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  • ProLine Manual Keg Filler

    Anyone else out there have issues with the ProLine Manual Keg Filler from GW Kent? I've had several of the fobbers/automatic beer stop pieces that have cracked. I was sent replacements but they cracked too. Any one else having this problem?




    Cheers,
    Mike

  • #2
    Ours has cracks that I can see inside, but it still works. If I ever have to replace it, I may wrap a pool noodle around that part for protection!

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    • #3
      Kevin:

      Did they send you a replacement fobber? I got replacements, but they cracked too. They won't send me anymore. They want me to spend another $75 to replace one fobber. I spoke with them on the phone and they basically implied that it was user error.

      I did like them when they worked...


      Cheers,
      Mike

      Comment


      • #4
        are you getting cracking from dropping them or from soaking in chemicals for too long? I have been using one for almost a year with no issues. I haven't dropped it (yet) and rinse and sanitize it before and after use. I don't let it soak in caustic which could lead to hairline crazing and cracking....
        Scott LaFollette
        Fifty West Brewing Company
        Cincinnati, Ohio

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        • #5
          Simplicity

          Why not just use a clear tubing from the gas in/out port to a sanitary vavle with a blow off hose. Same concept, just no plastic to break. You may want to replace the tubing every half year but that's like $0.10 (if that) for that amount of tubing. I will post pictures of my set up tomorrow. Cheers.
          Last edited by Trickster; 02-26-2013, 10:58 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by yap View Post
            are you getting cracking from dropping them or from soaking in chemicals for too long? I have been using one for almost a year with no issues. I haven't dropped it (yet) and rinse and sanitize it before and after use. I don't let it soak in caustic which could lead to hairline crazing and cracking....
            Scott:

            I've been taking the fobber part off and placing in a small bucket. I submerge them in 140 degree water with a little bit of caustic for about 5 minutes. Then rinse and set aside till I'm ready to use. Before using, I just spritz a little PAA on them.


            Cheers,
            Mike

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Trickster View Post
              Why not just use a clear tubing from the gas in/out port to a sanitary vavle with a blow off hose. Same concept, just no plastic to break. You may want to replace the tubing every half year but that's like $0.10 (if that) for that amount of tubing. I will post pictures of my set up tomorrow. Cheers.
              That's what I did at the previous brewery that I worked at. But it is nice having the keg stop filling when its full.


              Cheers,
              Mike

              Comment


              • #8
                Filling the kegs

                Just bought four of these...with a 4 port manifold..so I can fill a bit quicker...got a question..
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                I was wondering..if you guys just fill the keg upright? Or upside down..and if you do it upside down do you flip the parts around, (like the one on the far right) and fill through the usual c0 inlet of the coupler
                I understand fillin upright is better for foaming and what not..


                Also whats the other valve on the Y for? The side on the Y thats not plastic

                thanks!

                Comment


                • #9
                  I use them all the time, work great and no complaints. As mentioned above don't leave the plastic part in chemicals or they will crack. The other valve on the Y is so that when the little ball stops the flow when the keg is full you can remove the coupler from the full keg, place it on the next empty keg to fill then open that valve which releases the pressure holing the little ball at the top of the plastic fob and then you can start filling the next keg.
                  Luch Scremin
                  Engine 15 Brewing Co.
                  luch at engine15 dot com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The other valve is to relieve the CO2 pressure before you introduce the beer.

                    We pressurize our clean/sanitized kegs to about 5-7 PSI with CO2 as the last step in cleaning. Snap the coupler on, relieve the pressure through that little valve, close it, open the beer valve, and Bob's your uncle until the fobber trips and your keg is full. Close the beer valve (DO NOT forget this step...) remove the coupler and your all set for a rinse, sanitize, cap, etc. It becomes second nature.

                    Don't know about filling upside down. We had a fancy M&F at a place I used to work at and that machine filled them upside down. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but getting that coupler on an upside down keg is going to be a major PIA for the operator. If your distributor wants them that way or you have a Vaculift or something I say try it out and report back with your results. Might be less of a PIA than flipping a full keg.

                    -Mike

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                    • #11
                      thank sirs..

                      Illl probably just do it the normal way...put the manifold on two legs with sometype of hook on both sides and let the hoses drop down. (or put those hooks on the wall)..if there is really no reason to flip kegs around...not going build a structure to put the kegs flipped around if there is no point...just that in our old brewery we used to fill them upside down..on a type of metal structure...with normal couplers..not this fancy ones.

                      mike.. The instructions from kent, say to let the c02 come out of the valve body (which i assume is the plastic thingy) and the keg will begin filling when the pressure of the beer is greater than that of the keg...I am assuming you are opening that other valve just to bleed it quicker and not wait till the c02 comes out of the little hole..

                      As fas as cleaning..ill probably just recirc caustic... grant-pump-manifold-couplers-grant.... and remove the plastic thingy in this process...will it crack with just a couple minutes of contact? or it has cracked cuz of prolonged contact??

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                      • #12
                        oh and forgot to ask... manual also says to put bleeder point up...but most of my kegs are 1/6..just tested it ..and the y only fits horizontally....is that an issue?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jrpragnell View Post
                          oh and forgot to ask... manual also says to put bleeder point up...but most of my kegs are 1/6..just tested it ..and the y only fits horizontally....is that an issue?
                          Reviving an older thread but has it been an issue at all with it horizontal/have you had to use the "beer thread cap"? Just ordered 3 of the Prolines today and probably have 75%+ of our beer going to sixtels.

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                          • #14
                            I've used it to fill 1/6bbls. I can get the bleeder to sit a bit above horizontal. No issues filling.
                            Prost!
                            Eric Brandjes
                            Cole Street Brewery
                            Enumclaw, WA

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by goldstein114 View Post
                              Reviving an older thread but has it been an issue at all with it horizontal/have you had to use the "beer thread cap"? Just ordered 3 of the Prolines today and probably have 75%+ of our beer going to sixtels.
                              As long as it is above horizontal you'll be fine. The reason it's supposed to point up is so that the ball inside doesn't roll to the end and cut off flow prematurely.

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