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  • Brew area wall advice

    Finally closed in on a location and now putting together all of the work we'll need to do to the building.

    The wall where the kettles will be located is brick/concrete with metal studs in front of it (landlord was planning on drywalling everything until we came along).

    Question is can we rip out the studs and use the brick wall with some sort of paint/epoxy, or would it be best to keep the studs and go greenboard/RFP? Picture is the wall in question.

    Thanks!

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Your architect and engineer will determine if the wall is properly fire rated to code.
    If not, you may need to add mold resistant sheetrock and top with FRP board. Don't forget to install a water proof coping to floor to wall
    joint.
    It mey cost just as much to tear the metal studs out as it would be to add the sheetrock and FRP.
    Todd G Hicks
    BeerDenizen Brewing Services

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    • #3
      Stud wall isnt load bearing. Removal is up to you at end of the day. The block wall is fine for fire rating, assuming its 1 hour requirement. If 2 hour is required that might trigger additional materials, i dont recall exactly.

      Since you can remove the studs yourself it might be cheaper to remove them, FRP the wall, then anchor your MEP into the wall with unistrut set offs as typically done. Otherwise its likely you gotta hang densglass, fire tape and fire caulk it all, then you still have to install the FRP, and the anchors and unistrut to hold your MEP.

      A screw gun and an angle grinder to cut anchors/bolts is all youd need to rip out studs.

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      • #4
        Thanks for the replies. Does it matter that we'll be doing full electric in regards to the fire code?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ThewBrewing View Post
          Finally closed in on a location and now putting together all of the work we'll need to do to the building.

          The wall where the kettles will be located is brick/concrete with metal studs in front of it (landlord was planning on drywalling everything until we came along).

          Question is can we rip out the studs and use the brick wall with some sort of paint/epoxy, or would it be best to keep the studs and go greenboard/RFP? Picture is the wall in question.

          Thanks!

          [ATTACH]47262[/ATTACH]


          Give me a call there's plenty of options. You could plywood the bottom and fiberglass it over the studs we have done this for many breweries. 541-510-1080
          Chris Klein
          Cell 541-510-1080
          Office (503) 769-6823
          WWW.CASCADEFLOORS.COM
          chris@cascadefloors.com

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          • #6
            Fire code is building/city dependant.
            Talk to your fire marshal

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            • #7
              Originally posted by ThewBrewing View Post
              Thanks for the replies. Does it matter that we'll be doing full electric in regards to the fire code?
              Fire codes aside (be sure to check as others have recommended), I think it would be much easier to install the electrical in the metal stud wall. And you can go with flush mounted boxes, which would be much cleaner and easier than surface mounted electrical on the block wall. Then use greenboard and FRP as others have recommended. But if you're going to hang anything heavy on the wall, then perhaps the block wall would be better, or else add framing as necessary to that location.

              Edit: Is that concrete/brick wall actually unreinforced masonry? Are you in a seismic zone? Better check to make sure there aren't any "extra" requirements.

              Regards,
              Mike Sharp
              Last edited by rdcpro; 05-01-2017, 01:19 PM.

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              • #8
                Thanks everyone for the great advice.

                Based on the advice here and some reading on wet environments, I'm thinking we'll go with cement board and RFP on top of the existing studs (as permitted by fire code).

                The opposite wall is currently painted cinder block/no studs. That side will be where we put the tanks so electrical requirements should be pretty low over there (just the 24v for the valves) so that seems like it'd be feasible to just leave that as is, unless the electrician or fire marshal say otherwise.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by rdcpro View Post
                  Edit: Is that concrete/brick wall actually unreinforced masonry? Are you in a seismic zone? Better check to make sure there aren't any "extra" requirements.

                  Regards,
                  Mike Sharp
                  Don't know the answer on the masonry. We're not in a seismic zone.

                  Only thing that we might hang on the wall would be the RO system, but that's not currently how we have it planned.

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                  • #10
                    Electric system

                    Originally posted by ThewBrewing View Post
                    Thanks for the replies. Does it matter that we'll be doing full electric in regards to the fire code?
                    If you are all electric you probly will only be asked for 1 hour fire ratings. Sometimes youll get 2hour if you are near a property line or in F1-2 industrial use areas. Generally the lack of open flame lowers the risk a lot. Is building sprinklered? That matters too.

                    As noted by others, check with fire marshal. Some cities have a program where you can show preliminary drawings and ask questions about bldg and fire codes, sometimes for a small fee. Might be worth it if architect or designer isnt sure what fire/bldg will require. Even if there isnt a program, just take some basic drawing and photos and ask. Worst case they make you submit full plans, but generally they are pretty helpful as they want everything up to code.

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