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  • Compressor Recommendations

    We are a small 7BBL start up with no ambitions to launch into a large canning or bottling line. We basically just need our compressor to run our brewhouse hydraulic valves. The spec sheet from Alpha Brewing Ops says we need 90PSI @ 3 SCFM.

    Does anyone have a experience or recommendations on a make/model for our needs?

    Cheers,
    Dustin Baker

    Owner/Brewer
    Roadmap Brewing Co.
    San Antonio, TX

  • #2
    Some... Installing a comp and pneumatic lines for start-up right now. Their keg washer requires 15+ CFM at 100# and the recommended tank size is 80 gallons. Our challenge is that the comp has to be in the brewing environment. Noise is an issue and try as I may I could not get a scroll compressor due to cost constraints. I would suggest that installing your comp out doors, if possible; would alleviate this issue. This comp is 240V single phase, so a circuit had to be dedicated for it, the run to the keg washer is nearly 50 feet so I am running 3/4" pneumatic line to reduce losses to the equipment. You will want oil free, dry air to those valves and like the system I'm currently doing I recommend a coalescing filter and a drying and particulate filter close to the compressor. I also recommend running hard drawn copper pipe that is clean and free of debris with silver soldered (not silver bearing solder) joints as you would an air conditioning HP refrigerant line, or if close and you have the $$$ Stainless. I have seen and am using a continuous aluminum tubing product which is sandwiched between two layers of polyethylene.

    The larger your tank, and the larger your supply lines, the more compressed air storage you have. That means your compressor runs less often.

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    • #3
      If you ever think you may run a keg washer or packaging line then I would buy something that can handle at least 15cfm @120 psi or around there. Usually that's about a 60-80 gallon tank with a 5 hp compressor motor (I'd recommend a 2 stage compressor). You will want a water/particle trap, oil coalescing filter, and regulators as needed. Don't be confused by oil free compressors that you see at the hardware store, they will not hold up to daily use. There is a variety of ways to plumb compressed air but here is a simple product http://www.rapidairproducts.com/page/kits available from several sources or direct . Basically it's special pex tube that is specifically designed for this use (don't use normal pex, it can blow up).

      If you can handle the compressor inside I would recommend it. During summer you would get way more water in your tank/lines due to increased humidity.

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      • #4
        sterile filter?

        Originally posted by hokus View Post
        If you ever think you may run a keg washer or packaging line then I would buy something that can handle at least 15cfm @120 psi or around there. Usually that's about a 60-80 gallon tank with a 5 hp compressor motor (I'd recommend a 2 stage compressor). You will want a water/particle trap, oil coalescing filter, and regulators as needed. Don't be confused by oil free compressors that you see at the hardware store, they will not hold up to daily use. There is a variety of ways to plumb compressed air but here is a simple product http://www.rapidairproducts.com/page/kits available from several sources or direct . Basically it's special pex tube that is specifically designed for this use (don't use normal pex, it can blow up).

        If you can handle the compressor inside I would recommend it. During summer you would get way more water in your tank/lines due to increased humidity.
        hokus thanks for the rec on that tubing system. That is really a great looking product to use. With your compressor set up, do you rec a specific water/particle trap/filter/regulator set up? Does it provide sterile air? Im looking for a filter that can with stand over 100psi. I would imagine most people who use compressed air with their keg washers would want sterile air for that process?

        Anyway, I am lost in the compressed air world at the moment and looking to get any product recommendations you might have!
        Thanks!

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        • #5
          You will want a larger compressor at some time in the future. Build your system with this in mind.

          We built our original system with 1/2" hard copper lines--and soft solder as there is no reason to use hard solder (brazing, silver solder) for a low-temp, moderate pressure system. Since our lines are undersized and long, I've had to install dispersed storage tanks--AKA surge tanks--at the heavy points of use, such as the keg washer and bottling line. These are simply compressor tanks located close to the equipment, fed at line pressure (125psi), with high-flow 1" regulators and 3/4" lines to the equipment. They work very well.

          More storage=less frequent compressor starts=longer motor life. Get the biggest reservoir you can afford.

          I've used just about everything for compressed air lines. The Rapidair PEX/Al/PEX is a very good product, but takes proprietary fittings, which seem to be made only in mild steel--potentially a rust problem in the brewery. I've used regular PEX water line, too, and have never had a failure. PEX and similar materials allow for a great degree of flexibility, ease, and speed of assembly compared to copper.

          At all costs, avoid using PVC, CPVC, ect. in your compressed air system. When these rigid plastic materials fail (and they will), they produce deadly shrapnel.

          We started with a single 5 hp reciprocating compressor, but outgrew it's capacity as we added equipment. We've since installed a second compressor, running in parallel. The new one is an Ingersol Rand 5 hp rotary vane comp, and I love it. The compressors live in my shop, and the damned old recip will startle the socks off you and stop all conversation when it starts up. I barely notice the rotary when it's running. Both have 60 gal. reservoirs, and are plumbed so both tanks are pressurized by both comps. The old recip is now a back-up, with the pressure switch start-up set a little higher than the cut-off of the rotary.

          Use good filters. An oil separator first, then a coarse filter, a microfilter if the air will be used for any process or keg washing, then, very important, a refrigerated air dryer. We started without the air dryer, and lived to regret it. Moisture in the air is death to controls and actuators. If you enjoy maintenance and have a good budget for it, disregard this recommendation. Some prefer to put the dryer between the comp and the tank to keep moisture out of the tank, but I'd rather feed the dryer on clean air--besides, my placement is much better for future modification, as in the second comp I added.

          So start with a well designed delivery and distribution system, with isolation valves at every branch and every place where the lines enter a new room for ease of maintenance and future modification. Over size the lines for your current needs--oversized lines also add storage to the system, which means the compressor runs less frequently, which means longer compressor motor life. 3/4" should be fine unless your lines are extremely long. Don't go overboard on the line pressure--125 psi is fine. Higher pressures limit your choices of line materials and add unneeded hazards to the brewery. Invest in good filters--any filter housing designed for compressed air will easily handle 125 psi. Dig into your pockets and start with a refrigerated air dryer. It will pay for itself, but you'll never know it if you don't run without one to begin with.
          Last edited by TGTimm; 12-28-2017, 10:39 AM.
          Timm Turrentine

          Brewerywright,
          Terminal Gravity Brewing,
          Enterprise. Oregon.

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