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Glycol System Specs.....

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  • #16
    cooling demand

    are there any rules of thumb for what the glycol flowrate should be in a 4 bbl fermenting vessel? i'm trying to size the glycol recirculating pump for 2-4 4bbl fermenting vessels and a 4 bbl bright beer tank.

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    • #17
      Glycol system questions

      We're going on line with our prochiller glycol system and I have a few general questions -

      1. Both our process and circulation pumps are developing blocks of ice around the impeller housing. Not coincidentally - we are also finding this around any piping inside the chiller that has not been insulated. Is it necessary to insulate the impeller housing? I can't believe that the ice is good for the pumps. Any suggestion for how to insulate?

      2. I'm noticing that one of our fermenters has a spot about 9" square at the back of the tank at the center, in line with the inlet pipe, that gets super cold. Is that normal? What would cause this in a tank that's insulated and clad?

      3. As a rough rule of thumb, how long should it take to cool 10 bbls by 10 degrees F, running glycol at a set temp of app. 25 deg F?

      TIA to all the engineers and HVAC guys.

      David
      David Cohen
      The Dancing Camel Brewing Co. Ltd.

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      • #18
        schedule 40 vs scedule 80

        I'm getting ready to do my glycol piping, and due to budget constraints, I was considering schedule 40. Has anyone used the 40, if so any horror stories? Conversely, anyone had success with the sc40? I'd hate to be replacing this (and my glycol) in a year.

        Thanks,
        Ray
        Ray Sherwood
        Sherwood Brewing Company
        Shelby Township, MI
        586.532.9669
        f.586.532.9337

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        • #19
          Hi Ray,
          It's been a while since I started this post and have investigated several different styles of systems. I've seen several sch. 40 systems that have seen several years of use. The psi is running between 15 and 8 with little or no problems. I've been thinking more and more about switching our whole system (in the future )to a PEX-tubing system for system flexibilty, elimination of right-angle bends (more-linear flow pattern), and reducing glue joints and therefore, eliminating future drip-leaks (it seems glycol can eventually eat away at PVC glue joints). One of the most obvious lessons I can pass on is to isolate and insulate: isolate key points in the system with hand valves and unions (valve before and after solenoids) and wrap EVERY part of the system in insulation to eliminate condensation and mold growth. As always, luck to ya'!
          Dave
          Glacier Brewing Company
          406-883-2595
          info@glacierbrewing.com

          "who said what now?"

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          • #20
            DK,
            I am currently in the process of adding and moving some tanks. During that process, I will be replumbing the old ones, due to the fact that they have begun to leak where the sc40 PVC fittings screw into the tanks. Earlier, you had said something about experimenting with the PEX tubing. Any luck with that?

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            • #21
              Just beware about using ball valves as flow throttling valves (as mentioned in one of the posts above), that they are not designed for this task.

              Eventually, throttling flow with a ball valve will chew out the seat seals around the ball, and then when you actually try to use the ball valve for what it is designed to do (tight shut-off isolation), it will leak.

              Use a gate or butterfly valve instead to throttle flow...

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