I'm about to start building a control panel for my fermenters and I'm looking for recommendations on which PID's to use.
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Originally posted by baer19d View PostI'm about to start building a control panel for my fermenters and I'm looking for recommendations on which PID's to use.
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I have one of these SOLO PID's on my keg washer really nice and also has rs485 communication so you can communicate with a computer or PLC for data logging. Automation directs tech line is very helpful with problems. https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ss_Controllers
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Originally posted by Rushstop View PostI have one of these SOLO PID's on my keg washer really nice and also has rs485 communication so you can communicate with a computer or PLC for data logging. Automation directs tech line is very helpful with problems. https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...ss_Controllers
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Another vote for the Fuji PXR line. In twenty years, I've had to replace two out of twelve in our control panel. The initial parameter set-up can be intimidating, so, if possible, have the vendor set them up for you.Timm Turrentine
Brewerywright,
Terminal Gravity Brewing,
Enterprise. Oregon.
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Thank for the info. I have another question. Since there's only one process pump on the chiller that supplies all the fermenters with glycol I'm going to need to install a relay per PID that will turn on the pump when the PID is calling for glycol correct?
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Originally posted by baer19d View PostThank for the info. I have another question. Since there's only one process pump on the chiller that supplies all the fermenters with glycol I'm going to need to install a relay per PID that will turn on the pump when the PID is calling for glycol correct?
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I'm only a garage expert here, but I think most quality (and even most knockoff) PIDs such as the Fuji and Solo mentioned will offer a model containing a built in relay. Usually rated up to about 10 amps, in varying voltages. Generally sufficient for the glycol solenoids/valves that would typically be used. If you want to switch a large amperage relay then I think you have to move into the separate Solid State Relay stuff. I'm sure someone with more knowledge can chime in on that part.
As stated by GlennL, your chiller should basically run constantly around the loop with drop downs for the tanks. On the drop downs you should have an individual tank solenoid/motorized ball valve. You will need a bypass valve/regulator on the loop to make sure you don't dead-head the chiller pump when all tank solenoids/valves are closed and to regulate the flow volume. Chiller will generally come with a control of some sort (maybe a Ranco A419 or the like) to regulate the temperature.
I second AutomationDirect.
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I have seen chillers that have a pressure transducer on the glycol output that is hooked to a VFD. When the transducer detects a deadhead/high pressure spike the VFD slows or shuts down the circulation pump.Joel Halbleib
Partner / Zymurgist
Hive and Barrel Meadery
6302 Old La Grange Rd
Crestwood, KY
www.hiveandbarrel.com
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I use dual pole relays for my setup so when the temp controller calls for cooling it activates the relay One pole of the relay powers and opens the 24v solenoid valve for the conical jacket that needs coolant and the other pole turns on the 240v pump in the chiller that pumps through the shared manifold...
any cheap relay pid with built in 10a relays or even ssr output control models should be using that output to power a larger relay or "contactor" for the actual valves and pumps...
in fact I would think a person would want to use an hysteresis temp controller and not an actual pid for this?Last edited by augiedoggy; 02-09-2018, 09:08 AM.
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Originally posted by augiedoggy View Postin fact I would think a person would want to use an hysteresis temp controller and not an actual pid for this?
I don't know that you would actually save anything from having the main chiller pump only kick on when calling for chilling, but it probably depends on the size of your cellar and chiller. We generally have at least one tank cooling at all times anyways. I would have concerns of the relay or contact failing due to constant switching. The VFD setup is interesting but again your dependent on no failures in the pressure transducer. In my general experience (both in and out of brewery) sensors fail a lot more often than working components such as elements, pumps, valves, ect. I often subscribe to the KISS method.
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Originally posted by darko View PostWhy not stick with simple temperature controller and K type (or similar) probe..?
http://www.ultra-nspi.com/informatio...le-comparison/
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