Meheen users unite!

[gmartin3]

Meheen CO2 Valve

We noticed that our 1995 safecracker meheen allows a small amount of compressed air to enter in the actuated CO2 valve body, has anyone replaced this with a locally sourced different valve? There is no markings of any kind on the valve.

[andrewdahm]

Sudden, Bizarre and Debilitating

We have a late-90s model 4-head Meheen that was updated from an F to an H (or the other way around, I can't remember which) some time last year. It's been a total workhorse for us since 2010 and has had its share of problems, but we've lately been totally confounded by what seems to be a pressure leak/suction problem that arose during a sani cycle the other day. I noticed right away that the cycle didn't *sound* right...it had this kind of tired, sighing sound coming out the speed valve gas-off tube instead of the usual crisp, staccato chop. Lots of air bubbles in the fill line, bottles not filling, machine not getting sanitized. You could see the fluid bouncing down the fill line out of the manifold with every pulse and just traces of sani flowing down the fill tubes.

We replaced the pump and that did not solve the problem.

If you block the gas off tube from the speed valve, that bad sound goes away but a pressure build-up hisses from the snift valve.

All our valves seem to be working as they're supposed to.

The power supply to the machine is sufficient.

If you unhook the snift hose from the snift valve hose barb the sani cycle functions much better and sounds fine, but still no fluid escapes the eductors or speed valve.

We determined there was probably a mechanical problem in the machined part of the snift valve--replaced it this morning. Problem persists.

We're at standstill and wit's end here, folks, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Devin
French Broad Brewery
Asheville, NC

[EricVT]

Off-gas tube troubles

We have a 2010 Merlin meheen. We had an incident where one of our off-gas tubes came off and slide off the fill tube into one of our bottles. This was around a year ago and seemed like a isolated incident. But as of late its been occurring with much more regularity, as in every half pallet or so. The problem is not isolated to a single fill tube but rather all of them intermittently. Has anybody had similar experiences, and if so did you find any remedy for the problem short of purchasing a new fill head?

Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time

Eric Van Tassel
The Brew Kettle Production Works
eric@thebrewkettle.com
1-440-334-8132

[sopbeer]

crown pin delay, crowns not dropping for capping

We have been having problems with the new design of the crown pin bar. At random the pins that release crowns to the crowning bar move in slow motion thus not allowing the crown to drop in time for crowning. Essentially the crowning bar comes down without a crown and the crown ends up on the deck. Last run we had 9 cases come off without crowns. At this rate we are going broke running this damn machine. We have adjusted the air flow to the feed which helped but still face the problem. Todays run; 2 cases without crowns, I might as well take a C note and flush it down the toilet. We had the old crown pin bar but replacing the pins so many times cause the threads on the bar to wear out and we replaced with the updated model. We didn't have problems with the old model.

From what it looks like to me the new design doesn't have enough air flowing through the bar to operate consistently thus the randomness of pin movement from open to close. It happens randomly across all chutes. It seems to cycle but is still random. I get 10 to 15 cases off the machine then bam no crowns over a couple bottles on consecutive rows. It runs fine again then happens at a periodic point again. Sometimes one bottle sometimes 3 bottles. The chutes are full and we are running nearly 75% open on the adjustment valve, in fact probably too fast, but if I slow it down the performance degrades and more bottles come through without crowns. It is unacceptable loss.

Anyone seen something similar and has a solution? We greased up the pins and chutes this didn't solve the problem. If I run the crown in manual mode I can watch it run slow periodically. There is something wrong either with the design or somewhere else in the machine. It is not the beer causing the problem nor was it with the rest of the problems we have had with this machine.

[GlacierBrewing]

We have been having problems with the new design of the crown pin bar. At random the pins that release crowns to the crowning bar move in slow motion thus not allowing the crown to drop in time for crowning. Essentially the crowning bar comes down without a crown and the crown ends up on the deck. Last run we had 9 cases come off without crowns. At this rate we are going broke running this damn machine. We have adjusted the air flow to the feed which helped but still face the problem. Todays run; 2 cases without crowns, I might as well take a C note and flush it down the toilet. We had the old crown pin bar but replacing the pins so many times cause the threads on the bar to wear out and we replaced with the updated model. We didn't have problems with the old model.

From what it looks like to me the new design doesn't have enough air flowing through the bar to operate consistently thus the randomness of pin movement from open to close. It happens randomly across all chutes. It seems to cycle but is still random. I get 10 to 15 cases off the machine then bam no crowns over a couple bottles on consecutive rows. It runs fine again then happens at a periodic point again. Sometimes one bottle sometimes 3 bottles. The chutes are full and we are running nearly 75% open on the adjustment valve, in fact probably too fast, but if I slow it down the performance degrades and more bottles come through without crowns. It is unacceptable loss.

Anyone seen something similar and has a solution? We greased up the pins and chutes this didn't solve the problem. If I run the crown in manual mode I can watch it run slow periodically. There is something wrong either with the design or somewhere else in the machine. It is not the beer causing the problem nor was it with the rest of the problems we have had with this machine.

Hi Trent,
Start by removing the little brass mufflers located around the Meheen. Degrease them. While they are soaking, run the unit and see if the pins performance improves. If so, you had clogged mufflers. If not, ensure you have a quality air regulator/filter installed to catch any moisture in your compressed air feed. Also, check with Meheen to make sure you are using the correct type of air compressor. Hope this helps you
Prost!
Dave

[lhall]

It could also be a sticking solenoid valve. Try cleaning or replacing the MAC valve for the pins.

[fossil.cove]

Looking to get some experience with a Meheen

Hey guys,

Love the thread here, very informative. We recently purchased a 1997 Model 4 head 12 oz. filler. I have been in the same room as a few of these bad boys, but it was more a visit so we didn't actually get down and dirty with them. We are a small start-up located in Fayetteville, AR and are very much looking forward to getting some six packs on the shelves. It seems our machine has been through several different owners, and according to Dave was retooled at some point. I would love the chance to get my hands on a fully operational machine to gain some experience and knowledge in order to have a better idea of what I'm doing when we fire ours up. If anybody is within a reasonable distance (or cheap flight) and would be willing to let me come hang out and ask a million questions for a couple days it would be immensely helpful!

Please e-mail me back with any ideas. Thanks everyone.

Ben Mills
Fossil Cove Brewing Co.
Fayetteville, AR, 72703
479-644-4601
fossilcovebrewing@gmail.com

[Port Huron]

Capper Bar causing headaches!

Hi All,

I've got a 2011 6-head, and I'm wondering if anyone has had issues with their capping bar -- Specifically, the capping action seems like it has gotten gradually louder and more violent. (like deafeningly loud, along with shooting bottles off the back end of the machine). I have also noticed that when I take the air off the machine, the Capping Cylinders (the big ones) don't drop freely like they originally did. Seems like the cylinders get stuck (uneven motion), and the only way to drop the bar fully (to get the stoppers out for cleaning) is to use a mallet.

Talked to an engineer at Meheen yesterday, and he suggested making sure the mufflers are clean, air filter is clean, and that I have enough air. Check, check, and check. Same everything as when I first started running this machine, but it is getting more 'angry' as time goes on. I've seen a friend's 6-head operate, and it's as quiet as can be when it comes to the crowning procedure. What am I doing wrong, and how can I get this thing quieted down?

Any advice is much appreciated. Has anyone else seen this???

Thanks,

Tanner Brethorst
Port Huron Brewing Co.
Wisconsin Dells, WI
porthuronbeer@gmail.com

[BrewinLou]

Sounds like it is time to order the new gasket kits for both of your crowner bar cylinders. I would also check bottle alignment, railing, and the ram cylinder. Run the manual over ride and check that all valves are working clean. There is a tiny air weep hole on the side of every valve actuator. You can put your finger close to that hole and feel a puff of air come out if they are working properly. They can get dirty and block up. Clean it out and put a drop of pneumatic oil in the inside where the spring is. Good luck.

[tschafer]

capper noise

Sounds like it is time to order the new gasket kits for both of your crowner bar cylinders. I would also check bottle alignment, railing, and the ram cylinder. Run the manual over ride and check that all valves are working clean. There is a tiny air weep hole on the side of every valve actuator. You can put your finger close to that hole and feel a puff of air come out if they are working properly. They can get dirty and block up. Clean it out and put a drop of pneumatic oil in the inside where the spring is. Good luck.

Have you by chance changed bottle mfgrs? we noticed a huge difference in the noise level of the capping process when we bought bottles from a different manufacturer. Don't ask me why but the difference was amazing. We thought at first we had a problem, but went to a pallet of the other bottles and the everything was much quieter.

[Port Huron]

Sounds like it is time to order the new gasket kits for both of your crowner bar cylinders. I would also check bottle alignment, railing, and the ram cylinder. Run the manual over ride and check that all valves are working clean. There is a tiny air weep hole on the side of every valve actuator. You can put your finger close to that hole and feel a puff of air come out if they are working properly. They can get dirty and block up. Clean it out and put a drop of pneumatic oil in the inside where the spring is. Good luck.

How can I tell that the gaskets are the problem? I can't find any leaks using windex/soapy water. Also, it appears that I have a new style of actuator. Pretty modern looking -- the manual actuation button is there, but no weep hole -- anywhere. Mufflers are clean too. Would photos of these parts be useful for you guys?

Also -- checked the bottles -- measures out to about 1/32" taller than our last order (same company). This still doesn't explain the 'sticking' I'm experiencing in the capping cylinders.

Keep the ideas coming -- I may be missing something in the previous explanations.

Thanks,

Tanner B.
Port Huron Brewing Co.
Wisconsin Dells, WI

[BrewinLou]

Sorry I need to explain a little further. You will not find a leak on the crowner bar cylinders. You have to take a look at them while running. You will be able to see one side not not coming down as fast as the other. In other words the crowner bar will not come down level. Have you ever put a couple drops of pneumatic oil in any of the air lines leading to the crowner bar cylinders? Next
Put two rows of bottles on in front of the ram, using manual over ride activate the ram so it pushes the two rows all the way out. Then release the ram and over ride the fillhead. Watch very carefully to see it the neck locator moves any of the bottles. If it does you need to adjust your ram forward or backwards. If not, put three rows of bottles on and repeat the above steps watching the crowner bar portion of the neck locator lower over the bottles. Also check the bottom of the plastic neck locator to see if a bottle came out of index and damaged the neck locator. Sometimes there can be bits of plastic hanging off bad enough to cause problems. Finally
Never mind the weep holes on the valves, my bad I was thinking a filling issue for a moment.

Here is a nice parts list with pics... http://www.meheen-mfg.com/MerlinParts.pdf

[lhall]

Back!

Well, we decided to start a line of sour and wild beers, and needed a small bottling line separate from our main bottling line. So I made the plunge and bought a used 4-head 1998 or 1999 Meheen again - thanks Michael at Krebs Brewing. So I am rereading a lot of these posts to try and remember how the Meheen operates. I keep having pretty vivid flashbacks.

Does anyone remember how to put the 1998 machines into manual mode? The interface is not the safe-cracker one, but the one with the small screen and the five or six buttons that say "reset, auto, sani, clean, pulse". And does anyone have the manual that tells you what each manual mode number is?

[GlacierBrewing]

Well, we decided to start a line of sour and wild beers, and needed a small bottling line separate from our main bottling line. So I made the plunge and bought a used 4-head 1998 or 1999 Meheen again - thanks Michael at Krebs Brewing. So I am rereading a lot of these posts to try and remember how the Meheen operates. I keep having pretty vivid flashbacks.

Does anyone remember how to put the 1998 machines into manual mode? The interface is not the safe-cracker one, but the one with the small screen and the five or six buttons that say "reset, auto, sani, clean, pulse". And does anyone have the manual that tells you what each manual mode number is?

Press and hold "auto, SANI, clean" at the same time for about four to five seconds, then push reset. At that point you can activate individual actions be pressing the appropriate number on the keypad followed by enter and the pushing reset to run that action. Call me at 406-883-2595 or email at info@glacierbrewing.com if you have more questions about this.

Prost!
Dave

[sks]

Hi Jamie-
Mine's a 2000. It's got issues that we have overcome. I've modified it with a bar that stands the bottles up straight. I also added CO2 and air ballast tank that helped speed it up. Faster= less fob-over. The main problem we've had with it is lack of replacement parts. I've had to have parts fixed/rebuild locally because proprietary parts are unavailable. Specifically the capping cylinders are an ongoing issue. I've come to know my tool and die guy and stainless
That said, we have run tens of thousands of cases through it successfully over the past 7 years and commonly achieve speeds of 70+ cases/hour.
You are welcome to come bottle with us anytime
Joe Katchever
Pearl Street Brewery
608.784.4832x7