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NE IPA Dry Hopping Method

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  • liammckenna
    replied
    dry hop does not increase bitterness (Iso-alpha-acids) it does, however, increase hop flavour from captured essential oils, terpenes, terpenoids and other compounds from the hop additions post boil. These are all measurable with the right equipment

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  • Zucker Bee
    replied
    Originally posted by UnFermentable View Post

    Dry hopping does not effect IBU. Alpha acids are isomerized during the boil, and the amount isomerized is dependent on temperature and time.
    All the hops in our NEIPA is dropped in the FV at high krausen and -1P to FG for a total of 7#/bbl (mix cry and pellets) Lab results : 51 BUs!

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  • rileysbrewing
    replied
    Contrary to the contrarians, there has been some evidence showing that the stable haze can basically hang on to nonpolar aromatics so there is more to it than simply appearance. But there is also something to the appearance that customers are expecting so when they drop clear it can definitely be an issue.

    The past couple of hazies I've made have had some very solidly opaque haze that has not quickly dropped out (though we're only at ~4wks in package...). One was ~10% each wheat malt/oat malt/flaked oats, Imperial Juice yeast (London Ale III), Bru1/ElDo/Sabro hopped, another was ~14%/7%/7%, S-04 yeast, Centennial/Calypso/Bravo/Idaho 7 hopped. I have had hazies that dropped pretty clear, one being 15% wheat malt/14% flaked oats/Imperial Dryhop yeast (Brux Trois/Vermont blend). That one dropped more clear than my damn WCIPA usually does.

    It was said (by the sales rep so take it for what it's worth) that Bru1 can help contribute to a stable haze, and I've heard from another couple of brewers that Mosaic can have the opposite effect. I've also read that yeasts can contribute (or drop out) haze, not from lack of flocculation but from whatever it is the yeast produces that makes the haze stick around.

    If you're into "cheating" to get the stable haze there are techniques like adding fruit puree to the boil (for a pectin haze), or additives like "Spring Blanche" from Fermentis. Personally I love the science behind the haze and how we don't quite fully understand everything that is going on with these beers just yet. There's always something new to learn.

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  • stz
    replied
    How do you deal with hop creep? We have a lot of experience now seeing a stable gravity of 12 boot once dry hopped warm and I'm sick of packaging NEIPA's with a FG of 8. We were thinking of dumping more yeast before dry hopping and/or dry hopping a lower temperatures to limit yeast and enzyme activity, but it feels like we will just move the problem onto package. Understand cold storage, writing hops fade fast on the cans and packaging in plastic bags, but ... cheating? Too stuffy and set in my ways to dare to shatter the current paradigm? I joke. But yes, hop creep is real I tells ya.

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  • Rob C
    replied
    Take the word hazy out of your description. Sounds like you made a great beer. Does a NE IPA really need to look like a milkshake?

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  • Kzoorugger
    replied
    Also having the same experience

    I'm having the same issues with haze stability, starting to think that is water profile related. We have nothing to compare to because we are only one of two commercial breweries using the water source. I do have an ICP water profile but don't see anything that stands out. I've gone as far as using un-malted wheat on top of flaked oats for protein content and 3+lbs. per barrel dry hopping throughout fermentation. Conan yeast strain and various hop varieties. The beers taste great and and aren't clear but far from the milky appearance of some. Flavor profile is on point but at this point the consumer expects to see turbidity. Any thoughts?

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  • beachstatus
    replied
    Bringing this one back up...

    Ive been dealing with rapid precipitation (Haze drop out) on my NEIPA as well. All of the trials have tasted great and great aroma. Haze just drops out in a matter of day on the kegs. Brewed again 1/1/2020

    •Changed from flaked oats to white wheat - 22.5% of grain bill

    •First Wort Hopped with 1 lb - 1/2 Citra & 1/2 Mosaic

    •Whirlpooled @ 165ºF for 20 mins with 1 lb - 1/2 Citra & 1/2 Mosaic

    •Full sized starter of Omega DIPA ALE yeast

    •Dry Hopping 1lb of Nelson Sauvin 12% at High krausen

    Will update with photos and taste review. Hopefully i can get the haze to stay in this one.

    Cheers! 🍻

    Beach Leary
    Fat Rabbit Brewing Co.
    Tampa FL

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  • dark_s
    replied
    My brew with DH Saaz didn't gave biterness, as it has that herbal nose from Noble hop.
    I don't think perception can be simplify with numbers as IBU either.

    Sent from my GM 5 d using Tapatalk

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  • Ankurnapa
    replied
    Let’s take an example of Saaz !


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  • BlackLocustHops
    replied
    I would say that depending on the type of hops and amount there is a perceived bitterness increase.

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  • Ankurnapa
    replied
    You mean to say that there will not be any shift in IBU levels after adding hops to fermenter at any stage of fermentation.


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  • UnFermentable
    replied
    Originally posted by Ankurnapa View Post
    How to Predict Bu after Dry Hopping?
    Dry hopping does not effect IBU. Alpha acids are isomerized during the boil, and the amount isomerized is dependent on temperature and time.

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  • Ankurnapa
    replied
    Dry Hopping Calculation

    How to Predict Bu after Dry Hopping?

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  • Rob C
    replied
    My 1st dry hop is done from 1 to 2 degrees plato above desired finishing gravity. We drop in from top. You just got to be careful here you may want to drop in a 1/3 to 1/2 and cap to see how the yeast responds. If it blows up wait 15 min. and add the rest.

    We don't have problems losing haze for the first 2 months. We use flaked oats and flaked red wheat with American ale yeast.

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  • Jen
    replied
    Originally posted by wlw33 View Post
    +1 on this. I've been doing 1/2 of my dry hop addition on day 1 or 2 of fermentation, following the remainder of the DH post fermentation, prior to crashing for about 5 days. not only is the aroma improved but the difference in flavor is out of this world.
    As for keeping the beer hazy, i've been doing 30-40% wheat and 10-15% oats which seems to keep the beer from clearing up even sitting cold over a couple weeks
    We are also struggling with keeping haze in our NEIPA. My original recipe uses around 20% flaked oats, 4lb/bbl hops and London III yeast. Whirlpool about 40% hops, dry hop 40% 24-36 hours after yeast is pitched (we've been playing with the timing to see if that makes a difference) then 20% dry hops Cryo Pellets after FG is reached. For your wheat and oat additions, are these flaked? I just did a batch with 40% flaked oats, my efficiency tanked I'm guessing because of how gelatinous the mash was. I used rice hulls but maybe not enough. Never had a stuck mash, it was just different, very gooey.

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