Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cleaning scorched elements

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cleaning scorched elements

    So it happened after 20 brews or so. My standard regimen for cleaning on my 7bbl 4 element kettle is:

    Spray out kettle and elements with hose
    Cover elements with a 1/2oz per gallon of Madison PBC at 120f by filling the kettle to ~ 2.5bbls and soak overnight. Next day I blast them off with the hose and they come clean. Zero issues until yesterday's brew.

    I brewed an 18 Plato DIPA with a new to us, as in never tried till now, malt (CMC Pils). As usual when the kettle was filled with wort just above the elements, I fired them up to start the boil which happens fairly vigorously given the small amount (2.5bbls).

    While boiling I could smell a slight charring or burning. Not much I could do but to continue on. After knockout a few of the elements had pieces of burned on protein/break/ whatever the proper term for the huge rubber like brown chunks that form and typically float around the kettle.

    So, I have two questions:
    Any way in my process or water or whatever to minimize the formation of this material?

    How would you clean charred elements? Elbow grease will get it in the end, but a chemical regimen to loosen the char would be much appreciated..

    Thanks for any help.

  • #2
    Design

    Your question and difficulty are going to lead you into matters of your design not being good choice for the job being performed due to the high watt density of electric elements.
    Possibly we can get some Engineers to chime in on this one. Phillip any ideas?
    If you must run electric, I would never be comfortable unless there is a way to moderate it like they do in smaller RIMS systems etc. Essentially you need something like PWM or infinite control at that scale if such a thing is possible. Othrwise the watt density is too great and there will always be a risk in running it for this duty.
    The last most interesting post for use of electric for brewing were the conductivity style boilers.
    That seems to be the best way to utilize electricity for small scale brewing I have seen thus far.
    Warren Turner
    Industrial Engineering Technician
    HVACR-Electrical Systems Specialist
    Moab Brewery
    The Thought Police are Attempting to Suppress Free Speech and Sugar coat everything. This is both Cowardice and Treason given to their own kind.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Starcat View Post
      Your question and difficulty are going to lead you into matters of your design not being good choice for the job being performed due to the high watt density of electric elements.
      Possibly we can get some Engineers to chime in on this one. Phillip any ideas?
      If you must run electric, I would never be comfortable unless there is a way to moderate it like they do in smaller RIMS systems etc. Essentially you need something like PWM or infinite control at that scale if such a thing is possible. Othrwise the watt density is too great and there will always be a risk in running it for this duty.
      The last most interesting post for use of electric for brewing were the conductivity style boilers.
      That seems to be the best way to utilize electricity for small scale brewing I have seen thus far.
      Our setup uses 4 x low density 15k watt elements that have their output controlled via a panel. It's just odd that this happened on this particular brew with a new malt... Would I be better off not bringing the smaller amount of liquid to such a vigorous boil prior to kettle full?

      Comment


      • #4
        Hate to say it but PBW does pretty good job for extended soaking.

        If you do not have that much time then extended CIP with Super CIP or HD Caustic2 at 160F will do.

        You should have ultra low density elements.

        Comment


        • #5
          Boiling before collecting all your pre boil wort means your boiling very concentrated sugars. With the DIPA, the wort was much stronger than your other lower gravity brews. That may be the source of your scorching. It should work if you turn them on to lower temperatures to keep the wort heating but not boiling until you have a full kettle. Thats the way Ive seen it done on direct fired, electric and steam heated kettles.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by jebzter View Post
            Boiling before collecting all your pre boil wort means your boiling very concentrated sugars. With the DIPA, the wort was much stronger than your other lower gravity brews. That may be the source of your scorching. It should work if you turn them on to lower temperatures to keep the wort heating but not boiling until you have a full kettle. Thats the way Ive seen it done on direct fired, electric and steam heated kettles.
            This was my thought too in the end and I'll go with this idea from here on out as well. I spoke with my chemical guy also who recommended an acid CIP followed by a rinse and then a stronger dose of caustic which I did. Most of the scorched on stuff came off but some elbow grease will finish the job.

            Thanks for replies everyone. The beer will likely be a dumper unfortunately.

            Comment

            Working...
            X