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1" solenoid recommendation

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  • 1" solenoid recommendation

    There are a variety of red hat 1" solenoids offered at grainger. What is everybody using? I have a small chiller for two 7bbl fv's and the in and out for the glycol is 1" thread. I assume 1"pvc to 1" solenoids to 1" braided vinyl would be best. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks for your time.

    J

  • #2
    For a 7 bbl fermenter you can likely get by with a 3/4" solenoid valve, which are quite a bit less expensive than 1" valves.

    We offer some solenoid valves on our webstore: http://www.prochillerparts.com/index...id-valves.html There are less expensive options out there. Make sure you get valves that don't require a pressure drop across the valve to operate.

    Good Luck,

    Jim
    Pro Refrigeration Inc

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    • #3
      Anyone have any experience with solenoid valves from EHCOTECH (AKA Valves4Projects)?

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      • #4
        We use them for controlling glycol to our fermenters. Have been running them for 8 months now with no issues. I did go with the stainless body valves and they are all 24vac so the electrical inspector has no complaints. If you do go with 110v valves, keep in mind they are not UL listed, only CE listed (European equivalent) which means an inspector will A) require them to be NEMA rated watertight on all electrical connections and cabling, B) Not approve them without UL listing. None of those problems using 24vac valves. Overall we have found them to be a great value. We ordered a few extra just in case one crapped out, but have not needed them yet...

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        • #5
          ECHOTECH has been my go to for solenoid valves for years. If you know what it is you're looking for Esa has the best prices around and all his parts (that I've used) are UL listed. The only problems I've had with them is when I've ordered the wrong item.

          Cheers
          Manuel

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          • #6
            Yes, a 3/4" valve would be plenty big. We use ASCO valves, just make sure like Jim said, get the ones with zero pressure differential. Put a strainer somewhere in the lines before the valves to catch any trash that would cause the valve to stick open. I've never had any problems with electrical inspectors requiring them to be UL listed, but your results may vary. And I would not use PVC - use copper from the tank to the valve, and make sure the weight of the piping and hose is supported by something other than the tank nipples. PVC will break some day, just a matter of time.
            Linus Hall
            Yazoo Brewing
            Nashville, TN
            www.yazoobrew.com

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            • #7
              Thanks guys. Much appreciated.

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