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Need help with chiller valve solenoid controller setup...

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  • Need help with chiller valve solenoid controller setup...

    Bought a 2/3 hp glycol chiller to chill 1 jacketed 3bbl fermenter (for the time being). Just trying to wrap my head around the configuration and at equipment I will need for this. Here is my understanding - 1-chiller pumps to the lines 2- pressure reducing valve 3-pressure gauge 4-lines to solenoid ??? One thing that I do not understand is the location of the solenoid?? I would guess (based on nothing ha) that the solenoid should be close to the glycol inlet into the fermenter?? The solenoid is then wired to the temp controller that is connected to the chiller and flow is determined based on the set temp... should another pressure valve be situated somewhere else? Also what diameter tubing should I use for a setupbof this size? Thanks

  • #2
    I'll bite, since I had a lot of the same questions when I was starting out



    The Glycol constantly pumps from your glycol chiller in a single loop or header around to your fermenters, each fermenter has a drop from the loop to the inlet of the jacket with a solenoid (or my preference motorized ball valve) at the inlet. The temp controller monitors the fermenter temp and turns the solenoid valve on or off to call for cooling. The glycol exits the jacket and returns to a separate header, called the return header. The return header line should originate at your first fermenter along the loop and will join up or T into the supply header/loop after the last fermenter along the loop. Right before the return header meets the supply header you need to install a pressure restriction device (we use a gate valve) to make some back pressure on the supply header so the glycol preferentially flows through the fermenter when the Solenoid valve is on.
    Last edited by Junkyard; 08-13-2017, 06:52 AM.

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    • #3
      Hmm thanks , what about as far as pipe size for a setup as small as mine? 2 inch piping oveKill?

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      • #4
        I would suggest staying with the 2" pipe for the glycol header, and where you split off to your tank, reduce to the size of the inlet on your tank.

        In other words if your tank only has a 3/4" inlet, run 3/4" pipe from the 2" header to the tank. Put a 3/4" solenoid on the line, but make it easy to access in case you ever have a problem. I personally prefer to put manual valves on either side, so you can replace without shutting anything down. It's costly though.

        The 2" header will allow you to add more tanks down the line by splicing in more 3/4" lines. First in, last out - Very important.

        Motorized ball valve are the best, Belimo is what I like, but at your size solenoids work fine and are cost effective.

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