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Keg transportation from cold room to kegerator

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  • Keg transportation from cold room to kegerator

    Hi all,

    My bartender (ahem.. me) is going to need to transport a full keg from the cold room to the kegerator, immediately connect it and start serving beer from it. I am concerned about the jostling/ shaking that will happen during transport and the resulting foam from the tap. Are my concerns valid, and is there a way to mitigate this?



  • #2
    Assuming that you have a properly balanced draft system, you will not have any problems. Just make sure that either your cold room is the same temperature as your kegerator, or the pressure used in the kegerator is good for the temperature of the beer from the cold room. In reality, shaking a keg up from moving it doesn't make it pour extra foamy so long as you have pressure on it. The biggest issue is a draft system set up for a colder temperature than the kegs being put into it. The beer takes a long time to cool down to the kegerator temperature, thus you get foamy pours until it does.


    • #3
      ^^What Jebzter said. Also, you could keep your walk-in cooler a degree or two colder to make the transition even easier. In this scenario, you may have to pour a little more aggressively (ie hold the glass a bit further from the faucet) to allow a bit more co2 breakout and create the expected amount of foam in the glass. But it would avoid the scenario of rising temperatures, which are so often the cause of foam in a draft system.


      • #4
        The biggest problem with moving kegs like this is stirring up sediment from the bottom of the keg. This can take a long time to settle down again. We have all our tap systems set up with series kegs--two kegs/faucet--so we can generally do any re-stocking at closing, allowing any sediment to settle before opening the next day.
        Timm Turrentine

        Terminal Gravity Brewing,
        Enterprise. Oregon.


        • #5
          While I don't daisy-chain myself (and usually filter), I do typically double stack in the cooler for the sediment reason. Once the top one is empty, remove and tap the lower keg, which has had sufficient time to settle back down if needed. Re-stock at your least busy point. Daisy-chain is nice for the staff as they don't have to change kegs as often.

          Take a can of cold beer, shake it Bart Simpson style in a paint shaker, and then tap the sides of the can to dislodge any bubbles that have attached on the imperfections of the can liner, and you can open the can immediately without excessive foaming. Or pop it in the freezer for a few mins to accelerate the re-dissolution of gas into the beer. A keg is a just a big can. If you treat it properly, you wont have any issues at all. Presuming the keg is sealed, there is only two places for the "foam" to go - into the head space, or into the liquid. I think is Pascal, Newton, Henry and Sievert? I forget.


          • #6
            Great responses, thanks everyone! Yes, the cold rooms *should* be at 36, while the kegerator *should* be at 38, so it sounds like I'll be ok.. now the only problem is wheeling a dolly through a full tap room 😉