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  • Quieter Spunding Valves?

    Hello All-

    We are experimenting with using spunding valves on some of our fermenters. I purchased a couple of Barby-Kuhner Picolino valves (the "entry level" valves.)

    We are happy with them except for the fact that they are really loud. Like loud enough that they are competing with the sound of bands in our tasting room, which shares the space with the brewery.

    Does anyone know of a quieter valve? Or to put it another way, do those with fancier/more expensive valves find them to be any less noisy?

    I assume that these are noisier because the orifice is so small?? It is only a few mm wide and I wonder if this makes them louder.

    Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks- Mike

  • #2
    Odd, our spunding valve makes no noise at all. It's a different manufacturer but looks like the same design. Ours just trickles co2 out as the pressure gets higher than the set point. Does yours build up pressure then release it all at once? Seems like that would be a flawed design.

    Do you set yours from the beginning of fermentation or put it on after a few days?

    Hmmm...maybe one of us is using it wrong? I'd love to hear about the noise level of other spunders.

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    • #3
      Thanks Jake-

      Interesting. We could very easily be using them wrong...

      In this particular case, we put the valve on after dry hopping. But... this particular beer is dry hopped two points above terminal gravity so I think the issue is that the tank is building up pressure and then explosively (or at least "noisily") releasing it from the spunder. The first time we used it, it released a very slow, quite stream of CO2 and gently maintained the set pressure (10 psi, in this case.)

      It seems like there is a "slow trickle" mode and when it gets above a certain level it releases like crazy (like a regular PRV.)

      Another variable is the first time we tried it was on a 20bbl tank and this time we are using it on a 30bbl tank, so maybe it is just producing gas at a rate too fast for the valve to keep up? The sales rep from Archon suggested that this model was the one to use for our size tanks.

      Jake, which valves are you using? Would you share where you get them? We are just testing the waters as to if we want to get more for our other tanks so I am open to exploring other options.

      Thanks again- Mike

      Comment


      • #4
        Barby : Kuhner Spundvalv procedure for type 1070 Kellerfee

        1. Take daily attenuation gravity readings with degassed sample. Always sanitize your zwickle sample port with a spray bottle of sanitizer before and after taking a sample. At this point fermentation should be open through an appropriate air lock hose in a bucket of water. There should always be a pressure-vacuum relief valve on top of the tank or on a non-CIP top port. Keep airlock bucket clean. Taste the sample always for off flavors or infection; do not spit on cellar floor. Record readings and quality tests.

        2. At about 60-65° Attenuation, remove airlock hose and close off that port as needed. Dry hops can be carefully added at this time from a top port. Install spundvalv side attached to the CIP or PRV arm. If there is no side mount, use a TC T fitting on the bottom of the CIP arm with a TC cap on the bottom and the spundvalv on the side. This allows a bit of condensate or fob drippage to collect in the bottom of the T and not clog up the spundvalv. It is OK, even best practice to leave a butterfly valve between CIP arm and T so the assembly can be removed easily for cleaning or whatever. ... so everything is now in place. Make sure all fittings are sanitized, use a spray bottle to sanitize the spundvalv. Record time and date of "capping off" and dry hop addition.

        3. Add 1.2 bar or about 17.5 psi CO2 to the headspace. You should have an arm port with a CO2 disconnect and valve and a separate pressure gauge. Back off the spundvalv knob until it releases at 1.2 bar and then slightly tighten until it stops. You are now operating at just under 1.2 bar release pressure. I do not put water or sanitizer in the water bowl.

        4. If brewing lagers, you may raise your set temperature point to 58-60°F to begin temp raise through diacetyl rest.

        5. As fermentation continues, the excess pressure will release and vent in a steady moderate to slow hiss.

        6. Take frequent gravity readings and record. When you have no further drop in gravity over 2-3 day period, you have reached terminal gravity. Record your apparent degree of attenuation. Taste test samples for off flavors or infection.

        7. Top off CO2 pressure in head space as needed. Maintain temperature as per your fermentation regimen. At least carry through diacetyl rest temp period or a couple of days for ale; there are other fermentation activities going on without CO2 production as the yeast begins absorbing compounds and finishing up it's duties. Warm temp finings as per your fermentation regimen.

        8. Begin temperature drops per your fermentation regimen. Maintain CO2 head pressure daily as the temp drop allows the beer to absorb CO2 from the head space. Cold temp finings as per your fermentation regimen.

        9. Cold crash to 32-34°F and age per your fermentation regimen. Maintain CO2 head pressure daily. You can remove the spundvalv as it has performed it's purpose and can only get broken at this point.

        10. When beer is deemed conditioned and ready, take a CO2 reading with your Zahm-Nagle SS-60 #1000 meter and record. You should be close to your target CO2 saturation.

        11. Filter, rack, or whatever you do to bright tanks. Maintain head pressure on fermenter during transfer. Maintain counter-pressure on bright tank during transfer. Produce no foaming. I try to start transfer slowly, speed it up, and maintain a steady flow rate without surges. Vent receiving tank as necessary. Better yet, use a balance hose so you aren't wasting CO2. That is another procedure. Complete this racking and record volume of beer. Adjust pressure in bright tank to about 15 psi and snug up manway door. Bright tanks should always be equipped with a pressure-vacuum relief valve.

        12. Test bright tank with your Zahm-Nagle SS-60 #1000 CO2 meter for CO2 saturation. If saturation volumes are a little high, vent down the head pressure to 5 psi, go home, and test again tomorrow. It will have released CO2 from solution and should see about 15 psi head pressure. Or, bubble nitrogen through a carb stone to scrub CO2 from solution. Test and repeat until desired CO2 volumes. Do better next time. If CO2 volumes are a little low, then bubble CO2 through the carb stone to adjust. Take readings and record.

        13. Keg or package the beer. Pay excise taxes. Enjoy a cold fresh beer.

        14. Loosen manway door. Vent and clean everything. Repeat.
        Last edited by Todd Hicks; 08-03-2017, 11:39 AM.
        Todd G Hicks
        BeerDenizen Brewing Services

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        • #5
          How can you avoid beer gushing into your blow off arm and entering your spunding device when dryhopping 1-2P above FG? Does anyone have advice for a "clean" dryhop technique at this stage of fermentation?

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          • #6
            Be careful and quick when dry hopping if using the hop volcano procedure. If you see hop dust coming back up at you, then you weren't careful and quick enough. Slap the clamp back down until it settles down.

            For big doses, it is best to use other procedures. These have been discussed in other threads.
            Todd G Hicks
            BeerDenizen Brewing Services

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