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Brewery floor coatings for concrete?
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The important thing about SealHard -- which is great stuff -- is that it's a concrete hardener but NOT a floor finish. It will not give you that glossy, shiny look and it does not seal the pores of the cement. For that sort of thing -- shiny & sealed/sanitary -- you want a urethane sealant. Get one specifically rated for harsh chemicals, as you'll be dumping beer, PBW, etc., on it.
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Originally posted by stltom View PostI just spoke with an associate of Frank's who was there when they applied the Seal Hard by Laticrete. They applied 6 coats, did it all to spec, and at best it lasted 4 months, before the aggregate was exposed again. The hot water and chemicals ate right through it. It is working ok in their restaurant with just foot traffic.
So there ya go!
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Self Install Options
We also offer Self Installs. we provide 2 guys for the technical part of install. Brewery supplies 3-4 guys for manual labor. We have done this for Maui Brewing, Haines Brewing and Common Space Brewing.
Email me anytime with questions, Or call. My phone is always on.
Cheers all!!
Chris Klein 541-510-1080
chris@cascadefloors.com
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Seal Hard Results
Originally posted by Frank Trosset View PostWe are about 3 weeks away from installing a product called Seal Hard. Its a concrete sealer, not a floor coating. Everything Ive found on it is impressive. We will be using PBW as well as PAA. Both of those in concentrations under 10% v/v are resisted in an "excellent" level, the sealer does not support microbial growth, it hardens the concrete, its NSF certified and its only $137.50 for 5 gallons (1 gallon covers approx 200 sf). On top of that, you dont have to pay a "professional" to install it.
If anyone is curious Ill post our results once we know how we like the product.
So there ya go!
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[QUOTE=c.r.nevins;203882]Hi. Just wondering how the poly-Crete has held up. Considering using this stuff for a brewery floor Remodel.
Chris
Chris,
It's been installed for 3 years now. For the most part it has stood up great. The area of degradation occurs at the transition of the concrete floor and the thermoset drain channel. We have a trench drain that run the length of our breweryfloor. In the cellar where we go from hot to cold in cleaning the coefficient of thermal expansion is slightly different between the trench material and the concrete, which causes this crack to open. I've been told there is a special urathane that is suppose to bridge this gap and be replaced yearly. I haven't gotten to it yet and have started to realize i need to get t done.
If parts are dropped on the floor from a height, such as a butterfly valve it will chip. But I haven't seen it go all the way through the polycrete, perhaps half the distance. The only slight staining had been in front of the brewhouse diverted plate. Just a bit more brown on top of the red. The floor will scratch if you slide a pallet or anything sharp on it.
In the cooler there has been very little wear and tear.
With those tiny issues, I still like the flooring. I've been very happy with it. I've seen much worse in sealed or epoxy floors.
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Originally posted by woohokie View PostWell, we decided to go with Duraflex's poly concrete coating and had it professionally installed over our new sloped floor. It wasn't cheap, obviously, and while we've open been in operation for 2 months, it's hard to say how it will hold up. For now it's doing great. We went with safety yellow for the color as our brand has yellow in it - pretty bad idea in the end as the floor looks dirty but isn't. The bright color was not the way to go. Oh well live and learn... I'll consider the fact that 99% of the time I never have to use a squeegee, a win.
As usual, thanks for the all help everyone.
Chris
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally posted by TWeber View PostWe had the brewhouse floor re-poured with the correct pitch.
We chose Dur-A-Flex Poly-Crete with a the color fast top coat. All done by professionals. The polyurathane flooring is being applied today as we speak!
We are super strapped for cash, but we did not want to skimp on the flooring or brewing system. Epoxy scares me. Good luck!
Chris
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally posted by Frank Trosset View PostWe are about 3 weeks away from installing a product called Seal Hard. Its a concrete sealer, not a floor coating. Everything Ive found on it is impressive. We will be using PBW as well as PAA. Both of those in concentrations under 10% v/v are resisted in an "excellent" level, the sealer does not support microbial growth, it hardens the concrete, its NSF certified and its only $137.50 for 5 gallons (1 gallon covers approx 200 sf). On top of that, you dont have to pay a "professional" to install it.
If anyone is curious Ill post our results once we know how we like the product.
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Question on the Parker Coating
Originally posted by vinesrushes View PostI'll recommend Parker Coatings Water Resistant Urethane Coating. Here's the spec sheet: http://www.parkercoatings.com/PDF/1015-WRU.pdf
We've had it on our floor since it was poured 3 years ago. Application is a muriatic acid treatment and three coatings of the sealer - can be done by yourself without a problem. It wouldn't hurt to have a bit more texture in the floor but ours is smooth. I'd also seal up the stress cuts with caulk prior to applying this. It holds up extremely well to anything we've thrown at it and hasn't shown any signs of wear - you can run a bobcat over it all day with zero issues. The cost to do a 2,500 sq ft area was probably $800 - I bought extra originally and still have a bit left over.
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Flooring Done Right
If anyone needs anything feel free to call or email me. We travel all over the USA and have done over 80 Breweries 7 of the top 20 Craft Breweries in the nation and i could send you all contact info for everyone.
CHEERS
Chris Klein
541-510-1080 Cell
503-769-6823 office
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Originally posted by vinesrushes View PostI'll recommend Parker Coatings Water Resistant Urethane Coating. Here's the spec sheet: http://www.parkercoatings.com/PDF/1015-WRU.pdf
We've had it on our floor since it was poured 3 years ago. Application is a muriatic acid treatment and three coatings of the sealer - can be done by yourself without a problem. It wouldn't hurt to have a bit more texture in the floor but ours is smooth. I'd also seal up the stress cuts with caulk prior to applying this. It holds up extremely well to anything we've thrown at it and hasn't shown any signs of wear - you can run a bobcat over it all day with zero issues. The cost to do a 2,500 sq ft area was probably $800 - I bought extra originally and still have a bit left over.
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Parker Coatings WRU-1015
I'll recommend Parker Coatings Water Resistant Urethane Coating. Here's the spec sheet: http://www.parkercoatings.com/PDF/1015-WRU.pdf
We've had it on our floor since it was poured 3 years ago. Application is a muriatic acid treatment and three coatings of the sealer - can be done by yourself without a problem. It wouldn't hurt to have a bit more texture in the floor but ours is smooth. I'd also seal up the stress cuts with caulk prior to applying this. It holds up extremely well to anything we've thrown at it and hasn't shown any signs of wear - you can run a bobcat over it all day with zero issues. The cost to do a 2,500 sq ft area was probably $800 - I bought extra originally and still have a bit left over.
Leave a comment:
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Originally posted by jkrautstrunk View PostBump on the brewfloors questions from Tim.
How's it working? Site says five year guarantee, and I'm wondering about having to re-coat.
We're looking at about a 2000sq/ft space and are leasing, so I don't want to huck a bunch of money at the floor - can't imagine we'll be there more than our 5 year lease.
Thanks,
JK
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Bump on the brewfloors questions from Tim.
How's it working? Site says five year guarantee, and I'm wondering about having to re-coat.
We're looking at about a 2000sq/ft space and are leasing, so I don't want to huck a bunch of money at the floor - can't imagine we'll be there more than our 5 year lease.
Thanks,
JK
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