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  • Exploding Keg -

    So we are new to the industry at 1.5 years young. Here is one of those stupid human tricks I don't suggest any one else try. Plastic 1/6th BBL Keg rated to 49 PSI, One Cold Box, and, some really active yeast rated for way more then 49 PSI.

    Again maybe not the best way to store yeast.

    We also have some 13.5 gallon kegs with yeast in them, I hope none of them let go.

    What are others doing to store yeast? I know the Soda Kegs with pressure relief valves. What else is being done?

  • #2
    Not to beat a dead horse, but why are you storing yeast with CO2 pressure on it? You do realize that CO2 will kill your yeast right?

    so... when storing in kegs, I always bleed off pressure as often as possible.

    just glad no one was hurt, these type of incidents can create a major safety hazard.

    I have used the soda kegs and even standard steel kegs. never tried the plastic ones, except firkins.

    How about getting a handy yeast container with proper relief valves?
    Matthew Steinberg
    Exhibit 'A' Brewing Co.
    Framingham, MA USA

    Head Brewer
    Filler of Vessels
    Seller of Liquid
    Barreled Beer Aging Specialist
    Yeast Wrangler
    Microbe Handler
    Malt Slinger
    Hop Sniffer
    Food Eater
    Music Listener


    • #3
      That's one way around buying that expensive spear removal tool.

      Seriously, be careful out there!

      I just bought some kegs and they have a 'burst point' which sounds much better then blowing in two+spear? Scary stuff for sure...I'd go with stainless and maybe dedicate a coupler, removing the check valve and adding an adjustable relief valve on the gas port?

      Thanks for sharing.
      Jeff Rosenmeier (Rosie)
      Chairman of the Beer
      Lovibonds Brewery Ltd
      Henley-on-Thames, Englandshire
      F: LovibondsBrewery
      T: @Lovibonds


      • #4
        Seriously, a 20 quart stainless steel stockpot with a lid is all I've ever used for yeast storage. Cost me $15 at Wal Mart.


        • #5
          or if you do use corney's just keep the prv open, and cover it with foil, the yeast will constantly gas off. Thats what Ive been told and currently do and even the yeast people say that's the best, I don't understand the false premise that yeast containers have to be SEALED brinks. The stainless bucket with lid is also dead simple, its just that Murphy is always around me and somehow it would spill.


          • #6
            +1 for a large stockpot with a lid. Kegs are difficult to keep perfectly sterile. Stockpots, not so much...
            Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--


            • #7
              Right on; stainless steel stockpot. No high-pressure pointy things capable of being launched at your eyeball. Plus, it's a kick to use the same size pot as a Pro for yeast as I had been using as a Homebrewer for boiling wort.


              • #8
                I like clear plastic 22 Qt food storage containers. They are marked in 2L increments and easy to eyeball and clean and the lids snap down but would easily pop before an explosion!
                Big Willey
                "You are what you is." FZ


                • #9
                  kegs are fine for yeast storage, but i would get the kind where the spear is attached by a TC so that you can remove the spear easily each time so you really be sure it gets clean. And yeah, you have to let the yeast breathe, a keg filling coupler with one valve open with a hose attached in a cup of sani works (or however else you want to make an airlock). I'd much rather have the ability to hook a keg up to the racking arm and push yeast in than be dealing with opening up the fermenter and pitching out of a pot through the manway. Not to mention that becomes a lot of yeast to carry up a ladder if you're doing a batch size over 30 bbls or so.


                  • #10
                    When did you harvest your yeast for it to be that active? It seems to me that if you harvested your yeast with enough sugars left to split a keg in two the yeast probably wasn’t ready to be harvested (i.e. you’re getting the early floc'ers).

                    Oh, and we use converted SS kegs as yeast brinks. When you KO the beer, attach a block & bleed (Tee w/ valves) and KO the batch right via the brink. Easy to clean, sani, no spear to worry about, and easy to blowoff any excess pressure. Also a great way to clean your HX after the brew, use the brink as a dosing container and clamp the cap back on for a closed loop. I usually put a sight glass on the return with a sock screen gasket in it to catch any floaties before they make it back into the HX.
                    Click image for larger version

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                    Last edited by Jephro; 05-19-2011, 02:58 PM.
                    Jeff Byrne


                    • #11
                      Are you feeding your yeast in the keg? If your pressure is in excess of 45psi, without feeding, then there are still lots of fermentables left in your slurry and/or your yeast is not stored cold. Ale or lager yeast shouldn't show much ferment at 38F, if at all, right? Excessive attenuation could be due to wild yeast contamination, but this still should not happen at keg cooler temps in a reasonable amount of pitchable time.

                      Be careful with excess pressure! That could take an eye out!

                      We harvest in one of these. I harvest at 14.7psi and let the pressure out of my brink slowly as I harvest.

                      Kevin Davey
                      Chuckanut Brewery
                      Last edited by LongLiveLagers; 05-20-2011, 12:32 AM.


                      • #12
                        we just use regular steel kegs that are cleaned and sanitised on a keg washer.
                        we do soak them in caustic for at least 24hours before hand.
                        13 years in business and we've had no issue.
                        Nom nom nom, beer.