
Originally Posted by
Diamond Knot
JBS,
Your condition sounds exactly like what I've seen in starting up our 15 Bbl steam system. I'm probably going to mirror the comments of others but here's what our impression was and what we witnessed:
1.) We had a tight milling of the grain as we were still setting the mill roller gaps. A little too much flour was created.
2.) Dough in was fine. We run filtered water and add minerals mix with water to the foundation water as the grains are coming in.
3.) Mashing was fine.
4.) Re-circ went OK. It took a while to get clearer results and flow slowed considerably.
5.) Lauter stuck very early on, and we had to underlet to float the bed up to set it again. Due to the fine flour nature of a portion of the mash, the grant looked almost like a big pot of miso soup!
6.) We ended up collapsing the bed since we were still gaging the system and ran out of fluid in the bed but still needed more in the kettle. We restarted the sparge on a dry bed and brought a lot of crap over to the kettle.
7.) We skimmed off protiens for days, it seemed, and wer still skimming into the boil.
8.) At whirlpool after boil, we saw "cheeselike" clumps of proteins in the wort that were solid enough to skim out in a rapidly moving whirlpool. Since we were making a light all 2-row pale malt batch for our shakedown, these clumps were yellowish/gray in color. I have never seen these before in our direct fire system.
Just some humble recommendations:
- Check your mill gap and look at your cracked grains up close. You should be getting 1/3 grist, 1/3 husk, and 1/3 flour for max extract. The husks should be whole and not sliced up. Nearly all mash/sparge/extract problems I've seen in our process stem from the mill settings.
- Try and keep the bed wet and suspended at all times. A collapsed bed produces a "hydraulic lock" due to the pressure differentials between the top of the bed, where the water is pressing down, and the underlet, where there is a vaccum created by the draining of the wort. This just makes the problem worse and will shut down the flow through the bed altogether quite quickly and without any fanfare, I might add.
- Run your sparge at the right temps or a snick warmer (170F - 176F). Some will say you're drawing tannins. I've never tasted that in any of our beers, but a cold sparge will lock things up a bit as well. Resist bringing anything cloudy over to the kettle. If you have to, re-set the bed with another re-circ step.
Regards,