Steve,
Remember the material your dealing with. Glass is inert but has a very rough surface under a microscope that can entrap chemicals.
Cautic bloom is a surface white film from prolonged exposure to NAOH that you cannot remove, even with acid. You must destroy the bottle.
A standard bottle washer to remove dirt and paper labels initially hits the interior of the bottle with hot water internally to wash out straws, condoms, etc... and loosen dirt (your presoak). I would be very careful about what "detergents" you put near the glass. Bottlewashing additives are typically chelating surfactants designed to help lift the dirt and yet come off during rinsing.
The second bottlewasher stage is a series of sprays and submergings in 170-180 F (76-82 C) degree 2-3% chlorinated NAOH solutions that usually contains additives. This may not be an issue if you are not dealing with paper labels. The issue here is using heat, chemical energy and mechanical energy to come up with a commercially clean bottle. Acid solutions are not used in commercial bottlewashers that I am aware of.
I have a system using a hot water soak (label and dirt soak removal) followed by a 3 minute interior wash using a bottlerack above a heated tank, followed by a hotwater rinse and visual inspection. It is very effective but I am not asking 4000 bottles/shift out of it. I guess my point is be very careful about putting a variety of detergents/chemicals anywhere near glass that is to be sold back to the public
Remember the material your dealing with. Glass is inert but has a very rough surface under a microscope that can entrap chemicals.
Cautic bloom is a surface white film from prolonged exposure to NAOH that you cannot remove, even with acid. You must destroy the bottle.
A standard bottle washer to remove dirt and paper labels initially hits the interior of the bottle with hot water internally to wash out straws, condoms, etc... and loosen dirt (your presoak). I would be very careful about what "detergents" you put near the glass. Bottlewashing additives are typically chelating surfactants designed to help lift the dirt and yet come off during rinsing.
The second bottlewasher stage is a series of sprays and submergings in 170-180 F (76-82 C) degree 2-3% chlorinated NAOH solutions that usually contains additives. This may not be an issue if you are not dealing with paper labels. The issue here is using heat, chemical energy and mechanical energy to come up with a commercially clean bottle. Acid solutions are not used in commercial bottlewashers that I am aware of.
I have a system using a hot water soak (label and dirt soak removal) followed by a 3 minute interior wash using a bottlerack above a heated tank, followed by a hotwater rinse and visual inspection. It is very effective but I am not asking 4000 bottles/shift out of it. I guess my point is be very careful about putting a variety of detergents/chemicals anywhere near glass that is to be sold back to the public
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