Our crack head cement contractor used this as our in floor drain. As you can see the cement has pulled away from the plasic inlay drain. As you can imagine it is hell keeping it cleaned out and some damn funky smells come out when we spray it out. I have the 1/4 foam backing that I am going to shove down into the crack but was wondering what caulk type material some have you have used to solve the same issue.
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My first choice would be Vulkem. It's a urethane caulk, takes days to set up, but lasts forever and remains flexible. I've removed windows caulked in with it, and I had to carefully cut the Vulkem with a utility knife blade as it adhered so well to both the window frame and the wood, even after five years in the weather. Use a chlorine-based sanitizer before caulking, let the area dry completely, and be sure the caulk adheres completely to both side of the crack.Timm Turrentine
Brewerywright,
Terminal Gravity Brewing,
Enterprise. Oregon.
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Originally posted by TGTimm View PostMy first choice would be Vulkem. It's a urethane caulk, takes days to set up, but lasts forever and remains flexible. I've removed windows caulked in with it, and I had to carefully cut the Vulkem with a utility knife blade as it adhered so well to both the window frame and the wood, even after five years in the weather. Use a chlorine-based sanitizer before caulking, let the area dry completely, and be sure the caulk adheres completely to both side of the crack.Jon Sheldon
Owner/Brewer/Chief Floor Mopper
Bugnutty Brewing Company
www.bugnutty.com
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vulkem?
I was looking at this and googled vulkem.
it looks great except for the part where it says:
For use on exterior applications only. Do not use this product inside an occupied building even if there are no occupants present during use
is there a more suitable version for indoors use?
I am going to talk to the tremco rep and if i get anything interesting, i will write back.
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safety?
the question is what is in the offgasses?
polyurethanes can have isocyanates as a component which are in a similar family to cyanide. Once they have fully reacted off they are inert, but to put people in an enclosed space with it may be a poor idea.
When the listing clearly states:Do not use this product inside an occupied building even if there are no occupants present during use.
Maybe they will say, ventilate and don't occupy for a period of time, but i would be inclined to check first. With information being readily available, there is no excuse not to research before using. CONSULT THE PRODUCT MANUFACTURER BEFORE USING!
reference: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyurethane
Some noteworthy recent efforts have been dedicated to minimizing the use of isocyanates to synthesize polyurethanes, because the isocyanates raise severe toxicity issues. Non-isocyanate based polyurethanes (NIPUs) have recently been developed as a new class of polyurethane polymers to mitigate health and environmental concerns.Fully reacted polyurethane polymer is chemically inert.Liquid resin blends and isocyanates may contain hazardous or regulated components. Isocyanates are known skin and respiratory sensitizers. Additionally, amines, glycols, and phosphate present in spray polyurethane foams present risks.
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Floor coating
I would coat the floor up to the drain. and anchor the drain right before you coat the floor.
call or email with any questions would love to help out anyone in the Brewing Industry
CHEERS!!!!
Chris Klein
541-510-1080
chris@cascadefloors.com
www.cascadefloors.comChris Klein
Cell 541-510-1080
Office (503) 769-6823
WWW.CASCADEFLOORS.COM
chris@cascadefloors.com
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