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  • In-Line Yeast Pitching

    Trying to figure out a more sanitary method to pitch/repitch our yeast. Currently we are dumping through the manway, but I feel this is a huge infection risk as the tank has already been sanitized just to be reopened to outside influences. I've seen other breweries use Cornelius Kegs for pitching but I'm not overly sure what collection of connections are used to make this work. This is for a 25 BBL system so a decent amount of yeast is typically needed per batch (about 2.5lb Dry, or 6-7 gallons slurry).

    If there are other methods I just haven't come across that work even better those could be really helpful too.

  • #2
    The problem with any in-line pitching system is keeping the mains, dosing pump or top pressure gas supply clean and completely sterile, which might well prove harder than simple manhandling of containers.

    I've not tried it or heard of it being done, but you could crop into sterile kegs, using a bit of antifoam if necessary to get a decent yeast consistency, store the kegs in a cold room, and then use sterile gas to pressure to blow into the wort main, or into the FV via a suitably sized sample tap or similar.

    I'll be interested to hear others views.
    dick

    Comment


    • #3
      A corny keg connection is a simple set of fittings (one for gas, one for liquid) to the top that then goes to a hose, which you could then connect to a tri-clamp fitting into the vessel, and then connect the other to a small CO2 bottle to push it out.

      The most common size is 5 gal, but 10 and 15 gal sizes are also available. The biggest downside would be the number of seals you have to worry about to maintain pressure, but the advantage is that the upper lid allows you to make sure it's thoroughly clean inside.
      Kevin Shertz
      Chester River Brewing Company
      Chestertown, MD

      Comment


      • #4
        Yeast Harvest/Pitching

        I harvest yeast into a few of these:

        Our ½ barrel keg is perfect for storing enough yeast for pitching into a 10 barrel batch of beer. Made from a brand new 15.5 gallon stainless steel keg without a Sankey spear in it. The top has a 4” TC ferrule making it easy to fill and clean. The side of the keg has a 1-1/2” TC ferrule welded as close to the bottom as possible. All welds are sanitary and polished. Included is a 4” by 1-1/2” TC end cap reducer and a 4” TC clamp and a 4” EPDM gasket. Great for yeast storage, wine for barrel topping and also for storage of almost anything. The solid stainless steel construction makes this a versatile and almost indestructible container. Certainly safer and easier to move around than a glass carboy.


        Then I store in my cold room until I need them (usually a day or two). On brew days, I pull them from the cooler and let them warm up. I also shake them up and vent any CO2. I'll do a yeast cell count as I'm brewing then hook up the yeast keg to my transfer hoses and push with CO2 during the transfer. I have the keg on a scale and I'm pitching by weight.

        What Dick says is interesting. Now I'm going to look into somehow fitting a filter on my CO2 hose.


        Cheers,
        Mike

        Comment


        • #5
          Don't forget that it is not only the filter that needs to be sterile, but the hose and fittings downstream of it. Assuming you are using commercially purchased gas, this should be sterile or virtually sterile already, and you may get away without a filter providing you sterilise the hose internal surfaces and all connecting surfaces. I have come across a fair number of people who change filter cartridges but don't sterilise the rest of the system, and then they wonder why they still get infection.
          dick

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by dick murton View Post
            The problem with any in-line pitching system is keeping the mains, dosing pump or top pressure gas supply clean and completely sterile, which might well prove harder than simple manhandling of containers.

            I've not tried it or heard of it being done, but you could crop into sterile kegs, using a bit of antifoam if necessary to get a decent yeast consistency, store the kegs in a cold room, and then use sterile gas to pressure to blow into the wort main, or into the FV via a suitably sized sample tap or similar.
            That is the plan as of now, we found a few 5/8" barb to triclover we can use on the beer out of the Corny and we'll push it through the racking port using CO2 pressure after a barrel or so has been added to the FV.

            Originally posted by MPKill View Post
            I harvest yeast into a few of these:

            Our ½ barrel keg is perfect for storing enough yeast for pitching into a 10 barrel batch of beer. Made from a brand new 15.5 gallon stainless steel keg without a Sankey spear in it. The top has a 4” TC ferrule making it easy to fill and clean. The side of the keg has a 1-1/2” TC ferrule welded as close to the bottom as possible. All welds are sanitary and polished. Included is a 4” by 1-1/2” TC end cap reducer and a 4” TC clamp and a 4” EPDM gasket. Great for yeast storage, wine for barrel topping and also for storage of almost anything. The solid stainless steel construction makes this a versatile and almost indestructible container. Certainly safer and easier to move around than a glass carboy.


            Then I store in my cold room until I need them (usually a day or two). On brew days, I pull them from the cooler and let them warm up. I also shake them up and vent any CO2. I'll do a yeast cell count as I'm brewing then hook up the yeast keg to my transfer hoses and push with CO2 during the transfer. I have the keg on a scale and I'm pitching by weight.
            That will probably be one of our first purchases, definitely would like to be able to use all Tri-Clover fittings to pitch inline. Unfortunately its an extra expense can't really take on at the moment so we'll have to stick with Cornys since we have them available.


            Originally posted by dick murton View Post
            Don't forget that it is not only the filter that needs to be sterile, but the hose and fittings downstream of it. Assuming you are using commercially purchased gas, this should be sterile or virtually sterile already, and you may get away without a filter providing you sterilise the hose internal surfaces and all connecting surfaces. I have come across a fair number of people who change filter cartridges but don't sterilise the rest of the system, and then they wonder why they still get infection.
            Was planning on using PAA to sanitize the hoses ahead of time. Using Welding Grade Oxygen and Commercial CO2, each should be sterile and wasn't figuring to need to filter them ahead of time.

            Comment


            • #7
              It's really not that complicated.

              Put a tri-clamp T inline so that you go:

              hose from HeatX -> T with a TC valve on the right angle side -> sight glass -> 90 degree pipe (optional) -> valve on racking arm.

              Hook that assembly up when you sani the tank, so it's all sanitized. As you pump from the HeatX into the tank find a point where you're happy the temperature is stable (we wait until wort is high enough to come out the sample port for an OG reading) Sanitize a small hose (3/8" or 1/2") with a TC adapter on one end and another on the other (or a beer nut, corny fitting, etc). Hook it up from the valve on the inline T to your brink's Out (converted keg, standard sanke, corny keg, etc.) Open valve on T and use co2 to push yeast inline. No fuss, minor muss.

              If you're pitching new yeast, you can use a sanitized corny to rehydrate dry yeast or just put your liquid pitch in there and shoot it on in. As mentioned you can also put your brink on a scale and push in a certain amount by weight.
              Russell Everett
              Co-Founder / Head Brewer
              Bainbridge Island Brewing
              Bainbridge Island, WA

              Comment


              • #8
                The easiest way if possible...

                I have recently eliminated storing the yeast in any container other than the fermenter. I just figured where my desired volume comes up to in the cone so I would know how much to pitch. When it comes time to pitch, I simply connect a hose from the bottom of the yeast supplying tank to the sanitized fermenter waiting for wort. Flow slowly into the bottom port on the tank until you've reached the desired volume (I just peak in through the manway and view with a flashlight). When you have the pitch finished just give the manway a quick ethanol spray and button up the fermenter until KO. I have been able to get many more generations out of a lab pitch than in the past thanks to this method. The yeast love it and there is much less to clean up and keep sanitary.
                Cheers
                Jay Stoyanoff
                Brewmaster
                Plattsburgh Brewing Co.
                Plattsburgh, NY

                Comment


                • #9
                  Cone to Cone

                  Monkeybrewer is correct.
                  With just one hose and follow up yeast counts, a cone to cone method is simple and sanitary. no extra fittings to worry about. This is a great method if you have continuous batches, and can pull off of just finished/crashed ferments. The yeast brink from GW is a good alternative if you have to store for 1 to 2 days.

                  Lance
                  Rebel Malting Co.
                  Reno, Nevada USA

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Get the brink

                    I'm with MPKill/Mike as a big fan of the GW Kent yeast brink.

                    I harvest enough yeast every Monday for the whole week, two or three pitchings depending on the schedule. (10BBL brewhouse - 40-60BBL weekly production.) The whole brink goes in the cold room with a blowoff hose hooked to a CO2 fitting on top to a bucket of sanitizer to keep the pressure from blowing the thing up. I keep a 3 foot length of 1 1/2" brewer's hose attached to the brink with a valve on the end. This hose is cleaned and sanitized as a unit along with the brink.

                    I will occasionally do a cone to cone pitch, but only if I have to. It's way easier, but I prefer to spend a few extra minutes and pitch a known quantity by weight. Think of the math: V=1/3*pi*R squared*H. Transferring yeast into a cone visually can be off by quite a bit if your level is just an inch or two off.

                    As far as using corny kegs, I just can't get comfortable pushing the yeast through a spring loaded poppet valve. I do not have confidence in any cleaning regime to properly take care of all those nooks and crannies. I'm way more comfortable using sanitary butterfly valves. Also, my yeast slurry is so thick that I think I'd have issues trying to force it through a poppet and a 1/4 inch hose. Just the time saved by using the Kent brink will eventually make it pay for itself.

                    $500 of equipment (brink + hose + valves) is not that much to spend in the long run. Consider how much you are saving vs a new prop each time.

                    -Mike

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MikeS View Post
                      I'm with MPKill/Mike as a big fan of the GW Kent yeast brink.

                      I harvest enough yeast every Monday for the whole week, two or three pitchings depending on the schedule. (10BBL brewhouse - 40-60BBL weekly production.) The whole brink goes in the cold room with a blowoff hose hooked to a CO2 fitting on top to a bucket of sanitizer to keep the pressure from blowing the thing up. I keep a 3 foot length of 1 1/2" brewer's hose attached to the brink with a valve on the end. This hose is cleaned and sanitized as a unit along with the brink.

                      I will occasionally do a cone to cone pitch, but only if I have to. It's way easier, but I prefer to spend a few extra minutes and pitch a known quantity by weight. Think of the math: V=1/3*pi*R squared*H. Transferring yeast into a cone visually can be off by quite a bit if your level is just an inch or two off.

                      As far as using corny kegs, I just can't get comfortable pushing the yeast through a spring loaded poppet valve. I do not have confidence in any cleaning regime to properly take care of all those nooks and crannies. I'm way more comfortable using sanitary butterfly valves. Also, my yeast slurry is so thick that I think I'd have issues trying to force it through a poppet and a 1/4 inch hose. Just the time saved by using the Kent brink will eventually make it pay for itself.

                      $500 of equipment (brink + hose + valves) is not that much to spend in the long run. Consider how much you are saving vs a new prop each time.

                      -Mike
                      Again, its probably going to be our first big purchase once the first checks start coming in, but unfortunately in the last few weeks of a 5 month long brewery build cash to spend on a bring just isn't there, especially with large lag times between our first set of batches and who knows when our second will be. Look at it on the bright side, we're using 3/8" inch tubing, thats a whopping 50% bigger than 1/4"!

                      Biggest issue with cone to cone is our lack of any sight gauges on the fermenters, so I'd have to go into it fully blind. Was going to go with the Corny method (using 2 Cornys) and weighing it out, and alternate between sending wort into thin the yeast and CO2 pushing the yeast back into the FV.

                      The GW Kent Brink should be big enough for 2 25 BBL batches which is our planned weekly production until we start filling these 50 BBL tanks.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have a GW brink here, and with some pre-boiled/antifoam/cooled yeast nutrient I can store yeast in that in a cold room for 3 weeks. I use that in "special" situations where my five fermenters all have different yeasts or previously dry-hopped beer in them. Generally I pitch 8-9 million cells per ml here for an 11 plato beer. I do that by simply going from tank to tank either counting the "dimples" of the glycol jacket on the cone or my racking arm pointed downwards so I can more easily determine the yeast level. I went 10 years using that method without ever buying new yeast. I am on my third year at our new brewery without buying new yeast. HLP, SDA, and Wild yeast plates are clean every time. I have noticed that the first five or 6 generations produce a little brighter finished beer.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You went ten years cone to cone? So much for the limit on yeast generations huh?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by nohandslance View Post
                            Monkeybrewer is correct.
                            With just one hose and follow up yeast counts, a cone to cone method is simple and sanitary. no extra fittings to worry about. This is a great method if you have continuous batches, and can pull off of just finished/crashed ferments. The yeast brink from GW is a good alternative if you have to store for 1 to 2 days.

                            Lance
                            Rebel Malting Co.
                            Reno, Nevada USA
                            While I agree there are many satisfactory and safe methods for transferring yeast, I personally do not like the extra risk of a tank to tank transfer. If a hose were to break, you could loose two fermenters potentially. You could also risk a new guy (someone other than me, of course) transferring the wrong tank (maybe wrong yeast). I also would worry about scheduling as I would have to pitch with less flexibility. That said, I would certainly use this method without major concern if I had no better alternative.

                            I like to know that my harvested pitch is within my usual cues (weight, volume, cell counts). It not only tells me that the amount that I am about to pitch is adequate for my next batch but also confirms a healthy fermentation of my initial batch. A brink doesn't have to be a GW Kent. Sure it's nice, but I'd just have a local dairy welder throw on a few fitting to a house keg (they often work for beer). Lot cheaper, and customized. Then you can use the "brink" for dry hopping and other things as well.

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                            • #15
                              Has anyone harvested yeast into sanke kegs? I am referring to regular sanke kegs, not the converted type like that GW kent one listed above. I just thought that you can clean and sanitize them with a keg washer, sanitize your coupler, tubing and tri-clover connection to a T and dose inline. Is there any reason why this would not work? Is the sanke connection not sanitary enough?

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