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Dry Hopping Slurry Method

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  • #16
    Yes, your enterpretation of the term I used is correct. The most I have done at once is 18#, I suspect you could split a 40# dry hop in two batches and be fine. Shouldn't take more than a couple hours total with most of that time being spent doing something else while waiting for the pellets to break down into the slurry. Maybe 30-45 minutes of hands on time. Not a big deal if you've already got a clean brink and chemicals made up. If you're coming in on a day off just to dry hop it's so much easier to climb a ladder with a bag...

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    • #17
      Block and Bleed

      Attached is a picture of a block and bleed.
      Attached Files

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      • #18
        Awesome - thanks to both posts for the further info and for giving me another term for the brewers vocab quiver!

        Andrew - I agree, climbing a ladder with a bag or bucket is definitely appealing if that is the only task for the day. That being said, I think we will explore the slurry method purely for the experience of it as well as the ability to dry-hop mid-fermentation and potentially avoid a foam volcano out of the hop port!

        Cheers,
        Tom

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        • #19
          We switched to the slurry in yeast brink injection method awhile back to avoid the hazard of climbing up about 18 feet to dump hops in a 50 BBL fermenter. I found little difference in flavor/aroma from this method. It is also simply not a viable option for us during the busy summer season. It can take up to 2 hours with the sani time CO2 purge and especially if the hops clog up at the valve. We are back to dropping hops in the from the top. It may be more dangerous but it only takes maybe 5 or 10 minutes and any of the crew can do it.

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          • #20
            I now have a racking arm for my brink from Deutsche. I'm wondering how well this would work to help empty out in less refill cycles or if it would be a clogged nightmare. I will also switch to a 10' 1" line from brink to block and bleed next time as it's a royal pain trying to maneuver the brink around with a short stiff hose on it.

            Alrighty then. I just tried it with said racking arm from Deutsche and would like to go on record as affirming it was a clogged nightmare. I had to backfill with about 10 lbs of beer, pump out about 12 lbs before it clogged again, then do it again. And again. And again. It took a loooonnnngg time to get it all out. I'll try next time sans the racking arm. Will try to report back any differences I can detect in the finished beer. No question, dry hopping via DH port is easier. But complicated time intensive procedures are fun!

            Dave
            Dave Cowie
            Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Company
            Nevada City, CA

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            • #21
              We switched to the slurry method a while back and found that it produced not only a cleaner beer but also utilized hops much more efficiently. We actually dropped our total dry hop amount to keep the flavor/aroma consistent. It can be a long process, though, with the flushing/soaking/pushing back and forth.

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              • #22
                Sounds like your going to need to SIP a tank add the hops then pure of o2 and rack on top of them. Sucks if you don't have an extra tank but thats what we used to do with our 40bbl tanks when we had to dry hop 40+ pounds through the tiny prv .... its more work but much much easier.... or buy a torpedo

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                • #23
                  I am now a convert to the hop cannon/slurry approach. I get better, quicker hop aroma. And for my IPA which uses wlp007 and gives me diacetyl headaches with the O2 ingress during the traditional DH method, the purge and push slurry method has netted much cleaner results.
                  Dave Cowie
                  Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Company
                  Nevada City, CA

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                  • #24
                    something from the old junk pile...

                    have an old 4" inline hop strainer, removable strainer mesh screen. with some check valves and butterflies i'm wondering if we could turn it into a slurry gun?

                    fill it with water, purge it with co2, add hops, purge some more, etc. then slowly fill with beer to get the slurry.

                    if i put a butterfly on sample port so the valve could be removed, i guess it'd look something like this...?

                    beer-- TC port--- butterfly---check valve--- strainer/slurry gun-- check valve- co2 line.

                    something like a nice 10-15psi blast to shoot the slurry into the tank? maybe a sightglass so you can see when its all gone into tank? i wouldnt think the co2 blast would be a big deal as the slurry just got there. and hitting tank (ours are small 4-5 bbls) around midpoint would probly be decent for mixing.

                    anyone see any drawbacks? my only concern is the check valves being too small to get good flow into tank, or getting clogged up with pellets that hadnt broken down fully.

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by GuyMann View Post
                      Hi All,
                      Starting at a new brewery and I don't have a port on the top of my FV's to dump my dry hop addition into. Is anybody familiar with breaking pellet hops down into a slurry and injecting them into the tank ? I would like to avoid duming the hops into the manway and racking the beer onto them.
                      ROLEC DH90:



                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by barleyfreak View Post
                        Reviving an old thread. Has anyone previously dumping dry hops through a DH port/PRV port on top switched to this method? If so, what improvement have you seen? I am currently just dumping the hops thru the hop port on top. But if this method is better/quicker/less hops to gain the same or better aroma I am interested in trying it out.

                        Dave
                        Hey Dave,

                        I actually just switched to this method using a cleaning keg we have. It's just your standard keg with a 1.5" TC port on the side one inch up from the bottom (a bit cheaper than a yeast brink) . For this process I take a 1" hose with TC fittings on both ends sani it and slap a sani-ed valve on one end, fill it with sani and attach it to the racking arm (point the arm diagonally, kinda torwards the top corner of the tank). While that is sitting I purge the sani-ed keg w/ port with CO2, remove the TC cap and dump the hops in. While the TC port is sitting after being sprayed with sani, blow the sani out of the tube with the valve (clear out the yeast that has settled in the racking arm as well), and sani the valve. Connect valve to TC port. Use a tavern head, hose, and nipple that have been sani-ed (hose connected to the beer in on the sani) to purge it with CO2 a couple of times. That will be your pressurize/purge point. Open the gas in and fill with beer about 3/4ths full. Use the gas to mix up the hops and let sit for 10 min. Purge CO2 and let it mix up one more time while pressurizing. Use that pressure to push hop slurry into the tank. After the keg is empty, close CO2 off and open the other tavern head valve to depressurize. This will suck the beer back into the keg. Do this back and forth untill the beer no longer changes color (so you know you've expelled all of the hop material). Let the CO2 run for about a minute after the last push to fully mix everything and then just close all valves. Disconnect and clean

                        Hope this helps! combining this with dumping the yeast before dry hoping has actually saved us a bit on hops.
                        Cheers
                        -Rob

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