Make your own GW Kent Coupler

[CascadiaHB]

Hey all,

I would rather not spend $100 on a a GW Kent Keg Washer Coupler (http://www.gwkent.com/stainless-stee...ling-head.html). I feel like I can make this rather easily myself. I have a good drill and a solid vice. Is it as easy as drilling it out to 1/2"? Is there something that I am missing, can I drill it larger than 1/2"?

I am sure there are at least a few of you that have already done this. Any advice?

[BrewerJake]

Take the check ball out and attach valves and a barb to the inlet and outlet

[barleyfreak]

Take the check ball out and attach valves and a barb to the inlet and outlet

Good video from Colorado Boy Brewery on how to do this

https://youtu.be/FDOFsKB6xnk

[CascadiaHB]

I am really more interested in the drilling part of it. The GW Kent has a larger opening. Anybody drill our the coupler?

[mswebb]

I am really more interested in the drilling part of it. The GW Kent has a larger opening. Anybody drill our the coupler?

My 2-cents says just buy one. If you drill one out and there is ever an over-pressure issue with that coupler, you are the only one take responsibility. Stay safe and use one that was built specifically for the purpose.

[GlacierBrewing]

I've been using my "home built" version for decades: take a regular Sanke coupler, remove the check ball assembly and the one-way gas seal. Add two small shut off valves with tail pieces to the two ports of the Sanke. Attach your inlet hose to the vertical port and gas out hose to gas out port and, viola! Build it for around $30 bucks or so. I use this for keg filling as well as on my "home built" keg washer.
My two "home built" cents.

Prost!
Dave

[DrumconrathBrew]

Yeah I'm not seeing where it says the actual coupler is modified. They just put 1/2 barb connections on the vertical and gas ports. That's what I did on my fill and wash couplers. Super easy, no drilling required, and you can regulate your fill back pressure with the ball valve so you get less foam. Because foam is lost product.


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[RodrigoEick]

Looking at the product photo it looks like a standard Micromatic coupler with enlarged hose barbs, nithing diferent that my home made one.

But, I'm interested in the drilling method to accelerate the discharge on the washing cycles on my home made keg washer. Sometime hop particles get stuck there and I have to clean it before continue.

Any tips on this drilling to enlarge the gas opening process?

[BrewinLou]

A standard coupler will do the exact same job. I have a couple Kent specials, I just compared them to ordinary couplers. No difference, the end with the liquid ball check valve is the exact same size as all others, the liquid end with the beer nut is a large opening, but I have seen this on many couplers. Take a regular coupler remove the ball check and the gas check, install beer valves on both and wala.

Joel

[CascadiaHB]

Good to hear from everyone. Over the weekend I took a old coupler and drilled it out. Simply put it on a vice and used a good 1/2" drill then filed it smooth. Sounds like I did not need to do this, many people are saying that they did not do it. I will still give it a shot with cleaning some kegs this week. I am only using this for keg cleaning, not keg filling.

The whole reason I started this is because my DIY keg washer does not empty fast enough. In my 4 min wash cycle I will fill the keg nearly full. It is draining too slowly. Anyone run into this issue?

It only took about 5 minutes to make, so I will see if it works and let you all know.

[CascadiaHB]

Yeah I'm not seeing where it says the actual coupler is modified. They just put 1/2 barb connections on the vertical and gas ports. That's what I did on my fill and wash couplers. Super easy, no drilling required, and you can regulate your fill back pressure with the ball valve so you get less foam. Because foam is lost product.


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It says "• Enlarged opening allowing fast liquid flow." under the description section.

[DrumconrathBrew]

I would imagine that means they use a 1/2" port on the gas side instead of 5/16. To be honest the biggest place where you will find restriction is on the inside where the valve to close off the gas line on the probe is. I would just buy a standard d sankey and take the gasket off the probe and use 1/2" ports. I think you will have a hard time drilling it straight and won't get much additional clearance and might wreck the coupler.

[schmogger]

They are actually different. I have a manual four head DME keg washer and if I mix and match keg washer couplers and standard couplers I will end up with fluid in the non keg washer coupler kegs.

[DrumconrathBrew]

Well, there ya go...either way. I would not drill out a d sankey...I'm sure the "improved" flow is done in casting and not a modification to a standard coupling.


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[CascadiaHB]

They are actually different. I have a manual four head DME keg washer and if I mix and match keg washer couplers and standard couplers I will end up with fluid in the non keg washer coupler kegs.

Thanks for the info schmogger!