Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 75

Thread: glycol beer line system for nano fermenters

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vincentown, New Jersey
    Posts
    85

    glycol beer line system for nano fermenters

    is there a reason why a smaller (compared to a chiller dedicated to fermenters/brites) chiller normally used for chilling beer lines (such as this http://www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-...-MMPP4302.html) wouldn't work for for nano-sized fermentations, say 2-3 bbl? if the cooling load covers what you need (3400 btu/hr in this case) would it work? or are the workings of the chiller not the same?

    $2500 is a lot easier ot swallow than 8k.

    thanks guys

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    99
    that is precisely how I setup or chilling capacity. We have three 1/3 hp's cooling 3 - 3BBL fermenters, and a single 3/4 hp chilling a pair of 10BBL fermenters.

    FYI the chillers from FOXX equipment are cheaper than micromatic. I have some from each and the build quality on the micromatic are better but they operate exactly the same.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Marquette, Michigan
    Posts
    69
    I believe Premier Stainless uses them with their, smaller, 3BBL and under brights,and uni-tanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vincentown, New Jersey
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by CopperKettle
    that is precisely how I setup or chilling capacity. We have three 1/3 hp's cooling 3 - 3BBL fermenters, and a single 3/4 hp chilling a pair of 10BBL fermenters.

    FYI the chillers from FOXX equipment are cheaper than micromatic. I have some from each and the build quality on the micromatic are better but they operate exactly the same.
    is there a reason why you are using 1 for each fermenter @ 3bbl, but one for 2 10 bbl? the chiller load to fermenter size does not seem equal-

    thanks for the response!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    99
    it's never going to be a perfect BTU/bbl and there isn't any hard and fast rule anyway. If you undersize the chiller it might take a long time to cool down from 70F -> 34F but I doubt you'd have trouble controlling fermentation temps unless you SEVERELY undersize the chiller, like a 1/3hp on a 20BBL or something crazy.

    It really came down to ease of setup, with a single fermenter on a chiller there is no additional parts you need. On the 1/3hp chillers from micromatic there is not an additional circulation pump location anyway, they are too small so you CANNOT run two fermenters from the 1/3hp chiller. The larger draft line chillers come with 2nd pump locations from the factory. With this setup you have three thermostats, the factory installed one controls the bath temp at a constant level (say 28F), you have to add two additional thermostats to control the circulation pump motors to change the fermenter temp.
    Last edited by CopperKettle; 01-02-2012 at 01:44 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vincentown, New Jersey
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by CopperKettle
    it's never going to be a perfect BTU/bbl and there isn't any hard and fast rule anyway. If you undersize the chiller it might take a long time to cool down from 70F -> 34F but I doubt you'd have trouble controlling fermentation temps unless you SEVERELY undersize the chiller, like a 1/3hp on a 20BBL or something crazy.

    It really came down to ease of setup, with a single fermenter on a chiller there is no additional parts you need. On the 1/3hp chillers from micromatic there is not an additional circulation pump location anyway, they are too small so you CANNOT run two fermenters from the 1/3hp chiller. The larger draft line chillers come with 2nd pump locations from the factory. With this setup you have three thermostats, the factory installed one controls the bath temp at a constant level (say 28F), you have to add two additional thermostats to control the circulation pump motors to change the fermenter temp.
    ok that makes sense- i was wondering what different 1 or 2 pumps would make. so a 2 pump chiller would be able to cool to fermenters, but i would need another chiller for a brite tank?

    would you not be able to use solenoid valves on multiple fermenters with one pump? like making a splitter for the glycol line, with a thermostat controlling the valves? i've seen people do that with water cooling, curious if it would work for the glycol chillers.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    99
    it might work but I would worry about the circulation pump not being able to keep up, if you give it a try let us know. The pumps are rated to ~80GPH which seems like it might be ok for two smaller tanks but who knows. Micromatic makes a big 1hp chiller that has three pumps, I'm considering it for doing 2 - 10 BBL fermenters and a jacketed 20BBL bright. I really don't want to invest in a permanent glycol plumbing setup until I move to a more permanent location. I might not even be where I am a year from now.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vincentown, New Jersey
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by CopperKettle
    it might work but I would worry about the circulation pump not being able to keep up, if you give it a try let us know. The pumps are rated to ~80GPH which seems like it might be ok for two smaller tanks but who knows. Micromatic makes a big 1hp chiller that has three pumps, I'm considering it for doing 2 - 10 BBL fermenters and a jacketed 20BBL bright. I really don't want to invest in a permanent glycol plumbing setup until I move to a more permanent location. I might not even be where I am a year from now.
    totally understandable- i was looking at the 2 hp models from pro refrigeration and the 8 k just isn't going to happen at the point- this would be a much easier way to use jacketed SS-if not its going to be plastic fermenters with a water cooling system.

    the quote i got as far as BTU usage for 2 3bbl fermenters and a 3 bbl brite was 6000 btu- but i was also going to try and use the chiller as a pre chiller for the water for the heat exchanger. looks like i'll probably need atleast a 1/2 hp or maybe 3/4. could also save some juice by going with a non jacketed brite in freezer.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    99
    What they quote you is just "ideal", you can get by with significantly less if you are willing to wait for the tank to crash cool 30F in 12-15 hours instead of 4-5.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vincentown, New Jersey
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by CopperKettle
    What they quote you is just "ideal", you can get by with significantly less if you are willing to wait for the tank to crash cool 30F in 12-15 hours instead of 4-5.
    ok cool i'll keep that in mind- was a little worried about killing the chiller. overnight works for me... only downside is maybe the yeast won't drop out as fast if its a slower crash?

    this seems like a newb question but why does everyone (atleast from what i've read) crash in the fermenter before the brite? can you not transfer into the brites @ say 60 and crash to 34 overnight in there?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Louisville, Kentucky, USA
    Posts
    272
    Quote Originally Posted by defenestrate
    ok cool i'll keep that in mind- was a little worried about killing the chiller. overnight works for me... only downside is maybe the yeast won't drop out as fast if its a slower crash?

    this seems like a newb question but why does everyone (atleast from what i've read) crash in the fermenter before the brite? can you not transfer into the brites @ say 60 and crash to 34 overnight in there?
    Easier and more accurate to harvest yeast from a cone than a dish bottom tank. If your beer is properly spunded in the fermenter, you will save on carbonation and your beer will have a finer bead, tighter head.
    Cheers!
    David R. Pierce

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vincentown, New Jersey
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by HinduKush
    Easier and more accurate to harvest yeast from a cone than a dish bottom tank. If your beer is properly spunded in the fermenter, you will save on carbonation and your beer will have a finer bead, tighter head.
    this would only be feasable if the fermenter was capable and set up to hold pressure, correct?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Louisville, Kentucky, USA
    Posts
    272
    Quote Originally Posted by defenestrate
    this would only be feasable if the fermenter was capable and set up to hold pressure, correct?
    Yes, Correct.
    Cheers!
    David R. Pierce

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Vincentown, New Jersey
    Posts
    85
    Quote Originally Posted by HinduKush
    Yes, Correct.
    the 2-3 bbl sizes that i've been looking at (from stout tanks) do not have jacketed ones that have pressure lids, only non jacketed- doesn't make much sense to me.... but i'll keep looking around.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by CopperKettle
    that is precisely how I setup or chilling capacity. We have three 1/3 hp's cooling 3 - 3BBL fermenters, and a single 3/4 hp chilling a pair of 10BBL fermenters.

    FYI the chillers from FOXX equipment are cheaper than micromatic. I have some from each and the build quality on the micromatic are better but they operate exactly the same.
    CopperKettle or others, are you able to bring the 3 BBL fermenters down to freezing using the 1/3 HP chiller-- or is this only used to maintain fermenting temperatures? I see you mentioned overnight, so is that what it takes you with 1/3 HP and 3 BBL?

    Thanks!

Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •