure oxygen will kill any yeast it contacts, and will not be added to your wort until the yeast is gone, and then, will not dissolve properly. Use a stone inline to add oxygen, and a good oxygen-calibrated flow meter to keep track of your dosing.
            Timm Turrentine

            Brewerywright,
            Terminal Gravity Brewing,
            Enterprise. Oregon.

            Comment


            • #7
              change of plans

              So our investors ended up buying a 4'' carbonation stone and they want me to add oxygen in to FV. Can someone direct me to a flow meter I can get to monitor how much O2 i'm adding?

              I will have to pitch directly into the FV then correct? At the brewery I'v only seen in-line pitching can someone tell me the process if pitching from a keg directly into the FV?

              Comment


              • #8
                Talk to your gas supplier about a flowmeter. The most important thing is that it be made for oxygen, not any other gas. We oxygenate in-line, so I'm not sure what range you'd need for oxygenating in the FV, but ours is 0-20 cfm(? l/m?).
                Timm Turrentine

                Brewerywright,
                Terminal Gravity Brewing,
                Enterprise. Oregon.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by jcmccoy View Post
                  So our investors ended up buying a 4'' carbonation stone and they want me to add oxygen in to FV. Can someone direct me to a flow meter I can get to monitor how much O2 i'm adding?

                  I will have to pitch directly into the FV then correct? At the brewery I'v only seen in-line pitching can someone tell me the process if pitching from a keg directly into the FV?
                  Bah, stuff and nonsense.

                  Heat-X out, to (presumably) a length of TC pipe with a thermometer in it, to a TC T with the carb stone stuck in it, to a sight glass, to a valve. O2 inline, pitch inline.
                  Russell Everett
                  Co-Founder / Head Brewer
                  Bainbridge Island Brewing
                  Bainbridge Island, WA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ok that's what I'll do.

                    So get a T


                    Sight glass
                    In-line sight glass with 4 bolts for larger viewing area, with tri-clamp connections. Made of 304 stainless steel with pyrex glass.


                    Into the stone I have
                    A small carbonation stone made of 316L sintered stainless steel.  The pores are 2.0 microns.  The tank connection is 1.5” TC.  The gas connection end is ¼” Female NPT threads.  When carbonating a tank place the carbonation stone as low as possible in the tank to get the best results.  Small carb stones will take longer to carbonate a tank than a longer carbonation stone will, but it will still get the job done.  The carb stones are also used to aerate wort in order to achieve a healthy fermentation.  For aeration of wort the carb stone is generally placed in line right after exiting the heat exchanger on the way to the fermenter.  When carbonating a tank this small sized carb stone is recommended for small tanks of 3 barrels or less.  Use care when handling and cleaning sintered stainless steel carbonation stones so you don’t plug up the pores.  Never use a brush to clean a carb stone.  Best practice is to immerse in an ultrasonic bath for cleaning.


                    Then its 1/4'' female NPT out the carb stone. So I should get a male ball vale and female hose barb and i'm set?

                    EDIT: Should I put a valve before the sight glass? or a check valve after the stone? does the check valve need to be stainless?

                    Thanks
                    Last edited by jcmccoy; 06-24-2014, 11:53 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'll post a photo soon as I get in today.
                      Russell Everett
                      Co-Founder / Head Brewer
                      Bainbridge Island Brewing
                      Bainbridge Island, WA

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Click image for larger version

Name:	2014-06-25 10.34.43.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	95.9 KB
ID:	190439

                        So that's our current setup.

                        * Heat-X goes out to pipe with a thermometer.
                        * T with the carb stone and a spool in there as a spacer. In the past we've run it where the T connects on the middle part, with the stone run through the length of the T from one end, so wort comes in, makes a right turn, and goes out the other. We've been doing it this way since it makes the valve easier to get to.
                        * Stainless ball valve on the carb stone, and we use air quick disconnects throughout, so there's a stainless QD barb there. No check valve, that way when we flush the HX with 190 degree HLT water at the start of a brewday we can run hot water through the stone and out that barb to sani it with heat.
                        * Sight glass so we can see what's going on
                        * Valve
                        Russell Everett
                        Co-Founder / Head Brewer
                        Bainbridge Island Brewing
                        Bainbridge Island, WA

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks!

                          Where did you get those quick disconnects?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The stainless barbs? Wanna say Grainger?

                            You can use chrome-plated brass ones in a pinch but we found PAA will eat them in no time. The stainless barbs are a couple bucks each but the female stainless quick disconnects are like $50 each.
                            Russell Everett
                            Co-Founder / Head Brewer
                            Bainbridge Island Brewing
                            Bainbridge Island, WA

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Bainbridge View Post
                              Get yourself a couple of these: http://www.gwkent.com/beer-nut.html That's a standard beer nut, like you'd use to attach a line to a keg, on a TC fitting.
                              Hey Russell -- the link from GW Kent says "Tri-clamp 1.5" connection to a beer dispensing line connection. Made of 304 stainless steel for connecting serving tank to beer line." I'm just now getting ready to dispense from our 7bbl brites in the WI cooler and am wondering if I'm missing something on the bev out fitting set up. I am using a 1.5" TC to 3/8" barb out of the serving tank,




                              to an in-line beer disconnect,



                              to the 3/8" beer line to the tap. The system is not balanced yet, but before I start adjusting anything I am wondering what the most common setup is for the connection from the walk-in brite to the beer line.

                              Thanks -- Dave
                              Dave Cowie
                              Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Company
                              Nevada City, CA

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X