Jacketed Fermentation Vessel Leak

[CCB]

I identified several leaks on a brand new jacketed fermentation vessel and was hoping for some input on the appropriate method of diagnosing and repairing. First, I'll explain my method of identifying the leak.

1. Pressurized vessels to 10 psi with CO2 through CIP arm.
2. Waited 5 minutes before inspecting.
3. Sprayed down all seams and weld points of tank with soapy water.
4. Found bubbles...

The leaks were coming from the welded seams on the external shell which, correct me if I'm wrong, means there is a leak on both the interior and exterior. I also removed the glycol feed line (has not been filled yet with glycol) and it was pressurized and bleeding CO2. Again, correct me if I'm wrong, but the only way this is possible is if the jacket integrity has been compromised.

We contacted the equipment manufacturer and they said they would send someone to repair. While I'm happy to hear this, I have a hard time believing they will be able to provide a quality repair without removing the exterior shell, fixing the inner layer and then replacing the exterior. Is that correct? Is there a better method of repairing that I'm simply not aware of? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[nohandslance]

Manufacturer Pressure Test

All reputable fabricators pressure test their products prior to shipping. If it is a transport issue you should be compensated on the Ins. they should have provided.
Delivery inspection is a must.
Cut out of a tank jacket is not uncommon, so not to worry. Done it on a 40 and 90 bbl FV.

Lance
Rebel Malting Co.
Reno, Nevada USA

[TGTimm]

Yep, this happens--but preferably not on a brand-new vessel!

Removing the insulation jacket isn't a big deal--welding it back on and having it look good and keep the insulation dry is a big deal. Hopefully, the manufacturer sends out someone capable of doing it right.

Is the glycol jacket supported in the field? That is, is the jacket just a single sheet of metal welded at the edges, or is it dimpled with spot-welds at the dimples, coiled and welded, etc? If it's a simple, unsupported jacket, expect it to leak again in the future--probably near future. Flexing of the unsupported field stresses the welds along the edges, causing them to fail. We had two used ferms fail due to this and had to replace the simple jackets with dimpled ones. One developed an interior leak, which meant dumping a batch of beer.

Be sure you witness a full pressure test before the jacket is re-installed. Use leak detector (or soapy water) on all welded seams to be absolutely sure it's tight. Check all welds inside the vessel. Are they perfectly smooth and polished? Do any of them leak? If the welds aren't clean, or they leak to the inside, it may be time to ask for a refund. These problems can be fixed, but it's brand-new....

[TiminOz]

Who were the tanks purchased from?

[TGTimm]

Whoah--I didn't read your initial post carefully enough (Friday and all)! It's leaking from the inside? On a brand new fermenter?

This is totally unacceptable. Either no QC or no sh*ts to give. I would demand a full refund and find someone who can make a good can the first try (there are lots and lots of those in the States). We have 9 fermenters from 2 different domestic manufacturers, and have been through another half-dozen over the years, and have never experienced anything like this.

[MoffatMatty]

Hi guys, this is my first time posting on this forum & I hope it was under better circumstances.
I have recently converted my bar into a small brewpub on Australia's Sunshine Coast. I have only just realized that one of my fermenters is leaking glycol in a fine mist spray on the inside of the tank. I have tried to contact the manufacturer but can't get hold of them. I am not very happy as the equipment is brand new and I can't really afford any loss of production as I am struggling to keep up. Any advice much appreciated.
Cheers Matt

[Gbbc]

The leak could be due to several things. The worst one is if it is close to a weld where the wall became paper thin due to over polishing. If you would try to fix this by re welding, it will just keep on opening up bigger and bigger. Get a GOOD welder in to see if he can fix it

[gitchegumee]

No other explanation...

Both of these examples are from garbage equipment manufacturers. Do us all a favor and call them out on it here on this forum so nobody else has to "save money" on their crap equipment again. This is totally unacceptable for new equipment and should be rejected. I wouldn't ask for a "fix" if they couldn't do it right the first time. Just get out of this mess as soon as you can.

BTW, you should not use CO2 or any other gas for pressure testing. You should HYDROTEST the tank. As the name implies, it is done with water. Make sure the water is at ambient temperature, remove the SRV and cap the tank, purge all gas from the vessel as you fill with water. Hydrotests on brewery equipment are usually 1.5 times the working pressure. Normally 22.5psi in US. Leaks are found quickly as pressure drops are fast when water leaks--as opposed to air which drops pressure slowly. Good luck and hopefully we can blacklist crap equipment manufacturers in the future. Nobody should have to deal with this sort of issue.

[Gbbc]

I totally agree with Philip. I can see why some people think buying directly from China as a good idea, but it still is a masive gamble with your money. We have only dealt with Premiere Stainless and can't be happier. Something goes wrong, I call, they fix it. This is even after 3 years of installing the equipment!

For some mysterious reason people in general prefer to buy 4 pairs of cheap work boots and pay $400 over 2 years rather than $200 for a pair that may last 2 years

[TiminOz]

Any brewing equipment company selling pressure vessels in Australia are required to have the drawing certified by an Australian engineer confirm that the design is built to AS1210 or the equivalent ASME VIII and have those drawings registered with WorkCover (most often in NSW as it covers all the states) and they also need to furnish you with a material date form or U1A form that is issued by the factory when the tanks are built that confirms the drawing number and the test results. This form is then used for plant registration required by the brewery if your states WorkCover requires it. Each for has the individual tanks serial number matched to the serial number on the tank. At least then you know that what have meets Australian Standards and if used correctly should have a long life.

[MoffatMatty]

I totally agree with Philip. I can see why some people think buying directly from China as a good idea, but it still is a masive gamble with your money. We have only dealt with Premiere Stainless and can't be happier. Something goes wrong, I call, they fix it. This is even after 3 years of installing the equipment!

For some mysterious reason people in general prefer to buy 4 pairs of cheap work boots and pay $400 over 2 years rather than $200 for a pair that may last 2 years

The thing is, I didn't buy direct from China. I bought this equipment from someone in Australia who is fairly prominent in the craft beer industry here

[gitchegumee]

"Fairly prominent"?

For good work? If they build equipment that leaks and won't answer the phone when you try to reach them, then maybe the word your looking for is "fairly dodgy". Give them an ultimatum and then call them out. I want to know who I should NOT be dealing with. Call it a community service that your doing. Bet they were real nice to you before they had your money.

[TGTimm]

A serious hazard to safety and life.

Since these vessels--which should be registered, tested pressure vessels, are showing leaks right off the line, I seriously doubt any post-production testing was done. If a vessel carrying 15 psi (1 bar) of CO2 in the headspace ruptures, anyone nearby will be at serious risk of injury or death. See the death from a ruptured keg--which had a tiny fraction of the volume of a fermenter.

Buy well, buy once. Be safe.

[MoffatMatty]

I have been in contact with the supplier of the equipment. He wants me to organise for a welder to fix the tank. I actually think that the tank should be replaced


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[MoffatMatty]

Thanks for all of your help guys. My tank is being replaced


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