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3.5bbl vs 5bbl single phase

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  • #16
    JC, thanks for the info.


    • #17
      I think when you consider that the boil uses all of the available heat from your total element kw to raise the temp to boil, but takes no where near as much current to maintain the boil.... especially if you can insulate or buy an insulated boil kettle AND use a condensate system for steam control. Condensate stacks on smaller systems force a significant decrease in electrical energy requirement for boiling verses an open kettle boil... I assume open kettle would be similar to fan exhausted.

      Just a thought. I was dorking out with a nuke (Navy term for someone who works in engineering on a ship with a reactor) and he got all excited that his steam knowledge translated into brewing equipment.



      • #18
        Originally posted by AGB View Post
        Hello Everyone,
        I'm at the point where I'll be ordering equipment. I had settled on a 3.5 electric system imported but the upgrade to 5bbl is just not that much more money. My concern is single phase power consumption. I assume the electricity to heat 5bbl is going to be considerably more and may be out of the question for anything above 3bbl when using single phase power. But, I am a bit in the dark. My other fear now is the cost to import with all the tariffs being applied to imported goods.
        Hello,My friend,
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        • #19
          Originally posted by NHBrewer23 View Post
          Good morning,

          I have created an energy cost comparison spreadsheet that I am sharing:

          I have broken-down the energy required to heat 3.5bbls and 5bbls of Wort. I have then added in the average electrical cost to illustrate how much you can expect to pay to boil wort for 1 hour.

          On the second page, I have done the same math but used natural gas as the energy source. You will see an incredible savings in your batch cost if you were to consider a direct-fire system over electric. The Midco EC200 would be a perfect burner for either system. It runs on 240v single-phase power.

          Anyone who checks the spreadsheet out is free to download it, edit it, and use it. The math is set up so that you just need to change the bbls to be boiled. All the math though is based on bringing the wort up to a boil in 1 hour and boiling for 1 hour. Let me know if you see any glaring errors. I did need to add an assumption as to how much energy the system would absorb and how much energy would be required to maintain a boil. Feel free to adjust these assumptions if needed.

          I just had a chance to look at this and found this spreadsheet has a lot of incorrect information on it that should be pointed out. For example it states gas and electric heat as both being 75% efficient. This is wrong.. an electric element is more than 99% efficient since all the heat produced is immersed directly into the liquid vs gas where a large portion of energy (up to 40% ) is wasted. plus you will have to address all the additional heat and gas exhaust in the room which = increased costs every time you brew. depending on whats already in place and layout the gas could be more expensive to operate.

          We have a sungood 3.5bbl boil kettle with 4 5500w elements and even at 60% duty cycle the boil is very strong with 112 gallons or wort.. If we went with gas we would have needed to build a room walling off the brew system from public access instead of just putting up a railing as the electric system is much easier to safeguard from ignorant patrons who might otherwise hurt themselves.
          Last edited by augiedoggy; 12-31-2018, 05:46 AM.