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Single Wall Bright Tanks in Walk-in CIP

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  • Single Wall Bright Tanks in Walk-in CIP

    Hey all. Was wondering if anyone had any tips on CIPing single walled brights in a walk in cooler.

    Right now I've used 1,2,3oz/gal Acid#6 with mixed results. We usually get a decent ring of krausen at the top of the beer level even after 45 minutes. Thinking about venting the C02 and doing a pbw. But that doesn't seem ideal.

    We aren't currently filtering. This seems like a pretty common setup for a brew pub. Any tips?

    Thanks
    George

  • #2
    Use CIP caustic solutions. 20 min recirculate and it will be spotless. It would also be a good idea to get a nitric/phosphoric blend to prevent any mineral build up.

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    • #3
      I used 8 oz acid 5 in a half barrel of water. worked well. .5 oz per gallon.
      david

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      • #4
        Are you able to cold crash your beer before sending it to the serving tanks? We do not filter either, but we transfer cold with finings to our brites, never have had a krausen ring in the brite.

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        • #5
          Hey, when you say "decent ring of krausen at the top of the beer level", is this something you see before you start cleaning? Do you transfer cold or warm? How do you carbonate your beer?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by jebzter View Post
            Are you able to cold crash your beer before sending it to the serving tanks? We do not filter either, but we transfer cold with finings to our brites, never have had a krausen ring in the brite.
            Right now we are yes. Though no finings. Something to consider I suppose. What are you using for finings?


            Originally posted by Gbbc View Post
            Hey, when you say "decent ring of krausen at the top of the beer level", is this something you see before you start cleaning? Do you transfer cold or warm? How do you carbonate your beer?
            Yeah the ring is there before we start cleaning. We transfer beer in cold. Unfiltered, no finings. We carbonate with a 10in stone.

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            • #7
              We use Nalco 1072, same thing as Biofine Clear. If you are able to get the beer down in the low 30's, you shouldn't get a krausen ring, krausen ring would seem to indicate that you have some measure of fermentation going in the serving tank. You are probably also having problems with your cleaner getting too cold in the serving room and cleaning action is therefore reduced.

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              • #8
                The reason why I was asking how you are carbonating your beer is because somewhere on this forum there is a thread on carbonation. Someone mentioned that a good way to know if you are carbonating the wrong way is to look for a fob ring in your BBT.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Gbbc View Post
                  The reason why I was asking how you are carbonating your beer is because somewhere on this forum there is a thread on carbonation. Someone mentioned that a good way to know if you are carbonating the wrong way is to look for a fob ring in your BBT.
                  Currently reading through the mountain of material on carbonation on the forum, do you remember which thread talked about the fob ring?

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                  • #10
                    I have the same suspicions as Gbbc - a ring at the beer level indicating foam was present is usually a sign that you aren't getting CO2 absorption (or incomplete absorption) during your carbonating process. A couple questions:

                    - When you transfer your beer into the brite tank is it at the same temperature as you walk-in cooler? Or does it have to go through a significant temp drop once in the tank to reach your cooler temp? On our 3bbl nano system we usually see our beers being in the mid 40's at transfer and down to 38°F (cooler temp) the next morning. We don't really start putting gas through the stone until it has reached that colder temperature.

                    - When you are kegging/packaging off of your brite tank, are you displacing the beer with CO2 through the top arm/sprayball or through the stone? If you can put straight head pressure on the tank, rather than push through the stone, this will also help reduce foaming in the tank.

                    - And finally, when you clean your tank are you hitting it with water first, either through the spray ball or with a hose through the manway? A quick water spray may knock down some of that residue and allow your acid to do a better job before it gets a big soil load in it.

                    Good luck and Cheers!

                    Tom

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by BemidjiBrewing View Post
                      I have the same suspicions as Gbbc - a ring at the beer level indicating foam was present is usually a sign that you aren't getting CO2 absorption (or incomplete absorption) during your carbonating process. A couple questions:

                      - When you transfer your beer into the brite tank is it at the same temperature as you walk-in cooler? Or does it have to go through a significant temp drop once in the tank to reach your cooler temp? On our 3bbl nano system we usually see our beers being in the mid 40's at transfer and down to 38°F (cooler temp) the next morning. We don't really start putting gas through the stone until it has reached that colder temperature.

                      - When you are kegging/packaging off of your brite tank, are you displacing the beer with CO2 through the top arm/sprayball or through the stone? If you can put straight head pressure on the tank, rather than push through the stone, this will also help reduce foaming in the tank.

                      - And finally, when you clean your tank are you hitting it with water first, either through the spray ball or with a hose through the manway? A quick water spray may knock down some of that residue and allow your acid to do a better job before it gets a big soil load in it.

                      Good luck and Cheers!

                      Tom

                      -More or less the same temp. 41F in the FVs usually and 40F in the cooler usually. We don't carb until its at temp. I've been thinking about dropping CC temp to maybe 37F or 35F?

                      -We add pressure through the cip arm

                      -I've tried this with a spray and with the cip ball, with warm and cold water, hasnt helped.

                      As an aside, the ring of foam has been consistent through out all of our brews, but for the last two, we've experienced a significant amount of foaming during the Fv to Btt transfer. Which is weird since we aren't carbonating in the FV, and we are usually keeping the btt at around 2-3psi during the transfer. Is this unusual?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by thrillhouse900 View Post
                        -More or less the same temp. 41F in the FVs usually and 40F in the cooler usually. We don't carb until its at temp. I've been thinking about dropping CC temp to maybe 37F or 35F?

                        -We add pressure through the cip arm

                        -I've tried this with a spray and with the cip ball, with warm and cold water, hasnt helped.

                        As an aside, the ring of foam has been consistent through out all of our brews, but for the last two, we've experienced a significant amount of foaming during the Fv to Btt transfer. Which is weird since we aren't carbonating in the FV, and we are usually keeping the btt at around 2-3psi during the transfer. Is this unusual?
                        Problem #1 that I see is inadequate cold crashing. To be very effective, you need to get colder, 32-33 range to even have a decent settling of yeast and haze. Yeast that are still in suspension, along with the haze particles will form a krausen ring. You will need to hold it that cold for a few days, to get the yeast out, then add finings on the way to the brite and maintain that temperature for 24 more hours. You will have clear beer and less crap on the walls of your tank.

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