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Steam stack and internal drip ring

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  • Steam stack and internal drip ring

    Does anyone know where to get an internal drip ring for a kettle steam stack? Or any advice on how to make or fab one. I appreciate it.
    Nick Tanner
    Head Brewer/Founder
    Cherry Street Brewing Cooperative
    Cumming, GA
    www.cherrystreetbrewing.com

  • #2
    Can't just buy one. They're almost always (if not always) welded to the top interior of the onion dome on the kettle. Or absent that, the very top of the kettle's straight cylindrical section. Or both (on some German systems). Just need some flat stainless stock. Bend, tack, and weld continuous. Be sure to install it "unsquare" with the tank axis, so that there's a low point to drain from. Every kettle should have one. Where did you get yours that they decided not to include this?
    Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--

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    • #3
      It is a 3.5bbl 145 gal kettle from Stout Tanks. http://conical-fermenter.com/products/3-bbl-systems/ I have a 6" TC Flange that goes to the lid. I have a local company that can do the stack, which is also the designated roofers for our complex. I will pass off that info and see if they understand that. I appreciate that response.
      Nick Tanner
      Head Brewer/Founder
      Cherry Street Brewing Cooperative
      Cumming, GA
      www.cherrystreetbrewing.com

      Comment


      • #4
        A few comments on the design of this kettle. Don't mean to bash Stout Tanks, but I think my concerns are legitimate. First, it should absolutely have a drip ring in the exhaust. Collect some of the condensate dripping from a proper drip ring, taste it and then let me know if you want that in your brew. Second, it should have a domed top. A flat top invites condensation to drip from it directly back into the wort. It's also weak construction. Third, there's no CIP. Kinda important for cleaning! Fourth, I don't see any heating for this. How is it boiled? And last, the kettle is a bit tall for its width. I prefer something in the neighborhood of width = height or very slightly taller than wide. A tall kettle invites surge boiling and foaming. Just my 2 bits. I guess those other things can be added as "options", but I consider them non-negotiable.
        Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--

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        • #5
          Originally posted by gitchegumee View Post
          A few comments on the design of this kettle. Don't mean to bash Stout Tanks, but I think my concerns are legitimate. First, it should absolutely have a drip ring in the exhaust. Collect some of the condensate dripping from a proper drip ring, taste it and then let me know if you want that in your brew. Second, it should have a domed top. A flat top invites condensation to drip from it directly back into the wort. It's also weak construction. Third, there's no CIP. Kinda important for cleaning! Fourth, I don't see any heating for this. How is it boiled? And last, the kettle is a bit tall for its width. I prefer something in the neighborhood of width = height or very slightly taller than wide. A tall kettle invites surge boiling and foaming. Just my 2 bits. I guess those other things can be added as "options", but I consider them non-negotiable.
          Here is a 3 bbl kettle (see below) from Stout Tanks that addresses many of these concerns. We offer equipment that meets a variety of requirements and budgets. This one costs a bit more. As a quick note of clarification, all of the commercial size Stout Tanks include CIP capability (in the example above, there is a 3" TC port for the CIP ball to attach to).

          The kettle below is heated with nearly 100% efficient electric elements.

          Click image for larger version

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