View Full Version : Bought a new pump and can not get it running.

09-03-2014, 02:49 PM
My pump just died out on me during a brew recently. I bought a new pump(Goulds) and got it mounted to our existing cart, and wired up accrording to the diagram sticker on the side. I flip the switch and... nothing. Filled up kettle, hooked up hoses, primed, flipped it on and.... nothing. Pulled the wires and reversed them, tried again... nothing. Am I missing something? I tried reading the manual, it was very unhelpful.
The pump is connected to a simple light switch, which is run into some spare outlets that are mounted to the cart that my old pump was on. I went back through and opened everything up to check the wiring and everything seems to be square. Any help would be appreciated.

09-03-2014, 03:47 PM
Steve, when you say light switch, this can mean a number of ways to power up.
If your pump is 115V Single phase which it sounds like you need to verify that you have that voltage at the motor terminal box with a proper Volt meter. You have to know you have power where it belongs.
Many modern wiring diagrams are quite misleading to persons who are not wiring things often.
Even electrical men have to look at them carefully.
Miswiring can destroy a motor in seconds.
As an example, not many laypersons will know what the ungrounded line refers to in diagram instructions.

09-04-2014, 09:02 AM
This is the diagram that is listed. I am using it as low voltage. The violet and yellow were already together with a wire nut and the black and blue were twisted together. I have 3 wires coming from the plug, white, black, green. I grounded the green, and then used the black to the brown and the white to the black/blue connection. Seems wildly simple, is this wrong? To my understanding the lines are all the same and can be interchanged between the black and white.


I also referenced this with the way the last pump(also a goulds) was wired and they were identical, except the wires were just different colors.

09-04-2014, 10:16 AM
Have you used a volt meter to check that you are getting power to the motor? The switch might be defective and this motor is a lot of load for a normal light switch anyway, you should look at getting a heavy duty one. They have them at Home Depot and Lowes.

09-04-2014, 10:27 AM
I do not have a multimeter on hand, going to call another local brewery and see if they have one available to borrow. If this is too much load for the light switch, could it just be fried?

09-04-2014, 10:45 AM
Yes, the light switch could have fried. You should consider getting a volt meter and line tester. They are very handy to have and pretty cheap now. You can get a whole kit for less than $40


09-04-2014, 12:05 PM
WOW! That is cheap! Back in my mechanic days I could have sworn a multimeter was a $250 investment. I appreciate that.

09-04-2014, 12:15 PM
Your "light switch" is almost certainly fried. While these switches are rated from 15-20 amps, there is a high voltage recoil pulse from the motor--or any induction device--when it is switched off. This pulse will arc across and destroy contacts not rated for motors. Either use a real motor-starter switch or wire in a contactor (a heavy-duty relay made for motor starting). Better yet, get a proper motor starter/overload protector. These will help prevent the motor from burning out due to overload, jamming, etc.

Are you running the motor at 110 or 230 V? There's a big difference in amperage between the two--a factor of 2--and your wiring needs to be up to snuff for that amperage +20%, bare minimum.

09-04-2014, 02:54 PM
Got the pump up and running. Bought a multimeter from the Home Depot, wasn't getting power. Bought a new heavy duty switch, installed it, BOOM pump fired right up! Thanks a lot for the help guys, I was starting to sweat for a minute. Production was totally halted for a couple days there.

And I am running it on the low voltage setup btw.