Walk in cooler footprint

[SRB]

We have a line on a panelized cooler box. And we are very close to rough in plumbing and flatwork. We are building from the ground up on this.
Does anyone have some feedback on the interface with the slab? ie the panels with the concrete. Should we curb the cooler?
I assume that the ground will remain an exposed slab. Does this mean that we should insulate with "blue board" below the slab?
We plan to slope and drain the cooler box independently.
thx
matt g

[SRB]

for the curious.....
I have been led to believe from multiple sources that insulating the ground below the slab is not required. The line on the panelized cooler walls for cheap is gone....which opened a brainstorm with my partner in my spray foam business....we have moved back to spray foaming a custom cooler.
Why buy someone else's panels when we can just custom fabricate our own with wood, spray foam, plastic for a vapor retarder and fiberglass panels?

[canyon]

curb your ...

Curb anything permanent. I can't stress this enough. Staggered light studs on larger plates work great for site built cooler foamed from outside in on finished interior wall. IMHO drop the vapor retarder with use of spray foam. Not essential but if you can isolate the perimeter of the cooler slab pour with blue board all the better for energy savings.

[GlacierBrewing]

After building our own cold room, I came up with some design changes I would do next time around: minimum 1/2" plywood on all walls and ceiling, OVERSIZE IT, floor drain, motorized louvers to the outside with a computer-controlled temperature interface to bring in winter cold air and save on compressor wear-and-tear, strengthen the ceiling trusses to allow for a motorized ceiling winch for triple-stacking the 1/2 bbl kegs.
I CAN DREAM, CAN'T I?!?!?

Prost!
Dave

p.s. Yes, curb it. Oh yea, make sure your door is wide enough to allow a pallet width through.

[lhall]

Amen on the pallet door and oversizing it. I didn't plan our cooler for our growth and now we're hand rolling in our kegs and manually double-stacking them. Alright when you're starting out but it sucks when you're doing bigger batches.

[SRB]

10-4 on the curbing...
Will do on isolating the edge of the slab for increased efficiency...
Planning on staggering studs to break thermal bridging...
And we will hunt down a pallet wide cooler door to the ends of the earth!!
If anyone has one let me know!!!...
We are a tad constrained on size...we may (were gonna give it our best shot!) have to add on in the future..
Glacier...hell ya you can dream...your livin it right?
I'll talk to our refridge guru about the motorized louvers...and the winch load bearing ceiling.....it will be just the kind of monday morning conversation w/ coffee my brewery partner and I love to have!
thanks folks!

[beertje46]

Our cooler has an insulated, 14' wide overhead door. Check with your local health department prior to installing a floor-drain as it is illegal in most areas.

[GlacierBrewing]

We couldn't find a pallet-width cooler door so we made our own. You just need to find the right hardware; REALLY BIG HINGES!

[SRB]

Our cooler has an insulated, 14' wide overhead door. Check with your local health department prior to installing a floor-drain as it is illegal in most areas.

14' !!! who said size doesn't count
We can install the floor drain in the cooler.....Idaho has been good to us so far.

[lhall]

I'd echo David's comment on the floor drain. We have one in both coolers, and even though the plans were approved with them on the drawings, the plumbing inspector made us put a backflow check valve in the line from each cooler. Expensive, and we don't really use the drains for anything now.

[bman]

bar inc. is where we got or cooler they
had a lot of parts

[SRB]

.........minimum 1/2" plywood on all walls and ceiling,..........

*Is the plywood for screwing stuff into?
*Do you recommend any material over the plywood

thx!!

FTI , We are going to install 1" blueboard under the slab and 1 inch blueboard over the foam insulated TGI's to break the minimal but present thermal bridging in the lid. We are staggering our studs but have to put in a secondary base plate to pull it off...not a big deal...small oversite.
We are using open cell foam. 99% vapor impermeable but not 100%. Really vapor diffusion is the only culprit that might bite us but.....6 mil plastic, staples and caulk (staple holes) wont take but an hour from start to finish.

Thanks for the ideas folks!