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Thread: what to do for our brewery floor???? anybody been here before??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Geneva
    Posts
    9

    what to do for our brewery floor???? anybody been here before??

    Hi,

    I'm sure someone has an answer to this question; I am opening a nano-brewery in a 1910 downtown space I am renting for a minimum of three years. It is a first floor space with all wooden floors that are in decent condition, the landlord does not want me to be putting anything down on the floor that will not be able to be removed with out a lot of difficulty, like cement. The brew room is about 26' by 8', we will be cutting square box drains in between the floor joist. I have been told not to use tiles because if and when the wood gets wet the tiles will buckle and it will all start to fall apart. I am planning on using the sturdiest highest grade linoleum but am nervous about this approach as well.

    Any in site into this matter will be greatly appreciated,
    thanks a lot,
    Victor

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Great Falls, Montana
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by VictorInGeneva View Post
    Hi,

    I'm sure someone has an answer to this question; I am opening a nano-brewery in a 1910 downtown space I am renting for a minimum of three years. It is a first floor space with all wooden floors that are in decent condition, the landlord does not want me to be putting anything down on the floor that will not be able to be removed with out a lot of difficulty, like cement. The brew room is about 26' by 8', we will be cutting square box drains in between the floor joist. I have been told not to use tiles because if and when the wood gets wet the tiles will buckle and it will all start to fall apart. I am planning on using the sturdiest highest grade linoleum but am nervous about this approach as well.

    Any in site into this matter will be greatly appreciated,
    thanks a lot,
    Victor
    Victor, I opened a 10bbl brewery on wood floors in a 1913 3 story building. We built a new sloped floor on top of the existing floor. The product I used was a 2 part epoxy with plastic flakes broadcasted in it, then sealed with 2 layers of urethane. We have only been operating for 7 months and we have had to have the installer come back to redo around the drains because water was making the wood expand and the epoxy floor was cracking out because the installer didn't properly seal the product into the floor drain. We had to cut out the damaged floor and laid cement board in place of the plywood. Then, we sanded the cement board to slope it into the drains and had the product reapplied and wrapped into the drain. Its been only 2 months, but so far so good. After saying all of that, I wouldnt use this flooring system if I had to do it again. The product is so thin that if you dropped a keg or something heavy on it, it would dent and expose the wood beneath. One product I would look into is rubber flooring, about 1/2" thick that they weld together to create a seamless water tight floor. PM me if you have any questions!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    53

    sheet goods

    One of the products that comes in sheets and is welded together is ProtectAll. We just installed it in a restaurant kitchen over late 1800's wood flooring system and so far so good but we have only had it in place for 6 weeks so time will tell.

    I understand that epoxy flooring systems are not a good fit for older wooden floors because the inherent flex in the floor will crack the epoxy and render it useless.

    Tile is also not a good choice as the flex in the floor joists will crack the grout and let water beneath the tile. Same result as epoxy.

    If you can find a pourable surface that will flex then you could use that but you would have to build up a subfloor above the existing to create slope and protect the historic floor from damage.

    Good luck, I'm sure the building is great.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Sublimity, OR
    Posts
    65

    Flooring over wood

    I would install a 1/4-3/8th thick Urethane with an epoxy top coat. Under that i would use fiberglass to bond to the wood. Where are you located? State and City?

    www.cascadefloors.com

    Chris Klein
    Cell # 541-510-1080

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    natchez
    Posts
    48
    Chris

    I'm in the same situation and I'm curious what the urethane would look like once complete? What is the thought on walls around the brewhouse area

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Bainbridge Island, WA
    Posts
    747
    Quote Originally Posted by VictorInGeneva View Post
    Hi,

    I'm sure someone has an answer to this question; I am opening a nano-brewery in a 1910 downtown space I am renting for a minimum of three years. It is a first floor space with all wooden floors that are in decent condition, the landlord does not want me to be putting anything down on the floor that will not be able to be removed with out a lot of difficulty, like cement. The brew room is about 26' by 8', we will be cutting square box drains in between the floor joist. I have been told not to use tiles because if and when the wood gets wet the tiles will buckle and it will all start to fall apart. I am planning on using the sturdiest highest grade linoleum but am nervous about this approach as well.

    Any in site into this matter will be greatly appreciated,
    thanks a lot,
    Victor
    Brewery floors are wet almost all the time. Just remember that.
    Russell Everett
    Co-Founder / Head Brewer
    Bainbridge Island Brewing
    Bainbridge Island, WA

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Enterprise, Oregon
    Posts
    1,905
    Since you specifically state that "the landlord does not want me to be putting anything down on the floor that will not be able to be removed with out a lot of difficulty", I'd look at something like poly roof membrane or pond liner. This are made from a fiber-reinforced HDPE, and glue-welded together in place. It's fairly easy to form a curb at the walls/posts/etc, and the membranes are not adhered to the substrate.

    If you are not moving heavy equipment (fermenters, etc) on casters, this should work very well. Be sure to counter-flash the curbs to the walls/etc, and you should have minimal problems with water getting under the membrane.

    Consult a roofing contractor or pond installer in your area about these membranes.
    Timm Turrentine

    Brewerywright,
    Terminal Gravity Brewing,
    Enterprise. Oregon.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Fargo, ND
    Posts
    27
    I would do what TGT said, but pour sloped concrete over that. It's essentially how you make a shower pan in a tiled shower. When the concrete cracks, there's still the membrane to shed water. and if they ever want it out they can simply bust it up and pick chunks up off the rubber membrane.


    Aaron
    Junkyard Brewing Co.
    Moorhead M.N.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Geneva
    Posts
    9

    Thumbs up Thanks everyone for the positive responses, really appreciate it!

    Has anyone tried pool liner or poly roof membrane for flooring? Putting the concrete down would be a good addition just because I am worried about the liner or roof membrane tearing. Thanks for the comments, love the help.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Fargo, ND
    Posts
    27
    I would call up a company that does that sort of work (on pools etc) and just get their opinion on whether it would work. I've found that a lot of companies get excited to be a part of a brewery project, even if it's just giving advice. Report back if you have any findings please.


    Aaron
    Junkyard Brewing Co.
    Moorhead M.N.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Enterprise, Oregon
    Posts
    1,905
    If you go the concrete-over-poly pan route, be sure to get someone experienced in building pools/shower pans. The floor drain that goes through the concrete is a special design, with a second set of holes to catch and drain any water that gets under the concrete.

    And let us know how it works out!
    Timm Turrentine

    Brewerywright,
    Terminal Gravity Brewing,
    Enterprise. Oregon.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    60

    Floors?

    Quote Originally Posted by VictorInGeneva View Post
    Hi,

    I'm sure someone has an answer to this question; I am opening a nano-brewery in a 1910 downtown space I am renting for a minimum of three years. It is a first floor space with all wooden floors that are in decent condition, the landlord does not want me to be putting anything down on the floor that will not be able to be removed with out a lot of difficulty, like cement. The brew room is about 26' by 8', we will be cutting square box drains in between the floor joist. I have been told not to use tiles because if and when the wood gets wet the tiles will buckle and it will all start to fall apart. I am planning on using the sturdiest highest grade linoleum but am nervous about this approach as well.

    Any in site into this matter will be greatly appreciated,
    thanks a lot,
    Victor
    Victor,

    I'm opening a 3.5 bbl nano in a similar downtown building with wooden floors. How did it work out for you? I'd love to hear your advise and see some pics. Steve

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Sublimity, OR
    Posts
    65

    Flooring

    Feel Free to email or call me.

    Chris Klein 541-510-1080
    chris@cascadefloors.com

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