Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

In line Yeast Dosing

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • In line Yeast Dosing

    Hi All,

    Am trying to put together an inline yeast dosing system. The thought right now is simply a T-piece which connects product line to FV and from the T, a sight-glass + john guest connection point running to a pressurised corney.

    questions:

    1) our product lines are DIN40, and i'm planning to push yeast through the T-connector using a John Guest line with OD 3/8". Will I need an absurd amount of pressure on the Corney to get the dosing to work?

    2) Does anyone have a good solution for aerating my rehydrated yeast slurry in the corney without exposing contents to the environment?

    Cheers!
    -e

  • #2
    Not sure what line pressure will be required - but not much. The slurry should be very thin, so will not provide much back pressure, so you simply want enough to exceed the back pressure at the point of injection due to wort depth or line pressure, the greater the excess pressure, the faster it goes in.

    Dried yeast doesn't require additional aeration. Dried yeast is fully air saturated (for want of a better term) and will not take up any additional oxygen until after say 12 hours after start of fermentation. You only need to aerate if you are repitching yeast collected from a previous brew, or sometimes if you are brewing a really high gravity beer with fresh dried yeast - but then the best place to do it is in the FV after fermentation has started.
    dick

    Comment


    • #3
      I prefer this method, although I use a full sized brink instead of a corney. Mine goes KO hose to sight glass to tee. The tee has a valve on the branch side, which starts as a bypass for the KO (block and bleed). Once I have changed valves from bypass to tank, I disconnect bypass and attach sanitized brink hose. Brink hose is clear so no need for a sight glass on this side. After I set HX temp and get a little buffering volume in the tank, I push brink with a little co2 pressure (maybe 10 psi) and throttle with the tee/bypass valve. Pick up and shake keg near the end, and tilt to empty completely (when using it all, otherwise I weigh it). Super easy. No need to tilt on a corney, but shaking mixes it well and helps prevent clogging with more flocculant strains. Aerate at any time, I prefer a low and slow method over a longer period.

      I'd suggest skipping the john guest and trying to get a din to hose barb adapter if your tees/valves are din (I use TC). Then you can use a hose barb corney adapter and run bev line, or other clear appropriately sized tubing from corney to din adapter.

      As Dick says, no need to aerate dry yeast after hydration (it should be pitched in less than an hour). Just aerate your wort on KO. I usually begin aeration right after pitching.
      Last edited by UnFermentable; 10-03-2017, 05:00 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        I use the same technique as unfermentable above. I also have to add that after going for my first 1.5 years after opening harvesting yeast into sanitized plastic gallon containers, I finally splurged and bought a 15 gallon brink. So worth the money, IMO. They are permanent pieces of equipment. I now have 4 of them. 3 for my 3 yeasts and a 4th that I use to hop cannon all my DH beers. Counter pressure yeast harvest, easy to thoroughly clean/sani, just worth every penny for my set up. I tried using a corny only very briefly but the wlp002 was just not gonna flow through that.
        Dave Cowie
        Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Company
        Nevada City, CA

        Comment


        • #5
          Cross and a racking arm

          I'll mirror what these guys have all said and add: use a cross (not tee) on your block and bleed. You can hook your yeast line up and leave it packed with your sani solution until knock out time and not worry about exposing it. Also, get a yeast brink. I tried cornys and had terrible success trying to push our house strain (002) out of them. If you get a 1/2 bbl brink you will find all kinds of uses for it. Deutsche sells a racking arm that will allow you to pick up all but an ounce or two of the contents.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by andrew_FSBC View Post
            I'll mirror what these guys have all said and add: use a cross (not tee) on your block and bleed. You can hook your yeast line up and leave it packed with your sani solution until knock out time and not worry about exposing it. Also, get a yeast brink. I tried cornys and had terrible success trying to push our house strain (002) out of them. If you get a 1/2 bbl brink you will find all kinds of uses for it. Deutsche sells a racking arm that will allow you to pick up all but an ounce or two of the contents.
            +1 for sure on the racking arm.
            Dave Cowie
            Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Company
            Nevada City, CA

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for all the great advice people!
              unfortunately a proper brink is a bit outside of budget for right now but I think I have enough to work with here!
              -e

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by andrew_FSBC View Post
                I'll mirror what these guys have all said and add: use a cross (not tee) on your block and bleed. You can hook your yeast line up and leave it packed with your sani solution until knock out time and not worry about exposing it. Also, get a yeast brink. I tried cornys and had terrible success trying to push our house strain (002) out of them. If you get a 1/2 bbl brink you will find all kinds of uses for it. Deutsche sells a racking arm that will allow you to pick up all but an ounce or two of the contents.
                Hey Andrew,

                Do you have a picture of your cross?
                thanks!

                Comment

                Working...
                X