gitchegumee
Registered User
Last Activity: Today, 12:19 AM
Joined: 01-11-2003
Location: World-wide
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Don't buy the cheapest equipment. Long term cost of ownership is the right metric. Loss of product and your time are prime considerations. Do buy the valves from reputable manufacturer and reputable supplier who has replacement seals available for reasonable price. 304 is sufficient, 316 is overkill.... -
Don't reinvent the wheel. You do not need a cold box if you have properly cooled python lines. Newer shanks are also cooled with close-coupling to the python glycol. There are other vendors who can help you, but I can highly recommend Micro Matic. They have solid answers.Leave a comment:
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To prevent such carbonation problems, both flow and pressure at the carbonation stone must be measured. You could have caught the issue by noting a lower than usual pressure, even if the flow was correct. Also, when you tear down the BBT, and especially the carbonation stone, be sure to bubble test...Leave a comment:
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Unless you already have type K elsewhere, I'd switch it out for Pt100 RTDs. Less expensive, more accurate, more reliable. As you probably know, thermocouples cannot just be spliced to extend. Special terminal block is required. But first, you must be able to set up your controller. Look for reset...Leave a comment:
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Note to others installing glycol systems: Always install pressure gauge on glycol supply header, just past the pump. Two if you wish to monitor delta P across a strainer. You should know what your glycol pressure is.Leave a comment:
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It's plumbed to have preferential cooling over other tanks, if your diagram has lines relatively proportional. Sounds like you've tried most of the easy diagnoses--although ice takes much longer to melt than you think. Especially if in the shape of a cone in the bottom of a tank. Is this the first...Leave a comment:
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So take off the Triclamp without unscrewing the beer nut! Even easier. The fitting is soft tubing hose barb, through a beer nut, to a TC. You're still using a TC fitting. Don't have to take the beer nut off. But if you want to, then you can take it off to adapt a keg coupler. You aren't losing anything....Leave a comment:
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Yeast propagation vessels are available. There are many techniques to utilize them, and one size doesn't fit all. You need to select a propagation method before you can size your vessel. You may propagate enough for an entire brewlength, or a partial fermenter--using the fermenter as a last propagation...Leave a comment:
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Assuming that your BBTs are outfit with TC, your BBTs should be installed with TC/beer nut fittings. No special equipment, fittings, jumpers.... Just simple beer nuts. Switch between tanks and kegs by moving your hose/beer nut between them. Easy-peasy.Leave a comment:
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#1: Why? Why would you want to do this outside of a larger production brewery, or proprietary strains? You likely have access to very good strains of dry yeast which-besides not requiring oxygenation-also don't need you to do cell counts. Weigh it, and dump it. Then move on to the million other...Leave a comment:
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Seems to me that this site used to be dedicated to sharing knowledge. Now looks like a jobs platform. It didn't help to take away classifieds. I like to know what's on the market. And no; it's not worth signing in to a whole different website for that. Plenty of used equipment sites out there....Leave a comment:
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Carbonate with a loop coming from the side of your tank and into the bottom of your tank. Insert your carbonation stone in a tee run as close to the start of the loop as you can. Certainly before your pump. You can carbonate in a few hours with ease this way.Leave a comment:
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I've been using pneumatic, angle-pattern piston valves. High flow rates, reliable, and bulletproof. Similar to ball valves, they don't clog as solenoid valves tend to. They do however introduce instrument air as another failure mode, but I'm good with that. A manual override can be had by selecting...Leave a comment:
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I hate those threads. They will work with taper threads, most times. Have to use a lot of tape on them to get them to seal. Don't know why those threads are still in use when taper threads are far superior for pipework....Leave a comment:
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