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  • #16
    I made my own keg filler w/shutoff using a vent check valve meant for the gas side of a corny keg. Just buy the vent valve, a corny keg valve, an adapter part to connect the corny valve to a regular threaded piece and you're good. I actually have mine at the end of a 3 foot hose that attaches to the gas out of the keg filling head. The extra line allows me to "hang" the vent check valve on my brite tank while I'm filling. Works like a charm. I get all of my parts from Foxx Equipment.
    Hutch Kugeman
    Head Brewer
    Brooklyn Brewery at the Culinary Institute of America
    Hyde Park, NY

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    • #17
      Originally posted by kugeman
      I made my own ... an adapter part to connect the corny valve to a regular threaded piece ...
      I made something similar but was unable to find the 'adapter part' you wrote about. Do you have a Foxx equipment part #? I had to string a whole bunch of different adapters together to make it work, one I think was custom made too.

      Cheers,
      Jason

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      • #18
        A few thoughts if useful...
        Micromatic makes a wash head that is solid stainless, does not have check valves, nor the bore for the pressure relief. The lack of that would seem to improve cleanability. They are not in the catalog, and if you ask the people they should be able to connect you with the division that has keg parts-same as where you buy keg valve parts and removal tools.

        Another useful device is an adapter from 1.5 inch Triclover to beer thread-i.e. for connecting your beer line to the top of the coupler. This allows triclover valves to be used(ideally 1") which have far better flow than the restrictive Micromatic valves. I have often seen the adapters to male beer thread but I had a hundred machined to female beer thread (much more difficult job.) I would sell them to whomever wants, will have to see what they cost to make.

        As for the outlet vent, I have settled on using the Micromatic valves here and reducing to a 3/16 or max of 1/4 inch outlet hose into a waste bucket. The smaller diameter restricts the flow of beer and especially foam, yet is not much problem for escaping gas. The result is that 1. you can hear from the other room when the keg is full, and 2. when you hit foam or beer, the flow rate slows down greatly, so that while not perfect, it will allow much less beer loss when the keg is full. If this line gets foo foamy, either the beer is too carbonated or you filled too fast-unthreading the vent nut helps get rid of the foam and keep you filling.

        Hope this helps.
        Last edited by Moonlight; 10-16-2009, 09:24 AM.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Moonlight
          A few thoughts if useful...
          Micromatic makes a wash head that is solid stainless, does not have check valves, nor the bore for the pressure relief. The lack of that would seem to improve cleanability. They are not in the catalog, and if you ask the people they should be able to connect you with the division that has keg parts-same as where you buy keg valve parts and removal tools.

          Another useful device is an adapter from 1.5 inch Triclover to beer thread-i.e. for connecting your beer line to the top of the coupler. This allows triclover valves to be used(ideally 1") which have far better flow than the restrictive Micromatic valves. I have often seen the adapters to male beer thread but I had a hundred machined to female beer thread (much more difficult job.) I would sell them to whomever wants, will have to see what they cost to make.

          As for the outlet vent, I have settled on using the Micromatic valves here and reducing to a 3/16 or max of 1/4 inch outlet hose into a waste bucket. The smaller diameter restricts the flow of beer and especially foam, yet is not much problem for escaping gas. The result is that 1. you can hear from the other room when the keg is full, and 2. when you hit foam or beer, the flow rate slows down greatly, so that while not perfect, it will allow much less beer loss when the keg is full. If this line gets foo foamy, either the beer is too carbonated or you filled too fast-unthreading the vent nut helps get rid of the foam and keep you filling.

          Hope this helps.

          simple and yet great idea, just restrict with a small diameter hose........beautiful, thanks.
          www.beerontheriver.com

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          • #20
            I would like to emphasize venting into a bucket, as it seems that if simply venting outward, you are spraying atomized beer to feed mold everywhere in the room.

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            • #21
              Sanke Auto Shut Off Valve for $5-10

              For those just starting out like myself...I didn't want to spend $160 on a GW kent Valve (and they are back ordered as usual) so

              After searching through forums here and trying several VERY expensive options I found plans for this DIY solution.

              Please check it out at:



              You can see a short GIF of it working here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B59...ew?usp=sharing

              (It's not beer in the keg FYI... It's a Carrot Ginger Kombucha)

              I hope it is useful for someone.
              Last edited by jjanes123; 07-07-2016, 05:26 PM.

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              • #22
                Genius. Thanks for info.

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