Our brewery makes a 7% Scottish ale using WLP028 Edinburgh Scottish Ale yeast. I use Super Moss in the kettle, Clarity Ferm in the fermenter, and I cold crash at 33 degrees Farenheit for three days. It still ends up being very turbid and a nightmare to filter. Shouldn't all of these processes in conjunction resolve colloidal haze? Any thoughts? I'm considering using Wyeast Scottish Ale yeast instead.
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Don't think it's yeast
Is your wort to your kettle bright? Check your calcium levels--should have ~80-100ppm. Could also be beta glucan issues if you use oatmeal or some other such grain. Is your beer microbiologically sound? Of course it could be your yeast, but I would check elsewhere first. Good luck!Phillip Kelm--Palau Brewing Company Manager--
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I didn't think it was the yeast strain. Wort is bright into kettle. Calcium is probably closer to 50 ppm. The grain bill contains 8% Crystal Rye (137.5#). Could the rye really be causing a beta-glucan issue? Our other beers finish pretty bright, so I ruled out microbiological causes.Tim Schnars II
Brewmaster/Chief Zymurgist
Meadowlark Brewing
117 S. Central Ave.
Sidney, MT 59270
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What are your other yeast strains? That yeast is only a medium floc, it will take more time than normal to clear up. Also check your Zn levels, had a similar problem with a pilsner yeast, upped the yeast nutrient, and it worked much better. Also use biofine clear or nalco 1072 as well, it is very good for yeast.
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Our only other primary yeast is WLP090 San Diego Super, so it's highly flocculant. I can double the Servomyces I use, and try using WLP028 in a beer without adjuncts. I filter with Becopad filter sheets down to 1-2µ. I suppose that I could switch up to 2-3µ for the Scotch ale, as well. I will experiment adding Ca as well. Thanks for the suggestions!Tim Schnars II
Brewmaster/Chief Zymurgist
Meadowlark Brewing
117 S. Central Ave.
Sidney, MT 59270
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Are you getting a good hot break and cold break? You could try upping the kettle finings. I had a few issues with chill haze. I moved my plate and frame filter as close to the FV as possible. Sometimes we had some long hose runs, and the beer can warm up in the hoses as the filtration slows, causing the chill haze to form post filter. I also set my chiller settings a little lower. So I'm able to get my FVs down to 30. Even a few degrees can help.
There's always filtration aids like PVPP. And upping the Ca is probably not going to hurt.
Cheers,
Mike
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Originally posted by jebzter View PostAlso check your Zn levels, had a similar problem with a pilsner yeast, upped the yeast nutrient, and it worked much better.
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Nothing I have seen flocs like Super San Diego. Do not try to compare other yeasts to it. I used to use Cali 001 and they are not in the same ball park when it comes to flocing. Just saying your expectations might be skewed using the mother of all flocers. The Cali would take days to get to filtration levels and still be full of a lot more cells.Joel Halbleib
Partner / Zymurgist
Hive and Barrel Meadery
6302 Old La Grange Rd
Crestwood, KY
www.hiveandbarrel.com
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Originally posted by MPKill View PostMatt:
If you don't mind my asking, what zinc nutrient are you using?
Cheers,
Mike
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Super Moss Issues
Originally posted by SeattleBrewer View PostAt a brewery I spent some time with, we were using whirlfloc T and switched to super moss. We instantly had turbid it's issues. Switched back to whirlfloc T and beer went Brite again. May be something to try. Cheers!
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Originally posted by jebzter View PostWhat are your other yeast strains? That yeast is only a medium floc, it will take more time than normal to clear up. Also check your Zn levels, had a similar problem with a pilsner yeast, upped the yeast nutrient, and it worked much better. Also use biofine clear or nalco 1072 as well, it is very good for yeast.
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