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bent TC flange just dumped a barrels' worth of beer on the floor.....

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  • bent TC flange just dumped a barrels' worth of beer on the floor.....

    havent used these tanks for a while. didnt notice that the TC flange is bent on the bottom, and didnt notice it when putting the clamp either. the first pic looks bad but its just the angle, second pic shows that there's probably only about 15-20% of the flange is bent. wasnt a problem filing the tank or during fermentation. but closed up the tank with a few points left and it looks like once you hit about 3-4psi you end up breaking the seal. dumped a barrels' worth of beer on the floor.

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    i guess in a technical sense the "correct" method is to cut off the flange and weld a new one on. but that seems like an expensive pain the ass for what looks like a pretty small area.

    so i'm thinking this- get my propane torch out of my plumbing kit, heat the bent area, then put on a red high temp silicone gasket and a random TC fitting, and then just try and crimp/bend it back flush with a C clamp or pair of welding clamps or even vice grip pliers.

    any other ideas?

  • #2
    Cutting and welding is the way to do the job right. Even for a "small" area. Bending it back maybe worth a go if you don't have/can't weld a fitting properly. Don't use any gasket! Silicone might be "high temp", but nowhere near what temperature would be required for any effect on the stainless. I'd skip the heat altogether and try to bend it with some very careful bending moment applied on the outside of the TC flange. Be very careful as you're likely to break the weld at the tank with so much leverage. Otherwise, propane just isn't the right tool for this; MAPP or oxyacetylene are better alternatives. Try to find out how this happened and make adjustments to prevent it.
    Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--

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    • #3
      Hi, if that's a double wall tank it may be strong enough to use something akin to an automotive exhaust spreader. I've fabricated similiar using threaded rod and nuts. The main thing is to use force between the tank and TC fitting. If you pry using a wrench or visegrips, etc. the force would at 90 degrees, putting the stress on the weld. GOOD LUCK!

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      • #4
        a visual is obviously a better explanation. there is no force at all on the tank. its being clamped/pinched back into (hopefully) flush contact with the tc fitting i butt up against it, which will be a matching end cap. the force is bidirectional and opposed, flange against flange, no affect on the tank itself.

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        • #5
          I see, but you won't get it straight pulling it toward a flat surface. There is always a degree of spring, or elastic deformation prior to permanent, or plastic deformation. In other words, even if you bend it parallel to another TC ferrule, the (temporarily) deformed flange will spring back from flat to a degree. Plus the fact that the mating TC flange--being of the same material, thickness, and strength--will bend before the smashed part does. Parts that have been bent are stronger--and therefore harder--to further deform. You could try to compensate by going past parallel with a thicker chunk of metal as a backing plate. Try to use a distributed force instead of concentrated like a vise-grip. Practically speaking, it's not an exact science. Good chance you can bend it back enough to use with caution.
          Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--

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