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  • Jockey Box Help

    I'm working on tap truck that will run on (3) jockey boxes with (2) 3/8th inch coils each. The six faucet shanks will be mounted directly to the exterior wall of the tap truck. The coolers will have two sets of 3/8th inch ice box shanks for each coil. One on the back as usual, and one on the front where the faucet shank usually is. I'm not sure (at the moment) what diameter the internal of the faucet shank is.

    The plan is to mount the coolers directly behind the wall where the faucets are and run jumper lines from the front ice box shanks to the faucets. The jumper lines will be as short as possible to avoid excess warming of the beer.

    Questions:

    What diameter line should I run from the front shank to the faucet? Does it matter what internal diameter the faucet shank is in determining this?

    Will a one or two foot of beer outside the box really F'up the beer? Is that enough time to really over warm it? I realize that times between pours will have an effect on this.

    Does anyone have a better way of doing this? (without refrigeration)

    Thanks

    LiMbTwIsTeR

  • #2
    You should be fine if you insulate the lines from the jockey boxes to the faucets. Cheap foam water pipe insulation is fine--the better the seal, the better.

    3/16" line should work well for your "jumpers". You probably won't be figuring out your CO2 or N2 pressure using formulas--too many variables--so just use "Kentucky Windage"--start with the equilibrium pressure of your beer, and crank it up until you get a good pour. The kegs should also be kept iced--the colder the beer, the lower the equilibrium pressure and the less problems you'll have with over-carbing in the kegs. Don't start pushing the CO2 until you get to the event so the shaking of the beer in transport doesn't contribute to over-carbing.
    Timm Turrentine

    Brewerywright,
    Terminal Gravity Brewing,
    Enterprise. Oregon.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks. I planned on insulating the lines. I hadn't considered icing the kegs. My machine makes 1000lbs a day so I have the capacity to do so. I just need to find something to put the kegs in. The narrower the better. Perhaps a trip to tractor supply is in order.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by LiMbTwIsTeR View Post
        ...I just need to find something to put the kegs in. The narrower the better.....
        35 gal. garbage cans work well. A shorter alternative (easier to lift the kegs into) is what our local feed & seed calls "salt tubs". These have nice rope handles, but don't try to lift one with the keg in it.
        Timm Turrentine

        Brewerywright,
        Terminal Gravity Brewing,
        Enterprise. Oregon.

        Comment


        • #5
          I already have the jockey boxes with shanks built. At some point I may consolidate them into one gigantic cooler, but I need this ready by Saturday. Thanks for the input gentleman.

          Comment


          • #6
            You'll be glad you went with the coils. We have two jockey boxes, one coils, one plate. The plate box almost never gets used anymore. Coils cool much more effectively, and do not require a constant water drain like the plates. Another advantage is less weight if you need to haul the box arund.
            Timm Turrentine

            Brewerywright,
            Terminal Gravity Brewing,
            Enterprise. Oregon.

            Comment


            • #7
              Cold cold cold. You need to keep the beer as cold as possible to keep the beer from foaming. Get some muck tubs, the ones with the rope handles, and fill them with ice around the kegs. Also I think 30 psi is a bit much. At the brewery and festivals we usually only push around 10 - 12 psi. It's more delicate on the beer. It won't foam as much and you maintain carbonation in your product.
              Justin Crawford
              Head Brewer
              Valholl Brewing Co. LLC
              Poulsbo, Washington

              Comment


              • #8
                Success!

                I finished the entire truck an hour before the event it was booked for. I didn't even have time to test it first. (I had a couple hours to clean and trouble shoot once I arrived) I ran short insulated "jumper lines" from the back of the faucet shanks to the coolers. I used 1/2 inch plumbers insulation with zip ties as suggested. The kegs were not in an ice bath, just pulled from the cooler and put on the truck. 23psi on regular Co2 did the trick. They poured like a dream. No waste and a perfect head. I poured two light beers, an imperial ipa, a session ipa, a cider and heff. They all liked the 23 psi. On warmer days I will ice the kegs down. I have a few picks of the truck, none of the guts though...
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Sweet keggerator--but it ain't gonna fit in the man-cave!
                  Timm Turrentine

                  Brewerywright,
                  Terminal Gravity Brewing,
                  Enterprise. Oregon.

                  Comment

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