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  • New Barrel Treatment

    We purchased some new, medium toast American oak barrels. I'm developing a SOP prior to filling. I was thinking just a high pressure wash at 160F with a spray nozzle.

    Any recommendations? I recall wine industry folks mentioning things like proxy carb, citric acid and rock salt prior to filling new barrels.
    Jeffrey Stuffings
    Jester King Craft Brewery
    13005 Fitzhugh Rd.
    Austin, Texas 78736
    (512) 364-7278
    jstuffings@jesterkingbrewery.com
    www.jesterkingbrewery.com

  • #2
    I haven't done any barrel aging personally but I stumbled upon this the other day when I was looking into it. It is from the MoreBeer website and it is fairly detailed. I'm sure there are many more ways to prepare the barrel but this could give you a good start and it looks pretty detailed.

    home winemaking, wine making, wine kits, wine ingredients, wine equipment


    Cheers,

    Jared Kueker
    Kaskaskia Brewing (future)
    Kaskaskia Brewing Company

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    • #3
      I did the whole citric acid/sulfur candle thing with some whiskey barrels we got. Possibly overkill, but it put me at ease for the first attempt at barrel aging. Beer still in them, tastes fantastic.

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      • #4
        Never sulphur candle a bourbon barrel unless you want to blow yourself up!
        -Beaux

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        • #5
          Originally posted by beauxman
          Never sulphur candle a bourbon barrel unless you want to blow yourself up!
          -Beaux
          Should have been a little more specific. Was thoroughly cleaned pre sulfur. Didn't want too much bourbon flavor in the beer. I've heard the horror stories.

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          • #6
            For new barrels. I use 10 gallons of warm water, plus or minus 100 degrees Fahrenheit. I roll the barrel to wet all of the staves and then let stand on one of the heads for 30 minutes. I then roll the barrel again to re-wet all of the staves and let stand on the other head for 30 minutes. Finally, I roll the barrel one last time and place it in a rack, bung side down. After barrel stops dripping, 30 minutes or so, I sulphur it and place a Dixie cup in the bunghole. Barrel will be stored this way until filled.
            I would hesitate using water hotter than luke warm. I know of some wineries that only use five gallons, and some that only use cold water, and some that do not do anything prior to filling. Everyone has his or her own methodology and reasons for it. I would recommend though, whatever method you use, sample the water that you drain. You will be blown away on how much oak character will be in the water, it tastes like cheap whiskey with out the booze. You will then understand why there are so many methodologies and probably start using the minimal amounts as well.

            Kevin
            When all else fails, forget the hammer. It's time for explosives!

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            • #7
              My cooper always told me to use hot water with salt in our new American oak barrels. Mix about 1 pound salt per 10 gallons hot water to remove excess tannin and residual wood dust. The water that comes out is this nasty green-brown color and fills the brewery with the aroma of wood and bad whiskey. Repeat until your desired level of "oakiness" is reached. (This will take a few days sometimes). Fill.

              *Side note: You wouldn't believe how protective some wineries are with their barrel "seasoning" procedures. Good luck!

              Geoff

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              • #8
                Originally posted by jazzmac
                Didn't want too much bourbon flavor in the beer. I've heard the horror stories.

                Innis & Gunn (Scotland) do some very tasty beers aged in whisky casks, and a long time ago I did a barley wine strength beer in sherry casks - the best version in my opinion was with the sherry lees left in at filling
                dick

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