So I learned much like you all did, and I was hesitant for the same reasons. My background is in hazardous materials safety, so I thought much along the same lines.
When washing with the acid first, yes you remove some mineral build up, but the main purpose is to soften the protein structure of the build up. The reason for no rinse between is because it will give the complex protein structures a chance to reset and "lock up" after the acid wash. The no rinse is very important. Yes, some of the detergent solution will be neutralized, but if you fully drain the acid solution first, you won't have much molar mass left for the neutralization/reaction, and the softened proteins will be removed much easier by the detergent.
To avoid "the gunk" I try to give a strong hot rinse first (and usually cycle for a few minutes). It removes any easy solids and preheats the vessel so I don't loose temperature in cycle. The rest of it tends to float on the top of my solution and hasn't presented an issue for me up to this point. Since the cycle should be done hot, it helps to pre-rinse hot.
There used to be a few data sheets on this technique on Birko Corps website, but I haven't been able to find them on there recently. I have some info in .pdf that I can send to y'all if you want to see the recommended procedure from Birko and some details on it. Just PM me or leave your email address here. You can also contact Dana, as he is "the man", and he can give you more complex details if interested.
I often use their described chemical formulations (Acid Brite #2, Bru-R-Eze, Cell-R-Master, ect), but have also used other manufacturers products that consist of the same chemical compositions and ratios. The prescribed detergent is an alkaline non-caustic, but it seems to have worked well with the sodium hydroxide (Cir-Q-Late) in place of it.
Sorry I don't have easy volume answers at hand, but if you contact me, I can forward the documents I have saved. I generally don't need this method often, but it has worked quite well when something sticks or builds up over time. This specific method has been used on a dirty wine tanker as well, so it obviously has been proven to work on large vessels (even back in 2005).
I have been using this method for about 5 years now, and have seen no negative effects, other than the cost of chemicals. I usually run regular CIP (caustic, rinse, acid, rinse) unless it gets build up. Probably use this method every 4-6 months on average.
When washing with the acid first, yes you remove some mineral build up, but the main purpose is to soften the protein structure of the build up. The reason for no rinse between is because it will give the complex protein structures a chance to reset and "lock up" after the acid wash. The no rinse is very important. Yes, some of the detergent solution will be neutralized, but if you fully drain the acid solution first, you won't have much molar mass left for the neutralization/reaction, and the softened proteins will be removed much easier by the detergent.
To avoid "the gunk" I try to give a strong hot rinse first (and usually cycle for a few minutes). It removes any easy solids and preheats the vessel so I don't loose temperature in cycle. The rest of it tends to float on the top of my solution and hasn't presented an issue for me up to this point. Since the cycle should be done hot, it helps to pre-rinse hot.
There used to be a few data sheets on this technique on Birko Corps website, but I haven't been able to find them on there recently. I have some info in .pdf that I can send to y'all if you want to see the recommended procedure from Birko and some details on it. Just PM me or leave your email address here. You can also contact Dana, as he is "the man", and he can give you more complex details if interested.
I often use their described chemical formulations (Acid Brite #2, Bru-R-Eze, Cell-R-Master, ect), but have also used other manufacturers products that consist of the same chemical compositions and ratios. The prescribed detergent is an alkaline non-caustic, but it seems to have worked well with the sodium hydroxide (Cir-Q-Late) in place of it.
Sorry I don't have easy volume answers at hand, but if you contact me, I can forward the documents I have saved. I generally don't need this method often, but it has worked quite well when something sticks or builds up over time. This specific method has been used on a dirty wine tanker as well, so it obviously has been proven to work on large vessels (even back in 2005).
I have been using this method for about 5 years now, and have seen no negative effects, other than the cost of chemicals. I usually run regular CIP (caustic, rinse, acid, rinse) unless it gets build up. Probably use this method every 4-6 months on average.
Comment