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Pushing beer through long lines, requires more PSI and causes over carb...

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  • Pushing beer through long lines, requires more PSI and causes over carb...

    After installing a new brite tank, I was able to get it to the correct carbonation level within 1 hour of pumping through the stone. Then we had the beer on the tap wall from the brite tank directly.

    But because it was only at 10 PSI to push it, it was slow and almost nothing. I figure this is because the line is very long at 18 feet. To get it to come out of the faucet, I had to increase the PSI to 13. After a week, I noticed the carbonation increased and now it is overcarbed beyond what I like.

    Temperature at 35 degrees. Volumes of CO2 are at 2.9. This is ok if I was pushing a Hefe. But this porter is more bubbly than I like it to be. Although some customers like it better. I want to serve at less volumes than this.

    I am pushing the beer from the head pressure, just like a keg would do. Meaning, the CO2 is no longer hooked up to the stone. Instead it is hooked up to the top of the tank to push the beer out the bottom. But the head pressure eventually balanced out and increased the CO2 level.

    Is there a trick to pushing the beer to the faucet over longer distances? Or do I just need to somehow shorten the line? Maybe a larger inside diameter tube?

    Thank you very much for taking the time to read my problem.
    Pete

  • #2
    You are on the right track. You need to reduce the pressure drop from the tank to the tap. So larger diameter now that you have a longer run. The brewers association has a draught beer guide that explains the calcs.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Jason
    Scholb Premium Ales

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    • #3
      We have a long run between our cold room and the tap (~40 feet), so we serve at 30 psi. We push from kegs with beer gas (70% N2, 30% CO2), which keeps the beer from overcarbonating. I don't think you'd have a problem doing the same thing with a brite tank, since it's really just a big keg. Makes serving nitro beers a cinch, too. Just carb to 1.2-1.4 volumes, and push it with beer gas through a nitro tap with a sparkler.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by spetrovits View Post
        We have a long run between our cold room and the tap (~40 feet), so we serve at 30 psi. We push from kegs with beer gas (70% N2, 30% CO2), which keeps the beer from overcarbonating. I don't think you'd have a problem doing the same thing with a brite tank, since it's really just a big keg. Makes serving nitro beers a cinch, too. Just carb to 1.2-1.4 volumes, and push it with beer gas through a nitro tap with a sparkler.
        My guess is that the bright tank likely isn't rated to a working pressure of ~30psi, so it is in fact Not just a big keg.

        Look into larger diameter lines and/or a beer pump designed for long draw draft systems.

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        • #5
          Yeah. I know tanks don't run at 30 psi. That's why I don't run it that way. My point was that pushing 13 psi beer gas in HIS tank (the pressure he stated in his post) would work just fine. But thanks for your input.

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          • #6
            Use 3/8" ID line from the brite tank to the faucet. Right at the faucet, drop the line ID down to 3/16" ID line, probably about 2 or 3'. 3/8" line has a restriction of about 0.5 psi per foot, 3/16" ID has about 3 psi per foot. You also have to take into account changes in height. Go to micromatic.com and search for balancing draft lines.
            Linus Hall
            Yazoo Brewing
            Nashville, TN
            www.yazoobrew.com

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            • #7
              Another option for you is to use beer pumps (something like this http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...id-MP-093.html) That way you set your tank to the required pressure to maintain carbonation and then you can use CO2 (or air) pressure on the beer pump to maintain enough pressure on the line to prevent foaming and pour at the right speed. They're very common on longer draw systems.
              Manuel

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              • #8
                Beer pumps. Beer pumps. Beer pumps.

                We use Flo-jet air-powered beer pumps to push 8 lines 75 feet over and ten feet high to our outdoor serving kiosk. They're absolutely the best way to go. Our kiosk has the best pours I've experienced. Line cleaning is a breeze if you add reversing valves to the pumps. No cleaning pump needed!

                While you're at it, search the 'net for and download the Draught Beer Quality Manual. It is the absolute best resource for setting up, operating, and maintaining your tap system.
                Timm Turrentine

                Brewerywright,
                Terminal Gravity Brewing,
                Enterprise. Oregon.

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                • #9
                  realize this is reviving a very old thread ...

                  but i ABSOLUTELY agree with above poster- beer pumps are the way to go. plastic or stainless, whatever you can afford. and a basic air compressor and you've got perfect pours at long distances. beer gas is great, but they even work well with just regular CO2. add in a FOB to shutoff the line when the tank/keg blows and you're all set. if i remember correctly for the pump and FOB you're looking at about $200 per line. and the reverse option is great, definitely worth it.

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