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  • Malpractice
    replied
    Slightly off topic, but currently in the same boat and attempting plot out venting scheme.
    Should the composition of the duct tubing matter? Seen previous recommendation that at least the first segment immediately leaving the kettle should be stainless - the remainder can be aluminum.

    can anyone comment on this?

    Leave a comment:


  • Sguterba
    replied
    Question RE: McMaster Carr “turbine vent spinner”?

    Hi there, does anyone have a part number or link to the McMaster Carr part mentioned in this thread?
    TIA!

    Leave a comment:


  • Crosley
    replied
    I have read through all of the posts that I could find on here regarding ventilation.

    I currently have the flat top Stout 3BBL kettle. I have the 6" outlet come out of the top of the tank and then it 90's to a sanitary tee with a drain. Above this TEE there was an inline 4" fan. From here the ducting went horizontal to the exterior of the building. As it turns out, I have burnt the inline fan (as it's not rated for the heat and its only 2' from the kettle top.

    Me current thinking is to install 6" SS liner pipe from the kettle directly to the outside wall. I would go up roughly 2' and then 90 towards the outside wall.
    1. Would a wall mount fan work? I am thinking of installing a wall mount fan to get the fan far enough away from the kettle to hopefully not burn it up. All of the fans I can find are only rated to 140F
    2. Should this pipe be horizontal? I was thinking of running is slightly downhill towards the wall to create a direct slope to drain and condensate. Other threads say that the vent should be diagonal upwards.
    3. Do I still need some sort of TEE with a drain to catch condensate if the pipe is running downhill.

    If you guys have any insight to these questions I would greatly appreciate it.

    Cheers,
    Andy

    Leave a comment:


  • Scotter
    replied
    Originally posted by zbrew2k View Post
    I think you will be pulling the kettle off the floor with that fan!

    Seriously--just VENT the kettle to the atmosphere, you don't need a fan for exhausting the kettle unless your vertical run is over ~20 feet.

    You could also condense the vapor stream with a simple water spray condenser. Route your Kettle stack to a drain right by the kettle. Plumb spray nozzles with 1/2 copper pipe into the stack. Use a ball valve to control the spray nozzle's flowrate. You neighbors will complain less about the smell, although there is a drawback of using more water in your brewery.

    B
    Could a condenser be set up with a very small pump to recirculate? I have been researching ventilation solutions using a hood, venting, etc., but this seems like the most economical way to set up a 3bbl electric system and eliminate build out costs. I understand it could be a locality concern, but is there any other reasons a hood/exhaust could be necessary with such a setup?

    Leave a comment:


  • Starcat
    replied
    Ventilation

    Plant ventilation, especially on a direct fired system is always a good idea.
    On direct fire, steam and burner exhaust are the same thing essentially.
    You have a collection hood above the system.
    1500 CFM may be a bit much for your setup but 800 may be just fine.
    If you can modulate it it might work out.
    Stainless might be considered overkill, but it will last forever.
    Depending on the design, the fan end motor bearing is what takes most of the abuse if its a typical vertical shaft upblast unit.
    Most of the budget fans of this type are aluminum which also works ok.
    Exact calculations for what you need are a matter of HVAC air balance equations that affect the total structure.
    IN this sect, most are throwing together what they feel will work out not based on a lot of maths.
    You will never any real static on the inlet side of such a fan that can be measured. It will be fractions of less than 0.5 inches WC.
    We are dealing here with air changes and moving vapor out.

    Leave a comment:


  • bjolu340
    replied
    Bumping old thread (sorry).

    What diameter vent pipes would you use to vent a 5 bbl boil kettle using the non-fan-natural pull method? In my case the kettle is literally next to the outside wall so with the exception of the elbow needed to go out through the wall, the pipes will be pretty much vertical.

    Leave a comment:


  • Moonlight
    replied
    Barometric dampeners can solve problems due to excessive draft. See McMaster-Carr or others.

    Leave a comment:


  • Diamond Knot
    replied
    Nice "out of the box" thinking there, Jay. Sounds like an idea I'll keep around in the back of my mind for future installations if I get in a pickle.

    Still having problems visualizing the "S" pipe, though................

    Leave a comment:


  • jay
    replied
    Fans in small Kettles

    Hi all,
    I wanted to tell you of an expirience of mine with a 20 barrel kettle. I took over the brewing reponsibilities at a small brewery and the flavor of the beer was at best merky. I replaced the galvanized stack with a stainless one, but I was still unhappy with my boil off volume. I added an S into the stack" the actual orientation was a horisontal S" and an attik fan on its out put(65.00 dollars). Later a flapper was added to the out put to control the the draw. The S configeration prevented the stack vapors from eating at the fan. The system functioned for more than a year with great results, and could be adjusted to produce the draw I needed. Cheap and it works.

    Graydon
    Last edited by jay; 08-20-2005, 05:49 PM. Reason: spelling

    Leave a comment:


  • Sir Brewsalot
    replied
    ...and the hotter the outside temperature, the lousier the draft becomes...grrrrr. At 95F (probably well over 110 on my black rubber roof), I've had to take the cap off the 30' stack to get the steam to move up and out. Hey, maybe I NEED A FAN!

    Also, it costs more and your local building code will likely require it, but you'll get lots less condensation in the stack if you double wall the flue vent. Keeps the room a bit cooler too.

    Cheers,
    Scott

    Leave a comment:


  • tarmadilo
    replied
    Something to consider: the higher you run your stack outside the building, the stronger the draft will pull your steam out.

    Really!

    Cheers, Tim

    Leave a comment:


  • lhall
    replied
    One more thing is to make sure you can collect any condensation before it runs back into the kettle. You should have a lip and a drain on top of the kettle, or some other way to prevent the condensation, which tastes like super bitter creamed corn, from draining back into the kettle.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sir Brewsalot
    replied
    Anybody else have any ventilation work that needs to be done? Sounds like Charles may have a company that is QUITE EAGER for work - maybe even creating some for themselves where it's not required?

    Doncha just hate that!

    S

    Leave a comment:


  • cbierb
    replied
    Thanks very much for all your input.

    Charles

    Leave a comment:


  • Diamond Knot
    replied
    Charles,

    Not seeing your installation, I'm only guessing as to the ability to slope the steam vent out. I'm still in with lhall and zbrew2k. Initially, I don't think you need a vent fan..............providing:

    1.) The horizontal run is VERY short. Otherwise, slope upward.

    2.) You're not trying to pass it through a dryer vent on the side of the building........the vent duct will run up the side of the building.


    The critical operating paramters for a fan is a minimum of 65 cfm and no higher static pressure than 8 inches Water Column (WC) or so..........13 inches absolute max.
    The blast gate you mention will throttle down the cfm of the fan but will not reduce the static pressure. The "some is good, more is better" doesn't really apply here. You're only creating 68 cu-ft of expansion in the kettle in the form of steam. 200 cfm fans won't make it go away faster than a 75 cfm fan.

    If 200 cfm is the smallest you can find, certainly gate it down, as you have chosen, and watch that static pressure rating before you buy. You don't want to pull a big vaccum on the boiling wort (excessive foaming), nor do you want to pull a big vaccum on the empty kettle while it's cooling (deformation/warping possibility).

    And that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

    Leave a comment:

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