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Direct Fire Kettle & Firebox Exhaust Design

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  • Direct Fire Kettle & Firebox Exhaust Design

    Hoping to get some help on the venting of the kettle and firebox for our direct fire 15bbl system (Economite RE4850A burner). We are trying to avoid putting holes in the roof of the building so our idea was to run the stacks out the side just above the brewhouse. My questions are:

    Anything specific that we need to avoid doing for sure?
    Is there a minimum distance we need to go straight out of the kettle before making a bend?
    Are relatively short horizontal runs ok (5'-6')? Do we need a condensate drain on that run?
    Is it possible to combine both stacks so that there is only one penetration through the wall. My thinking is no but I saw a picture of one done this way somewhere.
    At what point do we need a fan on the kettle exhaust? Most information that I've read says if the run is >20'.
    Do we need an atmospheric damper on the firebox exhaust?

    Any help or further resources anyone can send my way is much appreciated.


    Cheers!
    Justin Stine
    Head Brewer
    The Waterfront Brewery
    Key West, FL

  • #2
    Ask the Engineer

    I am guessing you are in planning still. My best advice is to have both and Architect and MEP Engineers on board. Especially in a historic place like Key West, building codes will be a big (but not impossible) hurdle. There is a lot of code with respect to BTUs, venting material and size. Best not to go it alone.

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    • #3
      We're actually in the end stages of construction at this point. I came into the project late and didn't have anything to do with the design of anything unfortunately. I've never dealt with direct fire systems before, only steam. I'm trying to get some info from any of the contractors but no one down here has any idea about this stuff. Most of my contacts in the industry are all used to steam systems as well. It seems like it should be an easy thing but I've been reading all sorts of stuff about inches of water column, atmospheric dampers and a ton of other stuff so that I'm worried now that we're going to screw it up somehow.
      Justin Stine
      Head Brewer
      The Waterfront Brewery
      Key West, FL

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      • #4
        I do know you will need a barometric damper located a particular distance from the firebox. Most of this relies on local code, so the best answer is really to consult with an HVAC company. They are the ones who are licensed and have the knowledge of the codes and what needs to be done.

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        • #5
          direct fire flue instructions

          This might help you out. Send me your email in PM and I'll send the entire cut sheet.
          Cheers,
          Tim

          1. All Direct Fire Brew Kettles
          require the use of an approved exhaust gas vent stack
          rated at 1000 degrees F or higher. Premier Stainless
          recommends using a Class A double-walled, insulated
          stack (or better). Use of any other type of stack with
          a lower temperature rating is NOT recommended by
          Premier Stainless Systems. For an example and
          detailed information please visit the following website:
          <http://www.mcmaster.com/#chimney-vents/=i6fqw2>
          2. Refer to chimney gas vent manufacturer's
          information for detailed installation instructions.
          3. Terminate the chimney vent stack with a rain cap
          except in those locations where high winds may
          necessitate a Breidert type cap.
          4. CAUTION: A horizontal stack run must not exceed
          75% of the vertical stack height (NFPA 54 7.6.1d).
          5. CAUTION: Never reduce the vent stack diameter
          without written factory approval. Stacks over 20 feet
          in height can sometimes reduce stack diameter.
          6. Premier Stainless will provide initial burner start
          up and settings. Premier Stainless recommends a
          combustion test and gas analysis by a knowledgeable
          technician with proper tools to ensure peak efficiency
          of burner.
          7. The chimney flue should extend at least 2 ft (0.6m)
          above the highest roof surface or structure within 10
          ft (3.0m) horizontally of the chimney to prevent down
          drafts (follow local codes). Attach the female part of
          the flue pipe to the vent flange using 3 self tapping
          screws spaced equally around the pipe. Install a draft
          regulator (barometric damper) if necessary, this will
          help ensure stable draft conditions in certain cases.
          When going through combustible material, all local
          codes for insulated stacks, i.e. protective shield
          clearances, must be met.
          SIZE

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          • #6
            Call the inspector(s). They're just about the ones whose opinions matter anyway.
            Sent from my Microsoft Bob

            Beer is like porn. You can buy it, but it's more fun to make your own.
            seanterrill.com/category/brewing | twomilebrewing.com

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            • #7
              Get a Mechanical engineer on it, they can design the system. You will need to know what the exhaust temps are to get the right type of vent. If you want to do it yourself, consult the mechanical/plumbing code for your area, and ask your inspectors. Having two or more flues going through one opening complicates things for you, and it will be a very large hole through the wall.

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