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View Full Version : Get rid of chill haze



Dannken
03-27-2005, 03:59 PM
Hi everyone, I wanna know how can i get rid of chill haze, the right way to eliminate it.
thanks for ur help

jrdamas
03-27-2005, 09:22 PM
filter at cold temps and/or use some additives. I have always been told that is the right way and it seems to work ok.

Enkidu
03-27-2005, 09:57 PM
There are many factors effecting chill haze. Everything from anthocyanogene content in your malt to the use of finings in the kettle. Most importantly (I believe) is your filtration temperature. You should attempt to filter your beer at -1 to –2 degrees Celsius.

oppigards
03-28-2005, 09:09 AM
Be sure to be under -1 degress celsius in the hole batch, not only around the temp probe.

Lex
03-28-2005, 01:36 PM
I agree -w- the other post; we filtered @ 34 deg. Fahrenheit & used silica gel (Chillguard is a common brand) in the conditioning tank. never had a problem -w- haze.

Tbrew
03-28-2005, 06:06 PM
The production of chill haze in beer is a result of variables in every part of the brewing process (from the farmers fertilizing fields to shipping/age of the beer). To describe how to avoid chill haze is to describe the optimal brewing process. This can be found in any brewing textbook. If by chance you don't already own it I would suggest the MBAA Practical Brewer that comes in Spanish.

To answer the general question in generalities, focus on upstream processing points before trying to correct the beer with stabilizers. If you need to stabilize now and work on the upstream in the long run, then after reducing oxygen to the most minimal levels possible (~<300ppb TPO, lower the better, 50ppb is attainable) then treat either with silica gel or PVPP or both. I am a believer in PVPP. This is because chill haze is a combination of protein (medium molecular weight) and tannins. If you remove one of the two you will not have chill haze. There is a lot more protein in beer than tannin (and protein has many benefits to beer, tannin little/none) so removing tannin makes more sense.

If it makes so much sense why doesn't everyone use it? MONEY. PVPP is much more expensive per KG than silica gel. Effectiveness? That is a case by case issue that each brewery needs to establish for themselves.

Hope this helps.

Lex
03-28-2005, 11:48 PM
We used brewbrite (carrageenan +PVPP) in the kettle as a replacement for Irish Moss; it is a remarkable clarifier. Do Not Use -w- Wit’s or Hefe’s. Ive found silica to be an effective means of dropping out proteins & keeping my head when used sparingly. Heed caution when using clarifiers. Too much silica & you’ll behead your beer, too much providone (PVPP) color & flavor may be reduced. I believe the rule is 40gms. per hectoliter of brew. I had an experience with some pretty crappy high protein malt & haze was not an issue, moreover mediocre efficiency & slow run-off’s. In conjunction with checking upstream processing, a water analysis may prove beneficial; high rates of metals (copper/iron) can have an effect on clarity as well. Best of Luck.

gamebrewer
03-29-2005, 10:19 AM
A question along these same lines, I've tried using gelatin finings in my helles lager and haven't had much luck. I might have the amount of gelatin wrong. I'm using about 7 tsps for 7 bbls. Too low? I'm not sure if the haze is protein or yeast. I add the finings at about 4 weeks of aging. I get almost no clarifying in 10 days. I dose it by putting the gelatin in a blender with hot water, blend, then add to five gallons of hot water. I then slowly dose into the trasfer line. Our base malt is Weyermann's Pilsner malt.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Diamond Knot
03-29-2005, 11:28 AM
We used Klarospane that we get from Gusmer. I believe its actual name in Propylene Alginate, an Irish Moss derivative made with Propylene Glycol, which is distilled off.

It is VERY effective, and we have used it for 11 years, now. Our dosing is 4 ounces (114 gms) mixed in a half a beer pitcher of 180 degree hot water for 7 Bbls. Since we use Grundies as secondary "clarifier" Fermeneters (we don't carbonate in them currently), we pour the dose right in through the upper port in the top lid of the Grundy while the beer is transferring in.

We hold the beer at 34F - 35F for 3 days at the least and keg from there. It looks pretty clear as it comes across, and a couple of added days makes it very, very clear.

If you are gaing for as long as you are, gamebrewer, then I would say Klarospane would work quite well. We also use plain ol' Irish Moss in the kettle which we have re-hydrated with hot water prior to dosing in (it reminds me of pickle relish!).

Dannken
04-02-2005, 06:01 PM
Txs to everyone for every answer. I really aprecciate ur help
Best regards

jdsiegrist
12-29-2005, 06:31 PM
I brew in much smaller batches. I too suffer from Chill haze. I have this problem in many of my recent batches.

I have been cooling the wort from a full boil down to 70F Degrees in under 30minutes.

I use Irish moss for the last 15 minutes of the boil.

My brew kettle is Stainless Steel. I ferment in a platsic fermenter for the 1st 2-3 weeks and then into a glass carboy for the remaining time.

I have 2 digitally controled fermentaion chambers (Deepfreezers)

I am at a loss as to what I could do next to get the cloudyness from the final product.