Cant get burner to fire on kettle

[chaseale]

I'm having a hard time getting my ecnomite burner to fire on my 15bbl JVNW kettle. It uses the blue Honeywell controler, which I think is the source of my problem. When I turn the kettle on, the blower starts, the pilot lights, it tries to light the burner, but wont. From whatI can tell, the two solenoids that allow gas to flow to the main burner aren't getting power, no gas will flow for it to fire. Anyone else have these issues? Advice? The kettle is from 94.

Cheers!
Chase

[GlacierBrewing]

I'm having a hard time getting my ecnomite burner to fire on my 15bbl JVNW kettle. It uses the blue Honeywell controler, which I think is the source of my problem. When I turn the kettle on, the blower starts, the pilot lights, it tries to light the burner, but wont. From whatI can tell, the two solenoids that allow gas to flow to the main burner aren't getting power, no gas will flow for it to fire. Anyone else have these issues? Advice? The kettle is from 94.

Cheers!
Chase

Hi Chase,
I had a similar issue with my gas-fired Ajax boiler, also using a Honeywell controller (S8610M Continuous Retry). My boiler would send a charge down the electronic ignition line and it would spark in front of the pilot. The pilot would light but the flame sensor on the pilot light was acting like it wasn't communicating with the Honeywell controller, not telling it that we did in fact have flame. Therefore, the main gas valve would not open and the burner bed would not light. After A LOT of troubleshooting, the solution was to replace the Honeywell controller (pretty simple install). If this is the original controller from 94, I would not be surprised that it has died.
Are your gas solenoids getting wet? Some of these units will shut down if they get moist.
Does your system have a flame sensor on it? It usually is right at the pilot light. Try activating the ignition sequence and manually lighting the flame sensor. See if you can "hot wire" the burner to light. If so, I would think the issue lies in the sensor or the controller.
Luck to ya'.
Prost!
Dave

[chaseale]

Hi Chase,
I had a similar issue with my gas-fired Ajax boiler, also using a Honeywell controller (S8610M Continuous Retry). My boiler would send a charge down the electronic ignition line and it would spark in front of the pilot. The pilot would light but the flame sensor on the pilot light was acting like it wasn't communicating with the Honeywell controller, not telling it that we did in fact have flame. Therefore, the main gas valve would not open and the burner bed would not light. After A LOT of troubleshooting, the solution was to replace the Honeywell controller (pretty simple install). If this is the original controller from 94, I would not be surprised that it has died.
Are your gas solenoids getting wet? Some of these units will shut down if they get moist.
Does your system have a flame sensor on it? It usually is right at the pilot light. Try activating the ignition sequence and manually lighting the flame sensor. See if you can "hot wire" the burner to light. If so, I would think the issue lies in the sensor or the controller.
Luck to ya'.
Prost!
Dave

That sounds pretty dead on with my problem. This is a new system for us so I don't think water is the issue as no water has ever been near it.

Thanks!
Chase

[sbradt]

It is also a possibility that the flame rod has picked up a little corrosion or soot that's throwing off the reading. It's amazing how little it can take. You can try cleaning off the flame rod with the finest sandpaper (crocus cloth) you can get and also check/clean any connections on the rod or the wire that goes from the rod to the honeywell. They measure in milliamps and it doesn't take much interference to block the signal.

[kokahuna]

When you say that it is a new system for you, do you mean that you are bringing it online? Or, has it been working for you already and stopped?

If it is the former, it might just be a wiring issue. I bought my system used and had to hook it all up myself when we moved it. I got 2 littles wires crossed, and it kept the burner from igniting.

If it is the latter, then you might want to find your closest certified honeywell tech. They can take the cover off your controller and put their own handy-dandy cover on it which will run a diagnostic for them. It will tell them exactly where to look for the problem. When we had the same issue as yours, it was a burnt solonoid coil not opening.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

[chaseale]

When you say that it is a new system for you, do you mean that you are bringing it online? Or, has it been working for you already and stopped?

If it is the former, it might just be a wiring issue. I bought my system used and had to hook it all up myself when we moved it. I got 2 littles wires crossed, and it kept the burner from igniting.

If it is the latter, then you might want to find your closest certified honeywell tech. They can take the cover off your controller and put their own handy-dandy cover on it which will run a diagnostic for them. It will tell them exactly where to look for the problem. When we had the same issue as yours, it was a burnt solonoid coil not opening.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

We are just now brining it online.

[triple]

We recenty commisioned an new kettle with 2 400,000 BTU burners.

Check the voltage through the solenoids and make sure they are getting power. The new High and Low pressure valves for burners need to be functioning for safety. Also, the gas valves have a POC (Point of Closure) that needs to be true to allow gas to flow.
If you use a flame rod. Make sure the panel is grounded to the burner and keep the ignition wire away from the power wires to the Blue Honeywell controller. The ignition is 10,000 volts and can cause interference with the signals to the controller if they are too close.

If the burner lights under low fire and drops out at high fire or fails to light the pilot at low fire, I found that opening the ventury on the burner so that it is not closed at low fire fixed our issues here. SOme burners are ca[pable of firing antwhere between low and high fire range.
The Honeywell control is time based and allows ony a few seconds before failure if a flame is not detected. SO, the time it takes to get gas to the ignition needs to be short. Opening the ventury shortens the time it takes for the valve(s) to open and the ignition to start.

[triple]

I'm having a hard time getting my ecnomite burner to fire on my 15bbl JVNW kettle. It uses the blue Honeywell controler, which I think is the source of my problem. When I turn the kettle on, the blower starts, the pilot lights, it tries to light the burner, but wont. From whatI can tell, the two solenoids that allow gas to flow to the main burner aren't getting power, no gas will flow for it to fire. Anyone else have these issues? Advice? The kettle is from 94.

Cheers!
Chase

I am interested in what you found to get your gas burner working?