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DIY Cold Liquor Tank
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Nice cheap solution. I have done the same before with a big plastic farm tank in our cooler for a CLT. If you want to wait to start refilling the CLT until after knockout, wire in a relay that works off your CLT pump. When the pump is running, the fill solenoid is kept closed. Then when you turn off the pump, the water solenoid opens until the float switch closes it. That way, all your cooling water is the same temperature and you won't have to keep adjusting your flow rates to maintain your wort temperature.
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Originally posted by lhall View PostNice cheap solution. I have done the same before with a big plastic farm tank in our cooler for a CLT. If you want to wait to start refilling the CLT until after knockout, wire in a relay that works off your CLT pump. When the pump is running, the fill solenoid is kept closed. Then when you turn off the pump, the water solenoid opens until the float switch closes it. That way, all your cooling water is the same temperature and you won't have to keep adjusting your flow rates to maintain your wort temperature.
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Originally posted by HogMountain View PostI clicked the link but the article is not there. Is it still available someplace?
Disclaimer: I have since abandoned this system. Please see Optimizing Knockout Time (cont) for more information. When we upgraded our brew system from 1bbl to 3bbl, we realized our wort chilling …
I recommend forgoing the chained drum system in favor of a single tank, if you can. If using drums, they need to be able to hold enough pressure to not leak when water pressure is applied. I'm going to use an IBC tank next time.
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I think I remember this post. They essentially plumbed 4 55 gallon drums together with a float switch and solenoid valve on the inlet of the drums to fill them in the cold box. Then ran that cold water through their Heat Ex. I am working on a similar project at the moment. I used a 400 gallon plastic tank from tank depot that fit in my cold box the best and I am using a float valve instead. Float valves are easier, cheaper, less to parts fail, and have no electricity requirement. For reference, I think they used 4 drums for a 7bbl system and they were calculating for knocking out at lager temps for a single batch. Ill try to take a picture of mine and get it posted here when I finish up with it.
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Originally posted by claponsie View PostHere's an updated link:
Disclaimer: I have since abandoned this system. Please see Optimizing Knockout Time (cont) for more information. When we upgraded our brew system from 1bbl to 3bbl, we realized our wort chilling …
I recommend forgoing the chained drum system in favor of a single tank, if you can. If using drums, they need to be able to hold enough pressure to not leak when water pressure is applied. I'm going to use an IBC tank next time.
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We were looking into a CLT recently. We didn't want to lay out a ton of money, but wanted something very well insulated, sanitary, and not, for a change, a cobbled-together half-assed solution (not implying that the OPs system is such). I spent a week or so researching various options, and these folks were the best thing I found for the best price, custom-configured, even. They bid ~$3,200 for a 40 bbl tank, heavily insulated with high-density applied foam, and all the fittings we could ever use.
Contact:
David Brocato
National Tank Outlet.
We decided to upgrade our HX instead of installing another system, so we ended up not ordering the tank, but David was great to work with.Timm Turrentine
Brewerywright,
Terminal Gravity Brewing,
Enterprise. Oregon.
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