Inline pitching via corny keg

[Bainbridge]

Don't see why that setup wouldn't work. The "beer dispensing line connection" just means it's a standard beer nut fitting, like you'd get on a normal sanke tap.

With the barbed TC setup on the lines I suppose you could just TC two of the lines together though to make a line cleaning loop. That'd be super easy.

[BDL]

Hey Russell -- the link from GW Kent says "Tri-clamp 1.5" connection to a beer dispensing line connection. Made of 304 stainless steel for connecting serving tank to beer line." I'm just now getting ready to dispense from our 7bbl brites in the WI cooler and am wondering if I'm missing something on the bev out fitting set up. I am using a 1.5" TC to 3/8" barb out of the serving tank,

http://www.gwkent.com/hose-barb.html

to an in-line beer disconnect,

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/hoses/disconnects/60600_beer_quick_disconnect_female.shtml

to the 3/8" beer line to the tap. The system is not balanced yet, but before I start adjusting anything I am wondering what the most common setup is for the connection from the walk-in brite to the beer line.

Thanks -- Dave

[ATTACH]17523[/ATTACH]

So that's our current setup.

* Heat-X goes out to pipe with a thermometer.
* T with the carb stone and a spool in there as a spacer. In the past we've run it where the T connects on the middle part, with the stone run through the length of the T from one end, so wort comes in, makes a right turn, and goes out the other. We've been doing it this way since it makes the valve easier to get to.
* Stainless ball valve on the carb stone, and we use air quick disconnects throughout, so there's a stainless QD barb there. No check valve, that way when we flush the HX with 190 degree HLT water at the start of a brewday we can run hot water through the stone and out that barb to sani it with heat.
* Sight glass so we can see what's going on
* Valve

My only thought is that you are likely not getting the oxygen to dissolve as efficiently with the carb stone the way it is. We have our setup the same , but the way you say you used to have it, where the wort turns ninety degrees. The thinking being that this allows for the carb stone I release smaller bubbles of gas into the liquid as intended versus more of a burping like I suspect you get that way, as the majority of the stone is removed from wort flow.

We have also done some experimentation with contact time after carb stone and DO post chill. We have found that the longer lines to the FV do impact finish DO all other things being equal. So it should be more efficient for you to oxygenate in line rather than in tank.

Also to pitch yeast inline simply add another T with a butterfly valve after the sight glass, so you can connect to the wort stream mid chill and pitch from there. This is how we've always done it, just easier to maneuver 1/2bbl brinks to one location.

[BugHunter]

I'll be the first to admit, I cringed when I read your request to know a good method to transfer your yeast from corny to fermenter using pure O2. Pure oxygen is highly corrosive to microbes and all you would be accomplishing using it as a pressure transfer medium is to kill off a portion of your yeast. You would be better advised to add your oxygen in-line as you transfer from your kettle to the fermenter and then using CO2 to transfer your yeast.

We actually use this sort of setup, and we transfer our yeast into our 40bbl fermenters using a standard ball-lock corny with a 1" sanitary tri-clamp fitting welded to the side. The added fitting allows us to alcohol flame sterilize all of our fitting connections between keg and fermenter and ensure a clean pitch, and I highly recommend it to anyone using a corny.

[Greenbushguy]

http://www.gwkent.com/micro-oxygenation-carbonation-stone-assembly-1.html

We use this inline to oxygenate the wort and it works great! We previously had a similar T and pico stone setup but it just wasn't very effective. We found that out once we got our dissolved oxygen meter and started taking measurements inline. Now we pump oxygen in at .75 l/m per our oxygen calibrated flow meter (http://www.mcmaster.com/#oxygen-flowmeters/=u7akx6) part# 3505K44 and we're getting 12 -14 ppm in our wort on the way to the fermenter. Ferments wake up quickly and ferment out in about 6 days now!

PS Make sure you add a check valve to the assembly or you may end up with beer blowing back into your oxygen lines.

[RockyMtnBrew]

Used this too. Works awesome. Ask for a LPM gauge from your O2 supplier. Then you can keep your flow rate to the fermenter, wort temp and LPMs consistent batch to batch. If youre lucky enough to have a DO meter you can check at the tank. If not, trial and error.

http://www.gwkent.com/micro-oxygenat...ssembly-1.html

We use this inline to oxygenate the wort and it works great! We previously had a similar T and pico stone setup but it just wasn't very effective. We found that out once we got our dissolved oxygen meter and started taking measurements inline. Now we pump oxygen in at .75 l/m per our oxygen calibrated flow meter (http://www.mcmaster.com/#oxygen-flowmeters/=u7akx6) part# 3505K44 and we're getting 12 -14 ppm in our wort on the way to the fermenter. Ferments wake up quickly and ferment out in about 6 days now!

PS Make sure you add a check valve to the assembly or you may end up with beer blowing back into your oxygen lines.

[lochielbrewing]

I found the holy grail in medical O2 equipment... all were in LPM. 0-8. Fixed 50psi regulator at the tank and I use what I need. I was able to factor in cost per O2 in my Ekos Brewmaster to give me more precise cost to make because obviously O2 costs money...

This is how it's done at my brewery...







I had a copper line system installed with several O2 and CO2 drops that I could get 50PSI regulated O2 wherever my fermenters were so I could quick disconnect/connect the O2 flowmeter apparatus at any fermenter without any issue. Same thing for CO2 at 60 PSI from a CO2 750lb bulk tank and using another secondary regulator at the endpoint if I wanted lower than 60 psi.

I use a 5 inch oxygenating stone inline in this set up. I got the stem and stone from Stout Tanks and Kettles. SPOX assembly.

My 2 cents worth.

Cheerio!

Ian Cameron
Owner / Brewer
Lochiel Brewing
Mesa, AZ

Used this too. Works awesome. Ask for a LPM gauge from your O2 supplier. Then you can keep your flow rate to the fermenter, wort temp and LPMs consistent batch to batch. If youre lucky enough to have a DO meter you can check at the tank. If not, trial and error.

[beerme]

This o2 setup is the right idea with the O2 coming in the end of the tee, but if you put it in the brewhouse right after the heat exchanger then you have the length of the hose to mix and dissolve into the wort.

Be aware of the dead leg in the tee, ie the piece where the o2 stone comes in. when wort or cleaning fluids flow through they will not effectively clean the end and can lead to infection problems right where you are most succeptable with freshly chilled unpitched wort. I use a venturi (mazzei.net/venturi_injectors/) which is in line avoiding this, partly because i don't like sintered stones because they are hard to clean effectively with all of the tiny pores. (you really need to clean stones in nitric acid and autoclave to be confident.) With my venturi, i run cleaning fluids through the gas line as well as the wort line (the venturi will pull the cleaning fluid through the gas hoses). I sanitize my hx and wort system by recirculating 80-85C hot water for at least 20 minutes before the first wort of the day which pasteurizes any parts of the system that may have not been accessable to the cleaning solution, ie heat exchanger plates that may be unknowingly fouled.


If you move it to the entry of the tank then it has less time/ distance to dissolve in which will encourage the O2 to bubble through and go straight to the headspace.

Using a gas flowmeter (rotameter) is a nice way to confirm you are putting the correct amount of oxygen in. We got ours from Omega. you can experiment and find the flowrate that works best for you. If you can borrow a dissolved oxygen meter at some point, you could confirm you are putting enough/ not too much in: you want 8-10ppm O2. too much is bad.