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Dry Hopping when spund carbonating.....

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  • Dry Hopping when spund carbonating.....

    Question:

    Anyone ever rig up something that would allow one to dry hop into a pressurized unitank or BBT??

    I'm thinking a 6" to 3" conical reducer, with a TC cap on the top, and a 3" butterfly valve on the bottom - that would act as the container. One could put a 3" butterfly on the top port on the lid fulltime. When you want to add the hops (or clarifier) you'd put the "container" on the 3" TC valve on the top port open both valves, the hops fall in, you close it off, and yer done.

    I can't imagine this hasn't been done before, but thought I'd ask.

    I also have an idea for adding liquids, such as a clarifier, that I'll share once I get it welded up.

    Cheers.

    -J.
    Jeremy Reed
    Co-Founder and President, assistant brewer, amateur electrician, plumber, welder, refrigeration tech, and intermediately swell fella
    The North of 48 Brewing Company
    Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    www.no48.ca

  • #2
    Take a look at this:
    Marius Graff,
    Head Brewer, Graff Brygghus
    Tromsø, Norway

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    • #3
      We have our own "hop cannon" we use that has really improved our aroma and contact time and we do it on spunded FVs all the time. We use a 15 gallon yeast brink like the one here. Fill it with up to ~15 lbs pellets, attach to the racking arm pointed up, purge it several times with CO2, then pull some beer into the brink, about half way. Shake it up a bit for 5 minutes, then fill it the rest of the way and let it sit ~30 minutes, shaking or rolling occasionally. Then push it back up into the FV with CO2. You have to pull beer back and push it into the FV several times to get the hops slurry fully into the beer and out of the brink. Works really well, IMO. Other threads on probrewer about it. Here's one.
      Dave Cowie
      Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Company
      Nevada City, CA

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      • #4
        In the past, I have added my dry hop pellets at the time I disconnect by top mounted blow off hose TC from the tank and change over to my spundvalve. Add the hops in the top with a wide spout funnel, cap with PRV, attach spundvalve to bottom of CIP arm, pressure to 1.2 bar and set valve to just start to release then tighten till it stops. Since the beer is not carbonated yet, it is unlikely to have a hop volcano. At this point, you are near the end of fermentation anyway, or if fermenting a lager, ready to go into diacetyl rest. The last bit of fermentation will get you the carbonation, and your dry hops are already in. You may get some blowoff and lose some hop aroma, but you don't have to deal with hop volcano. Add more hops.
        Todd G Hicks
        BeerDenizen Brewing Services

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        • #5
          Originally posted by MariusGraff View Post
          Yup - that's essentially what I was thinking!!

          Keep the co2 in solution, but still get the hops where they need to be.

          Now, since I currently have 2bbl at 9psi, with 14oz of chinook to go in, wish me luck!!

          On a related note, I really do love the natural carbonation. I'm not an organic hippie on any front, but natural carbonation really is nicer. It's "silkier". Like scotch, in Ron Burgandy's throat.
          -J.
          Jeremy Reed
          Co-Founder and President, assistant brewer, amateur electrician, plumber, welder, refrigeration tech, and intermediately swell fella
          The North of 48 Brewing Company
          Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

          www.no48.ca

          Comment


          • #6
            I dryhop alot into 20 bbl fermenters. I wait to about 1 plato before FG, open the top port, dump the hops into the FV, and close the port. This is done very quickley or else you will get a hop volcano even though the beer is not carbonated yet. I wait for the activity to calm down (you'll see the beer getting excited from all those yummy fresh hops, it will bubble like crazy into the bucket for a couple of minutes) and then put on the spundvalve. If you work quickley this method is great.

            Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              Originally posted by LagerBear View Post
              I dryhop alot into 20 bbl fermenters. I wait to about 1 plato before FG, open the top port, dump the hops into the FV, and close the port. This is done very quickley or else you will get a hop volcano even though the beer is not carbonated yet. I wait for the activity to calm down (you'll see the beer getting excited from all those yummy fresh hops, it will bubble like crazy into the bucket for a couple of minutes) and then put on the spundvalve. If you work quickley this method is great.

              Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
              Not trying to be the grammar police, but at that point it's not "force carbonated". There is co2 in solution at that point, and that's what causes the volcano.

              I have no idea if there's any negative effect after a volcano occurs, but my dreamt up device what intended to prevent the volcano, and keep the "co2 peace", as it were....

              Thanks for everyone's responses. It would appear I'm not as craft as my wife says I am.

              -J.
              Jeremy Reed
              Co-Founder and President, assistant brewer, amateur electrician, plumber, welder, refrigeration tech, and intermediately swell fella
              The North of 48 Brewing Company
              Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

              www.no48.ca

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Beer Brewery
                We ever manufactured it. It can guarantee the pressure in tank is not relieved during dry hopping.
                The top of this unit is a blind cap, the body looks like a house, and the bottom is a chuck.
                On the dry hopping port of fermenter, we equip a butterfly valve. It can connect with this unit.
                Is it you want?
                Please re-read your post and make it make sense.

                There is no way that you can crack the lid on a 6-8-10psi vessel and not have some foam. If you dump the hops in and cap it before the foam hits, all is good. If you fumble, it's a big fucking mess!!!
                Jeremy Reed
                Co-Founder and President, assistant brewer, amateur electrician, plumber, welder, refrigeration tech, and intermediately swell fella
                The North of 48 Brewing Company
                Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

                www.no48.ca

                Comment

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