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  • CIP Guidance for a rookie...

    Hi guys,

    Been doing a lot of reading on CIP. Right now I'm just playing, as i could realistically just take the top off my 2BBL BBT and pressure wash it, but I'm trying to learn.

    Last eve I kegged and tried to CIP my BBT as we don't have anything more to TF into it right now. I ran five star acid 5 at about 100F for 20+ minutes. pH was 1.9. I run a standard size spray ball on a pump with enough flow to spin it nicely.

    At the end there was still a "muck" ring around the previous beer level, and some schmutz in the bottom. The bottom part is my fault cause I used too much volume and there was a pool in the bottom. Everything else was nice and shiny.

    Would a caustic be a better choice?? Maybe five star HD #2 caustic?? or another choice??

    Thanks!!

    -J.
    Jeremy Reed
    Co-Founder and President, assistant brewer, amateur electrician, plumber, welder, refrigeration tech, and intermediately swell fella
    The North of 48 Brewing Company
    Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    www.no48.ca

  • #2
    Originally posted by Jer View Post
    Hi guys,

    Been doing a lot of reading on CIP. Right now I'm just playing, as i could realistically just take the top off my 2BBL BBT and pressure wash it, but I'm trying to learn.

    Last eve I kegged and tried to CIP my BBT as we don't have anything more to TF into it right now. I ran five star acid 5 at about 100F for 20+ minutes. pH was 1.9. I run a standard size spray ball on a pump with enough flow to spin it nicely.

    At the end there was still a "muck" ring around the previous beer level, and some schmutz in the bottom. The bottom part is my fault cause I used too much volume and there was a pool in the bottom. Everything else was nice and shiny.

    Would a caustic be a better choice?? Maybe five star HD #2 caustic?? or another choice??

    Thanks!!

    -J.
    Hi Jer,
    I would suggest to start with a hot water rinse of the tank. Hotter the better. Then run something like 5 Star Chemical's PBW. After that (and a quick rinse), run Acid 5. Follow up (after a burst rinse), with Star San.
    Luck to ya'

    Prost!
    Dave
    Glacier Brewing Company
    406-883-2595
    info@glacierbrewing.com

    "who said what now?"

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by GlacierBrewing View Post
      Hi Jer,
      I would suggest to start with a hot water rinse of the tank. Hotter the better. Then run something like 5 Star Chemical's PBW. After that (and a quick rinse), run Acid 5. Follow up (after a burst rinse), with Star San.
      Luck to ya'

      Prost!
      Dave
      Ok Dave. I'll give that a go. You think PBW is nasty enough to not have to scrub manually??

      I did do a rinse. Not crazy hot, but about 140. I could ramp that up some.

      Thanks!!
      Jeremy Reed
      Co-Founder and President, assistant brewer, amateur electrician, plumber, welder, refrigeration tech, and intermediately swell fella
      The North of 48 Brewing Company
      Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

      www.no48.ca

      Comment


      • #4
        PBW will work a lot better than acid 5 for CIP. If you use it hot enough 130-140 you shouldn't have to do any scrubbing. You can use 140f water for your rinse, you just have to rinse long enough/with enough water for your tank jackets to be about the same temp. I've been mixing in a 1/2 oz or so of caustic in my Brew-R-EZ(basically PBW) solution for even better cleaning results. Never have to scrub. (Make sure you wear a respirator when dealing with powdered caustic.) and make sure you drain all the Co2 out of the tank before running caustic (caustic reacts with Co2). Also make sure caustic is fully mixed before adding to the tank, caustic will corrode stainless in very high concentration.
        Last edited by Junkyard; 03-11-2017, 03:39 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Junkyard View Post
          PBW will work a lot better than acid 5 for CIP. If you use it hot enough 130-140 you shouldn't have to do any scrubbing. You can use 140f water for your rinse, you just have to rinse long enough/with enough water for your tank jackets to be about the same temp. I've been mixing in a 1/2 oz or so of caustic in my Brew-R-EZ(basically PBW) solution for even better cleaning results. Never have to scrub. (Make sure you wear a respirator when dealing with powdered caustic.) and make sure you drain all the Co2 out of the tank before running caustic (caustic reacts with Co2). Also make sure caustic is fully mixed before adding to the tank, caustic will corrode stainless in very high concentration.
          Thanks for that.

          What caustic product are you using?? Is that 1/2oz per gallon of CIP water??

          Same mix to wash kegs??

          I'm not fancy enough right now to try and conserve co2...haha

          -J.
          Jeremy Reed
          Co-Founder and President, assistant brewer, amateur electrician, plumber, welder, refrigeration tech, and intermediately swell fella
          The North of 48 Brewing Company
          Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

          www.no48.ca

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Jer View Post
            Thanks for that.

            What caustic product are you using?? Is that 1/2oz per gallon of CIP water??

            Same mix to wash kegs??

            I'm not fancy enough right now to try and conserve co2...haha

            -J.
            Just a 5 gallon bucket of sodium hydroxide from Duda diesel is what I'm using. 1/2 oz per 5 gallons, and I'll mix that with about 6 oz per 5 gallon of brew er ez.

            Maybe I'm misunderstanding you but, It's not about conserving co2, I said to drain the co2 so you don't have a chemical reaction because co2 is heavier than air and will remain in your tank during CIP unless you take the proper steps to drain it. I usually leave the man way open and take the racking arm out of the port to let it drain before cycling caustic. You can usually feel the co2 flowing out with your hand when you take the port out.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Junkyard View Post
              Just a 5 gallon bucket of sodium hydroxide from Duda diesel is what I'm using. 1/2 oz per 5 gallons, and I'll mix that with about 6 oz per 5 gallon of brew er ez.

              Maybe I'm misunderstanding you but, It's not about conserving co2, I said to drain the co2 so you don't have a chemical reaction because co2 is heavier than air and will remain in your tank during CIP unless you take the proper steps to drain it. I usually leave the man way open and take the racking arm out of the port to let it drain before cycling caustic. You can usually feel the co2 flowing out with your hand when you take the port out.
              Sorry, yes, i was being a smart ass..... I know about the caustic in CO2 issue. Correct me if I'm wrong though, big big breweries CIP tanks with CO2 in place to conserve it, no??

              Just found out today that a local micro uses an Eco lab product called pipeline PLX, chlorinated caustic detergent. Seems to be a million ways to skin this cat...
              Last edited by Jer; 03-11-2017, 05:24 PM.
              Jeremy Reed
              Co-Founder and President, assistant brewer, amateur electrician, plumber, welder, refrigeration tech, and intermediately swell fella
              The North of 48 Brewing Company
              Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

              www.no48.ca

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jer View Post
                Sorry, yes, i was being a smart ass..... I know about the caustic in CO2 issue. Correct me if I'm wrong though, big big breweries CIP tanks with CO2 in place to conserve it, no??

                Just found out today that a local micro uses an Eco lab product called pipeline PLX, chlorinated caustic detergent. Seems to be a million ways to skin this cat...
                Yes Ive heard chlorinated caustic is good stuff. I haven't heard about big breweries doing that with co2 so that's probably why I didn't get it but now that you mention it I wouldn't be surprised if big breweries found a way around it- at least for bright tanks. For fermenters it wouldn't make sense.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Contact your local Birko chemical agent and pick up some Ultra-Niter, Cell-R-Mastr, X-Puma, and Birk-Ox. Ultra-Niter is an excellent nitric acid cleaner, Cell-R-Master is a non caustic cleaner like PBW. X-Puma is a detergent additive you can add to the acid to boost its cleaning power, and Birk-Ox is a stellar no-foam sanitizer. I've found the best process to clean brites is to first thoroughly rinse with hot (140) water to loosen that muck. You will want to continually flush with fresh water as that stuff will clog your sprayball. Next is a wash with acid/X-Puma blend at 140, then rinse until pH is neutral. Finally rinse with cold sanitizer. If you have a decent cip cart you can do all of this with co2 still in the tank, otherwise you'll just need to purge it. Same process for fermenters, just add the Cell-R-Mastr after the acid, no rinse in between the two. If you do have to drain the co2 from the tank you might as well manually scrub with a brush before the chemicals go in. Cheers!


                  Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mtnbrewer99 View Post
                    Contact your local Birko chemical agent and pick up some Ultra-Niter, Cell-R-Mastr, X-Puma, and Birk-Ox. Ultra-Niter is an excellent nitric acid cleaner, Cell-R-Master is a non caustic cleaner like PBW. X-Puma is a detergent additive you can add to the acid to boost its cleaning power, and Birk-Ox is a stellar no-foam sanitizer. I've found the best process to clean brites is to first thoroughly rinse with hot (140) water to loosen that muck. You will want to continually flush with fresh water as that stuff will clog your sprayball. Next is a wash with acid/X-Puma blend at 140, then rinse until pH is neutral. Finally rinse with cold sanitizer. If you have a decent cip cart you can do all of this with co2 still in the tank, otherwise you'll just need to purge it. Same process for fermenters, just add the Cell-R-Mastr after the acid, no rinse in between the two. If you do have to drain the co2 from the tank you might as well manually scrub with a brush before the chemicals go in. Cheers!


                    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                    Thank you!!!
                    Jeremy Reed
                    Co-Founder and President, assistant brewer, amateur electrician, plumber, welder, refrigeration tech, and intermediately swell fella
                    The North of 48 Brewing Company
                    Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

                    www.no48.ca

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Has anyone here used the Sterox cleaner from G.W. Kent? It's a chlorine free cleaner and has an oxygen action like oxy clean. I use it for my homebrew carboys and plan on trying it in 3 BBL fermenters as a cleaner. I know it works great in the glass carboys.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mtnbrewer99 View Post
                        Contact your local Birko chemical agent and pick up some Ultra-Niter, Cell-R-Mastr, X-Puma, and Birk-Ox. Ultra-Niter is an excellent nitric acid cleaner, Cell-R-Master is a non caustic cleaner like PBW. X-Puma is a detergent additive you can add to the acid to boost its cleaning power, and Birk-Ox is a stellar no-foam sanitizer. I've found the best process to clean brites is to first thoroughly rinse with hot (140) water to loosen that muck. You will want to continually flush with fresh water as that stuff will clog your sprayball. Next is a wash with acid/X-Puma blend at 140, then rinse until pH is neutral. Finally rinse with cold sanitizer. If you have a decent cip cart you can do all of this with co2 still in the tank, otherwise you'll just need to purge it. Same process for fermenters, just add the Cell-R-Mastr after the acid, no rinse in between the two. If you do have to drain the co2 from the tank you might as well manually scrub with a brush before the chemicals go in. Cheers!


                        Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
                        This, except I would use BruREze instead of CellRMastr. BruREze is a little cheaper and is intended for warmer temps, CellRMastr is formulated for cooler temps, like you might find when you are trying to CIP a bride that is in a walk in.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by wailingguitar View Post
                          This, except I would use BruREze instead of CellRMastr. BruREze is a little cheaper and is intended for warmer temps, CellRMastr is formulated for cooler temps, like you might find when you are trying to CIP a bride that is in a walk in.
                          I think that's what Sterox is, for Cellar cold conditions. Exactly what I'll need as I plan on fermenting in single walls in a walk in. I know it does an excellent job cold on the glass carboys with a soak. Drops everything out nothing left from the ferment around the top of the carboy.

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