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  • Biofine Issues

    We currently use Biofine is a few recipes two of which are heavily dry hopped IPAs. We use the same amount of Biofine/process in both however one of them clears within a two days and the other doesn't clear at all. The difference is that the one that doesn't clear is just a single malt single hop recipe and the other that does clear has a more complex grain bill. We have tried different dosing levels and the the SMaSH always stays cloudy and doesn't clear and the other always clears perfectly. Looking for any advice on why the SMaSH would not be clearing.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Permanent haze is very often attributable to protein-polyphenol complex material. These can be very stable so finings isn't effective against them once they've formed.

    It would be worth carrying out some forced haze tests (Chapon, chill test, etc.) to see how the haze reacts to cold temperatures. Generally these complexes become less soluble at lower temperatures, so haze increases and will - to an extent - diminish if the sample is then warmed again.

    It may be that the single malt has a high level of haze-sensitive proteins - higher than the mixed grain beer that fines ok - so in that case it would be worth looking at your copper finings regime to try to remove some of the problematic material earlier.

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    • #3
      Are you using different yeasts for these beers? Some yeasts simply don't fine as well, or may need different finings rates.

      If using the same yeast, try using kettle finings and auxiliary finings as well as biofine. All of these need to be optimised individually, so you optimise the kettle finings first, then the auxiliary and isinglass using the wort kettle fined beer.

      If this doesn't work, then you may need to consider, if your equipment allows, a proteolytic stand at 50 to 52 deg C.

      If the worst comes to the worst, change the malt to a more highly modified product.
      dick

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      • #4
        We are using the same yeast and same base malt in each and crash to same temp (35/36C).

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        • #5
          What are the mash and kettle pHs of the respective beers? If you're off of the iso-electric points of the proteins, you'll have a much more difficult time getting them to drop.

          My estimation (and I could be way off here) is that the pH of the SMaSH recipe is higher in the mash tun, which in turn leads to higher kettle pH, which provides less effective coagulation of proteins and fewer protein-polyphenol reactions at the surface of the boil.

          One other thing that comes to mind is that, when we were having consistent haze issues with our dry hopped beers, we increased the boil intensity to aid in precipitation. Just as a side note.

          Cheers,
          Bill

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