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  • DO Levels

    In terms of DO levels, product stability and overall quality. Would an entry level bottling system be better than an entry level canning system? Something in the 15k range. ex: HDP(or equivalent) vs. Cask manual system(or equivalent).

  • #2
    Manual canning line

    I've been running a Cask manual line for a few months now. Just realizing how bad sanitizing the cans has been for product life. Probably changing to water or foregoing the rinse entirely until we buy another machine. Need to consider how your empties are stored whether cans or bottles and then how you intend to rinse before filling.

    Applying pressure sensitive labels to cans is not a big deal either, which enables you to buy smaller quantities of Brite cans instead of pre labeled.

    Good luck!
    Scott Swygert
    Founder - Honky Tonk Brewing Co.

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    • #3
      Manual can sanitation Issues

      We have also noticed issue's with oxidation with Cask manual canner and are looking into a different pre rinse method. What did you guys end up coming up with?
      Cheers!

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      • #4
        Cans will always have the tendency to pick up DO faster than bottles. Bottles can be pumped down to a vacuum, and refilled with CO2. Cans can only be purged. Sanitizers can carry oxygen, most places use sterile water for rinse, which leads to a big number in water consumption for packaging lines. One thing I know that New Belgium does to keep the TPO down is to dose a grain or two of dried yeast into every can, it soaks up all the oxygen pretty quickly.

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        • #5
          rinsing cans

          We just bought a new canning line. We set it to rinse with filtered water only.

          The last time we used the manual machine, we did not rinse at all. We set up a test with a few cans to see if there was a difference between Star San rinse and no rinse, but it's only been a couple of weeks and I have not tasted the beers yet.

          We did use our manual machine to can a Brettanomyces fermented IPA and it held up a lot better than our standard IPA when both cans were sealed with the manual seamer and rinsed with Star San. This would lead me to believe adding a little yeast (Sach or other) may help the DO in the package.
          Scott Swygert
          Founder - Honky Tonk Brewing Co.

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          • #6
            jebzter has the right of things. From what I understand in smaller canning lines its very hard to get counter pressure going which means the best you can do is purge with co2 and hope no more o2 re-enters the can between the purging and the sealing. Also adding back yeast to absorb o2 is a great trick a lot of brewers use to up the shelf life (especially if you are shipping internationally or something). I don't know much about it but I think with some research you could figure it out.

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            • #7
              Thats what I was thinking. it seems most can lines are open fill. An entry level bottling system would most likely be superior for DO pickup and shelf stability. Plus it looks like you are able to do an open fill on cans with some of the bottle systems...for small releases, etc.

              We would still have some yeast in suspension in our packaged product. We dont filter, we would only cold crash it, send it to the brite, then package. Would that have the same effect as what the big guys do with adding some new yeast back in?

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